Technical Today the front electric passenger window on my "new" GP gave up the ghost

[AnthonyH]

It decided to just go down and stay down. Hmmm. After some digging around I found a post from Varescrazy mentioning the earth cables on the drivers side door hinge, so that's first port of call. The motor is still working and it won't go up from either passenger or driver side so it seems to be lacking an earth. I also found the circuit board posted by Bernievarian, the worst case scenario is to put 12V through the pins with a spare battery, get the window back up and then disconnect it. Will see how it goes tomorrow, thankfully its not raining here tonight...

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[AnthonyH]

I had a feeling this was going to be a major problem. I got the door hinge connector off the drivers side and checked the wires, there's nothing out of place that I could see. I did the same on the passenger side and same there, nothing out of place. The switch and pins looks ok from the outside. There's no charring or bent wires, nothing at all...

So I connected pins 2 and 5 on the window switch to a spare battery and got the window up.

The problem I have now is that I can't get the passenger side wire connector back in, I really don't want to force it, but I've pressed hard over and over and it isn't interested in going back in. Does anyone have a trick?

Pic of problem.

 

[bun]

I had a similar problem on my bravo (uses the same door connectors) one of the female pins wasn't seated correctly. I had to pull the rubber boot down, cut the cable tie holding all the wiring into the connector and there's a release clip up inside the connector. It all pops forward out of the housing after that and you can inspect the cable and connections from the rear. Reseat if necessary. As a side note my live feed to the window was corroded at the back so my window didn't work at all. It wasn't obvious from the front as the female side is below the surface of the connector. It blew the control unit in the regulator so had to replace that as well.

 

[AnthonyH]

I had a similar problem on my bravo (uses the same door connectors) one of the female pins wasn't seated correctly. I had to pull the rubber boot down, cut the cable tie holding all the wiring into the connector and there's a release clip up inside the connector. It all pops forward out of the housing after that and you can inspect the cable and connections from the rear. Reseat if necessary. As a side note my live feed to the window was corroded at the back so my window didn't work at all. It wasn't obvious from the front as the female side is below the surface of the connector. It blew the control unit in the regulator so had to replace that as well.

Thanks for the info! I'd never had guessed there was a release clip hidden in there

 

[AndyRKett]

The problem I have now is that I can't get the passenger side wire connector back in, I really don't want to force it, but I've pressed hard over and over and it isn't interested in going back in. Does anyone have a trick?

Pic of problem.

View attachment 437654

you shouldn't have to force it. you get it all lined up, the white part of the connector needs pulling back a little further to my eyes. Then you use the white clip as a lever which pulls the plug in as you close it up.

On old cars the buttons would act as a way of switching round the wires going to the motor. More modern cars just send the signal to the body computer or door module and that takes care of the actual movement of the window. I don't think the GP is posh enough to have a door module just for this but it may be a relay somewhere behind the dash or a broken wire inside the door. If someone has a wiring diagram I can probably point out some places to look

 

[AnthonyH]

you shouldn't have to force it. you get it all lined up, the white part of the connector needs pulling back a little further to my eyes. Then you use the white clip as a lever which pulls the plug in as you close it up.

I've just had a go at levering it using the white clip, but its still resistant, i'll give that another go later and if its still not working take the cable tie off and have a look there.

On old cars the buttons would act as a way of switching round the wires going to the motor. More modern cars just send the signal to the body computer or door module and that takes care of the actual movement of the window. I don't think the GP is posh enough to have a door module just for this but it may be a relay somewhere behind the dash or a broken wire inside the door. If someone has a wiring diagram I can probably point out some places to look

I've attached the circuit diagram. If you look at H050 you'll see some little up and down arrows, I used them to identify pins 2 and 5 on the passenger door switch that needed +ve and -ve from the spare battery.

As neither the passenger nor driver switch is working for upwards, it looks like the problem is going to be in the drivers side as it looks like the circuit is coming from there.

 

[AndyRKett]

so check the 20A fuse F85 first and foremost, this is the fuse just for the passenger window with F86 covering the driver's side, I suspect the problem may be that.

Then the wires go to the drivers side switch if there is a fault in the drivers door switch that will stop the window from working completely, and the earth for the passenger electric window is actually off the drivers side door switch at C015.

you can bypass the drivers side electric window switch by bridging pin 10 and pin 12 to pin 11 looking at that. this will ground pins 1 and 6 on the passenger side switch and allow you to use the passenger side switch only to wind the window up and down.

If none of that works then the fault could be in the passenger side switch, so bridging pins 6 to 5 and then 1 to 2 on the passenger side switch would by pass the passenger side switch, obviously remove any bridges from the drivers side switch and plug that back in and you should be able to operate the window from only the drivers side.

The ground C015 is common with a lot of other systems, the lights in the switches are grounded to this, as is the module M001, so if there was a ground problem then I would expect a lot of things to not be working.

Hope that helps and gives you a plan on where to look.

 

[AnthonyH]

Thanks for the info, I'll need to digest your post because auto electricals are very complicated. But I can probably get this working lol. I'll post what discover as I go along

 

[AndyRKett]

Fuses first don’t worry about anything else I said just yet

 

[AnthonyH]

You were right about the white clip! I had it back 80 degrees not realising it wanted exactly 90. So the central locking and speakers are working all normally again.

I checked the fuses and they are both OK. They weren't numbered 85 and 86 of course, but the wiring diagram above helpfully showed me the position of the fuses and I double checked this by taking out the drivers side window fuse which duly stopped it working. So a blown fuse is ruled out.

I have the multimeter primed for tomorrow morning lol.

 

[AndyRKett]

You were right about the white clip! I had it back 80 degrees not realising it wanted exactly 90. So the central locking and speakers are working all normally again.

I checked the fuses and they are both OK. They weren't numbered 85 and 86 of course, but the wiring diagram above helpfully showed me the position of the fuses and I double checked this by taking out the drivers side window fuse which duly stopped it working. So a blown fuse is ruled out.

I have the multimeter primed for tomorrow morning lol.

I would still go and check every single other fuse in the fuse box just in case. weirder things have happened and maybe if you are certain you have the correct fuse, change it anyway. Nothing worse than spending hours trying to trace a fault only to find out its a fuse with a hairline crack in the middle.

 

[AnthonyH]

I would still go and check every single other fuse in the fuse box just in case. weirder things have happened and maybe if you are certain you have the correct fuse, change it anyway. Nothing worse than spending hours trying to trace a fault only to find out its a fuse with a hairline crack in the middle.

Will do. Time to find my glasses - I misplaced them this morning while having car issues and they've still not turned up

First port of call will be to swop the two window regulator fuses, I know for sure the driver side one is OK as its working as an on/off switch, so i'll put it in the other side and hope for the best.

 

[AndyRKett]

Will do. Time to find my glasses - I misplaced them this morning while having car issues and they've still not turned up

First port of call will be to swop the two window regulator fuses, I know for sure the driver side one is OK as its working as an on/off switch, so i'll put it in the other side and hope for the best.

Perfect

 

[AnthonyH]

I checked all of the fuses this morning (glasses on ) and they are all OK.

If i listen intently i can hear a faint motor clicking sound when I press either the up button from the drivers or passenger side. So i think power is getting to the motor, just not enough. (And the down switch works properly).

Looking at the wiring diagram then it looks like the wires GN and GV control the upwards drive on the motor with GV being positive, and that must be working. So GN would be a likely problem wire, it is yellow with a black strip and I could see it on both sides of the car.

I took off the switch units on both sides to look for loose wires, but there isn't anything. In particular i looked at the GN wire but it looks intact and solidly in place. I can't currently test it as I'm not sure how.

 

[AnthonyH]

you can bypass the drivers side electric window switch by bridging pin 10 and pin 12 to pin 11 looking at that. this will ground pins 1 and 6 on the passenger side switch and allow you to use the passenger side switch only to wind the window up and down.

I shorted out pins 10 and 12 to 11 and the passenger side does indeed go up and down! Very pleased

What is a good way of making the temporary bridges permanent? Soldering pins ? Jamming wires into the top?

Hope that helps and gives you a plan on where to look.

Yes its very helpful!

 

[AndyRKett]

Sounds like the fault is in the drivers side window switch then ??

Just get a new one off ebay for probably a few quid and it should fix the problem

 

[AnthonyH]

Sounds like the fault is in the drivers side window switch then ??

Just get a new one off ebay for probably a few quid and it should fix the problem

That's a good idea! Thanks for that, I'll look into it.

 

[AnthonyH]

Its fixed!!!! Happy days

I opened up the switch mechanism and there was some charring around the contacts, I cleaned them up and it now works just fine. Thanks for your help