T-line sub box

Currently reading:
T-line sub box

Transmission lines are a bit old hat now. With subsonic filters and other controls on amplifiers a well made sub box will be just as good.

As for wanting to build one for fun and to show off some physics skills then it's not much different to a normal box in construction. It's just long and has angles in the bend I believe.
What kind are you thinking of. I have always got the impression that a tapped TL is the best with half the woofer exposed at the mouth and then the rest driving the throat.

As for not being able to fit one in the car. It should be fine as you can consetina the line, but I can't remember what you need to do to counteract the effect of each 90 degree bend.
 
Last edited:
Yeah all the info I've been reading has been on forums from around the 2005 time. So would a ported box be just as good then? I'm trying to get the best out of the sub as I can. I'm attempting to slowly build up a home system so the size of the box isn't too much of an issue as I can easily make the box into like a floor standing speaker, i.e. make it longer than it is wide and put it on the corner.

The only issue I have is powering the damn thing, I know about using PSU's but the sub is 1000W rms (or so they say) and I read somewhere that powering that much using one PSU is bad and it is also a bad idea to run multiple PSU's to one amp. The only other alternative is using home amps but I can't find any that match the power ratings (going a bit off topic here).

Anyway, I've made a mock design using sketchup which is below.

Tline.jpg


The line is tuned to 40Hz being 84" long. Not sure if the changes in port widths are correct, I've only just noticed it goes smaller then larger :bang:

Any advice would be appreciated (y)

Cheers,
Anthony.
 
Lol using 1000w in a house is silly. It will vibrate all of the ornaments etc off shelves. I was messing around with one of my old cars in the garage once. I had the subs on the floor and bearing in mind they were running at about 150w RMS each they made a complete mess of the house.

I am very rusty with TL but I'll have a relook into them before I comment. As for PSU, you just need one capable of providing the power you need.
 
Well that's a relief, I assumed that because there was more air to move in a room compared to the cabin of a car a more powerful sub would be required. This means I can build a decent system for a lot less :)

I know that the box design is key so I want to make sure I get it right.
 
Been researching tapped horn designs and they look pretty good. Work in the same manner as TL's but have positive taper. Downloaded hornresp which is a programme that allows you to input all the data for the driver that is going to be used and set parameters for the design of a box. I managed to tune a box to 30Hz with an output of 120dB :)

I'll get a sketchup done to show what it will be like :)
 
Ok so I did a sketchup model of 2 tapped horn boxes shown below:

tapped_horns10.jpg


The one on the left is 7'7" tall and is far too tall so I looked into double folded boxes. It came out with the one on the right which is 4'7" tall and 3'7" long meaning it is more suited to my space requirements. Both boxes are tuned to 30Hz with a 172" horn.
 
If my knowledge of Tapped TL proceeds me you cant make a horn like that. The angle of the horn on the wall opposite the mouth is where the sub needs to mount.
 
Back
Top