Hi 
Ran a search and read through a few threads but none I came across seem to directly relate to what problems I'm getting. Some similar but the threads rarely came to any conclusion..
I'll start off by saying that this has been like this since I got the car, so don't start telling me my cambelt change knocked the timing out
Basically, when you start the car from cold, it does start every time, but doesn't seem to fire perfect. It seems to fire but hesitate at around 700rpm for a second or 2 then kick into life and settle at a fast idle for around 30 seconds, then settles down to around 950rpm, where it stays with minimal variation. If you rev the car within the first 15 or so seconds of it being started, it will rev but hesitate and rev on 3 cylinders only. When you taker your foot off, it settles back into a 4 cylinder idle. After those 15 seconds or so, it revs fine.
When your driving around calmly, its fine. No issues what so ever. When you put your foot down from under 2000rpm, it hesitates until above 2000rpm, then goes as normal and sounds perfect. Infact, if you boot it around keeping the revs above 2000rpm, it drives perfect, or if you smoothly accelerate from stand still, it drives perfect. Just if you put your foot down from stand still, you get the hesitation.
It seems to do this regardless whether the car is hot or cold. The only thing that changes is the 3 cylinder firing on start up when its warm. It goes straight into a 900rpm idle when warm.
I had similar symptoms in a cinq years back. Ended up being the head gasket in the end... Not sure this is the problem with this car as there are no symptoms except for what I have mentioned. Not using oil/burning oil, not using coolant. No mix between the two. Obviously could be blown between 2 cylinders but that would cause constant problems, not just between certain rpm at certain loads. I'm not ruling it out but at the moment, I'm not convinced.
Any ideas then? The sparks and leads look in good condition, a number of parts look new so seems like its been serviced recently. Defo no coils as I know what its like when a coil is failing. this is not it.
Would unpluging the lambda / MAF / CS cause the ECU to revert to a standard map? If it does, would I assume that good running with either disconnected would result in that being the faulty part? If it doesnt revert to a standard map, would I assume it running the same with either part disconnected would mean that is the faulty part? I get no warning lights btw.
Any advice appreciated I'm not too concerned as it does drive really well. Would prefer it driving perfect though
Ran a search and read through a few threads but none I came across seem to directly relate to what problems I'm getting. Some similar but the threads rarely came to any conclusion..
I'll start off by saying that this has been like this since I got the car, so don't start telling me my cambelt change knocked the timing out
Basically, when you start the car from cold, it does start every time, but doesn't seem to fire perfect. It seems to fire but hesitate at around 700rpm for a second or 2 then kick into life and settle at a fast idle for around 30 seconds, then settles down to around 950rpm, where it stays with minimal variation. If you rev the car within the first 15 or so seconds of it being started, it will rev but hesitate and rev on 3 cylinders only. When you taker your foot off, it settles back into a 4 cylinder idle. After those 15 seconds or so, it revs fine.
When your driving around calmly, its fine. No issues what so ever. When you put your foot down from under 2000rpm, it hesitates until above 2000rpm, then goes as normal and sounds perfect. Infact, if you boot it around keeping the revs above 2000rpm, it drives perfect, or if you smoothly accelerate from stand still, it drives perfect. Just if you put your foot down from stand still, you get the hesitation.
It seems to do this regardless whether the car is hot or cold. The only thing that changes is the 3 cylinder firing on start up when its warm. It goes straight into a 900rpm idle when warm.
I had similar symptoms in a cinq years back. Ended up being the head gasket in the end... Not sure this is the problem with this car as there are no symptoms except for what I have mentioned. Not using oil/burning oil, not using coolant. No mix between the two. Obviously could be blown between 2 cylinders but that would cause constant problems, not just between certain rpm at certain loads. I'm not ruling it out but at the moment, I'm not convinced.
Any ideas then? The sparks and leads look in good condition, a number of parts look new so seems like its been serviced recently. Defo no coils as I know what its like when a coil is failing. this is not it.
Would unpluging the lambda / MAF / CS cause the ECU to revert to a standard map? If it does, would I assume that good running with either disconnected would result in that being the faulty part? If it doesnt revert to a standard map, would I assume it running the same with either part disconnected would mean that is the faulty part? I get no warning lights btw.
Any advice appreciated
I'm not too concerned as it does drive really well. Would prefer it driving perfect though
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