Technical Rear brake disk and pads replacement.

[Rogereld]

My next job is to replace rear brake pads and disks. Any helpful hints on how to retract the rotating rear caliper pistons without using a special caliper piston tool kit? The handbrake action means they will not push straight in. Does the handbrake need adjusting at each rear wheel when disks & pads are replaced?

 

[koalar]

Anything that fits the slots you can push down and turn will work

I use 90 degree circlip pliers

Others have found an angle grinder spanner fits

If I was struggling to find anything a piece of metal or wood with nail correctly spaced would work

 

[DaveMcT]

I used water pump pliers with a strip of aluminium to protect the piston from jaw teeth damage and a trigger type G clamp to push the piston in.

Check the handbrake spindle seal very carelully. Both of mine leaked, but a pair of calipers is only around £80. If one is showing signs of leaks, change them both as the other will follow soon enough.

Fits Abarth 500 / 595 / 695 500C / 595C / 695C Brake Calipers Rear Pair 2008-On | eBay

These are brand new Original Equipment quality Brake Caliper for your Abarth 500 595 695, 500C 595C 695C, which means that they are of similar (if not better) quality than the parts that are on brand new cars. We are car parts specialists and offer the lowest prices online. We offer a free 2...

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Rogereld]

I could rotate the piston with my narrow point pliers but could not press it in.

I was successful using the wrench from my angle grinder to rotate combined with a nut and bolt and a couple of large penny washers to push the piston in.

The 8mm hex bolts were difficult. Full of dirt and corrosion and took a lot of patience to release.

 

[The Panda Nut]

I used water pump pliers with a strip of aluminium to protect the piston from jaw teeth damage and a trigger type G clamp to push the piston in.

Check the handbrake spindle seal very carelully. Both of mine leaked, but a pair of calipers is only around £80. If one is showing signs of leaks, change them both as the other will follow soon enough.

Fits Abarth 500 / 595 / 695 500C / 595C / 695C Brake Calipers Rear Pair 2008-On | eBay

These are brand new Original Equipment quality Brake Caliper for your Abarth 500 595 695, 500C 595C 695C, which means that they are of similar (if not better) quality than the parts that are on brand new cars. We are car parts specialists and offer the lowest prices online. We offer a free 2...

www.ebay.co.uk

I agree but the too to do the job was only a few £ a couple of years back and makes things so much easier. I htink my kit was £20 and has both left and right hand threaded elements and magnetic disc that fit a big range of calipers. Its useful even if there is no need to rotate the pistons as you go. The big plus is it reduces the possibility of straining the flexi pipes as well as saving a load of time. I like to work the pistons back and fore a few times while the pads are out and use the tool as a stop so I can push the pedal with gusto. I used to use a square shanked large screw driver but that was a faff.

 

[The Panda Nut]

I could rotate the piston with my narrow point pliers but could not press it in.

I was successful using the wrench from my angle grinder to rotate combined with a nut and bolt and a couple of large penny washers to push the piston in.

The 8mm hex bolts were difficult. Full of dirt and corrosion and took a lot of patience to release.


View attachment 427002

Cool. My angle gringder tool is too small It looks similar to your special tool No 1!

 

[Rogereld]

This Panda 100 is new to me and when I first drove it a couple of weeks ago I thought a bit of scraping sound from the discs could be some rust after heavy rainfall and a period without use. Closer inspection revealed the pads and disc on one side were in very bad condition with one of the pads down to bare metal. Possibly something had got stuck some time ago, as the other side was much better with 2mm remaining on the pads. When I tried to fit the new pads in the caliper one side jammed tight and would not install correctly. It needed a lot of rust removal and some filing to clean the caliper channels and spring clips to get a good sliding fit. I am guessing this could have caused the problem.

New pads and discs are now fitted to both rear wheels.

 

[vexorg]

I got a chinese rewind kit kit for about £8 off ebay some years ago. I thought even if it done one then it's worth it, have done several now. and there are a lot of bits and adapters in it. No idea how they could have made that for a profit as it even came with it's own moulded case.

Buy a rewind kit, saves hours of swearing and pain from slipped pliers if the piston is tight.

 

[DaveMcT]

The fronts on our 1.2 had a similar pad wear pattern. Middle 50% was clean outer 25% inside and outside were pitted with rust. I changed them for a decent brand name though probably made in the same Indian foundry.
My 100Hp rear calipers were not as nasty as your's but within a year one started binding and later leaking from the hand brake spindle seal. I replaced it. A few months later the other side was leaking.

I don't like the OEM setup with two short rubber hoses and metal pipes between. I replaced with 650mm long braided hose that run end to end. To remove the underfloor end, cut the hose and spin the fragment off. You can then warm the flare nut to free it off the pipe without damage to the steel pipe. I used a gas cooker lighter. Blow torch is far too fierce not to mention hazardous to paint in the area.

Check the inner sills where they bulge just ahead of the rear wheel arch. Under seal seems to fail around there. Catch it early and you'll avoid welding work.