Technical Rad hose connections - leak

[portland_bill]

Both bottom hose and header tank hose are weeping a little at their connection to the radiator. These are both the push-fit types, so the o-ring seal is weeping. Looking at ePER, they only list a complete hose, not separate o-rings.

Does anyone have any idea whether replacement o-rings are available anywhere?

Bottom hose is 46798912 (£39.28)
Header tank hose is 51735373 (£41.24)

Seems a lot of money for couple of o-rings.

 

[chippy1]

Cant you take the o-rings out and take it too spares shop and match it up with a new o-rings

 

[varesecrazy]

Oxford Bolt + Bearing - Cowley

o-rings are measured in "section" = the thickness of the rubber

then a B.S. number relating to the diameter of the (circumference) of the ring you need,

awkward to measure accurately,
best it to let if fall over something mildly tapered then measure the Outer Diameter at that point.


prising them off the vehicle , measuring + reassembly with a little sealant.. ( OR soak in fuel for 5 mins to SWELL),
may be a good idea when you've got an hour, then you can go shopping with your info on the 2 you need,
Charlie

 

[jon1612]

Both bottom hose and header tank hose are weeping a little at their connection to the radiator. These are both the push-fit types, so the o-ring seal is weeping. Looking at ePER, they only list a complete hose, not separate o-rings.
.

bung some bars leaks in it and forget it

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

bung some bars leaks in it and forget it

What bad advise. That stuff can be costly in the long run, and is nothing more than a bodge. OP wants to complete the repair correctly by the looks or it, and quite rightly so.

 

[jon1612]

What bad advise. That stuff can be costly in the long run, and is nothing more than a bodge. OP wants to complete the repair correctly by the looks or it, and quite rightly so.

dont know about costly in long run, yes maybe what you call a bodge , i like to call it a work around, especialy if you need the car NOW. I will shut up and go stand in the corner with my dunces cap on ( again ) :bang::bang::bang::bang::bang:

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

dont know about costly in long run, yes maybe what you call a bodge , i like to call it a work around, especialy if you need the car NOW. I will shut up and go stand in the corner with my dunces cap on ( again ) :bang::bang::bang::bang::bang:

I've seen first hand the affects it has on a coolant system, one where there was a crack in the cars head, turned the oil to jelly, and others where it's clogged the system up, and don't even start with vapourisors on LPGed vehicles.

It's only a word of warning, people are welcome to do what they want with their car, but I like people to be fully aware of what they're in for if they bodge things at times.

It's interesting you call it a work around, as your post suggested use it and forget about the initial fault, and if you need a car NOW then just spend the money and fix it properly so it doesn't fail the next time it's needed NOW

 

[jon1612]

if you need a car NOW then just spend the money and fix it properly

So what your saying to portland_bill if " shut up and pay up" ?? if thats what it costs just do it. not having a go just wanting to clear it up then Im off to stand in the corner

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

So what your saying to portland_bill if " shut up and pay up" ?? if thats what it costs just do it. not having a go just wanting to clear it up then Im off to stand in the corner

No I'm not, OP is asking if there is a cheaper proper fix, IE buy just the fittings and not the whole pipe with the fittings. He's made it clear what he wants to do, and why. What I'm saying it that your answer to the problem could potentially fix the issue, but it is also likely to cause some nasty problems and cost more in the long run.

 

[jon1612]

Head down, stood in corner (again)

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Head down, stood in corner (again)

I'm not trying to have a go, just want people to see that some of these products that appear to be a good idea can cause some serious harm, similar applies to oil flush products etc.

 

[portland_bill]

Oxford Bolt + Bearing - Cowley
Charlie

That's great, thanks.

Having the use of another car, I can just pop them out and take them in for them to match.


Didn't mean to start a fight over sealants. I'd never use sealants, for the reasons stated above, as they get everywhere, not just the leak point. Leak is slight, so can just keep topping up for now, until I'm ready to drown myself removing the bottom hose again. Great system, you can see it from above, and get one hand to it, but it is a two-handed job, so needs to be done underneath, where the bucket needs to be. Wetsuit anyone?

 

[jon1612]

That's great, thanks.

Didn't mean to start a fight over sealants.

no fight, Im just always wrong ( well was right about the clutch other day- but nobody notices when your right lol) anyway I quite like it here in the corner with my pointed hat on :bang:

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

but it is a two-handed job, so needs to be done underneath, where the bucket needs to be. Wetsuit anyone?

Been there, done that, got the t-shirt

 

[portland_bill]

Been there, done that, got the t-shirt

That'll be a wet t-shirt then.

 

[varesecrazy]

Didn't mean to start a fight over sealants. I'd never use sealants, for the reasons stated above, as they get everywhere, not just the leak point. Leak is slight, so can just keep topping up for now, until I'm ready to drown myself removing the bottom hose again. Great system, you can see it from above, and get one hand to it, but it is a two-handed job, so needs to be done underneath, where the bucket needs to be. Wetsuit anyone?

no problem,

I've use Barr's TURD once, as a naive 18 year old with a leaky RAD , needless to say is wasn't any good at that, made a right mes though.:yuck:

now 30 years wiser I'll say that similar products DO have their uses,

I used a Liquid-glass to repair a leaky ford,
water and oil mixing.. after changing a perfect head gasket , there was no cost incentive to strip the whole block - so a "scientific" product , where you flush the system,
put the "glass" in with neat water run HOT for @ 1.5 hours until the water leak STOPS,level then remains LEVEL
DUMP neat water, let the blocks HEAT fuse the glass in joint,
fill with antifreeze + forget -jobdone..,a winter evenings work,

NO messy residue,
NO filthy expansion tank you can no longer see through
I hope that's of use to someone,

Charlie

 

[GeorgeDamper]

Have a look at these people as well

http://supaseal.co.uk/o-rings.html

 

[portland_bill]

Thank you everyone for your input.

I think I may have worried too soon. I'd changed the coolant, so had disturbed these two connections. When refilling, the radiator bleed screw is directly above these two hoses, so dribbles down over them. I'd driven it for a few miles, but possibly not long enough for the bled coolant to evaporate. Next morning, both hoses were damp. Now, having done a couple more journeys, including one round trip of just over 100 miles, coolant level has not dropped and hoses are dry. (Now I've jinxed it, it'll be empty by morning!)