Excuse the pun, but it would be pointless not to change and correctly gap a new set of points whilst fitting a condensor .Ok, so I'm going to replace the condenser, but it's ridiculous to buy online and ship for what is about a $4 part. Looking for one at a local parts shop, but not sure what the specs are. Anyone in the US have a suggestion? Hoping to get something at advance auto parts, etc.
Attached a couple pics of the distributor, which I think looks good.
Back in the good old days pre electronics and ECUs, I used to boast (rightly) that if I went out on a breakdown unless the car had a massive engine failure (con rod through the side of the block) I could get them going so they could drive home .
One of those "tricks" was if it was misfiring due to condensor failure I would clean and gap the contact points and if I didn't have a correct condensor with me, often as not the car would have a radio suppressor fitted to the coil on the switch (power) side , I would simply reconnect the radio suppressor to the CB (contact breaker side) where it would act as a condensor for the points and disconnect the original duff condensor. The car would then start up happily and drive home.
The point I am making is providing the points are clean and gaped correctly and you disconnected the old condensor, then any similar condensor or small radio suppressor would prove or disprove your problem and it would not have to be inside the distributor, but nearer to the coil if connected correctly.
Incidentally if coil is marked - and + rather than sw and cb the principle is the same, whichever is the earth on the battery is the side going to the points.
Finally is there any damage "tracking or cracks" in or on the distributor cap, usually this starts as an occasional misfire in damp weather and gets worse to the point of stopping the engine.