Amp protection mode help!

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Amp protection mode help!

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Sep 20, 2009
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Location
Stafford
What equipment do you have?

Eonon double din stereo, pyle blue front foor speakers, vibe sek 5 rear with tweeter and crossover, black air twin 12" active subs and vive a1 amp (powering all door speakers) BUT.. since the problem i brought some new equipment... JVC KD-R422 stereo, vibe a4 amp, and black air components for the front doors to replace the pyle blue ones, but havn't connected these yet due to not wanting to blow them or cause any sort of damage

What exactly is the problem? For example, do any lights come on, is there a distorted sound, etc.

I've had the same set up for over a year, and it has all been working fine, at one point i did over heat the vibe a1 amp by bridging the wires wrong and setting the impedence wrong, but after that i corrected the problem and it worked fine ever since and this was about 8 months ago.

So.. i was driving into town, on a smooth road, and my speakers that are amped up by the vibe a1 amp went off, so i thought, hey its happened before and it's probably just over heated, which it did, so i left it for an hour, came back expecting it to turn on but went into protect mode, then shortly after my sub started smoking, and figured that one of the coils has gone in the right hand sub (as its now out of phase with the other sub and when you touch the cone you can hear and feel it rubbing) so after going around with the multi meter, power on the vibe a1 power wire was reading fine, as was remote, tested the ground too and thats fine, as are the sub wires, the battery is running fine too, and the ground is also reading correctly, so i have been out and brought a new headunit (needed an upgrade anyways) new vibe a4 amp to replace the old one, and some new speakers (also needed an upgrade) before changing any of the new equiptment over i found a short in a tweeter wire wire the casing had split of the copper strands were touching the chassis, so fixed that and after plugging the new amp in it does exactly the same as the other amp, i have checked all my other speaker wires for shorts, they are fine, tested the amp with no high level input in and no speaker wires, it was in protect still but then i plugged the high level in and it went off, at the minute the power light comes on then it starts to fade out, no protection comes on, another weird thing was that the power cable to the fuse blew (we didn't realize at the time) and we connected a short lenght oif wire from the power to the remote to test if the problem was in the remote wire, and the amp came on, the light stayed on and no protection, so i took one of my front door speakers completly out and wired it straight up in the boot where the amp is, and the speaker came on, but very very quiet, no mid just highs, and so we used a totally different speaker to do this test just to make sure that speaker wasn't broken and the same thing still, the after realizing that the fuse had blown in the power wire, we replaced the fuse and back to square one, no sound and protection mode flickering, so i tried turning the gain down and still no change..

I'm using high level input because the headunit doesnt have rca, all fuses have been checked, all wires have been checked, i've even tried the power wires from the subs amp in the vibe a1 and vibe a4 and still the same, also when i got the headunit and plugged it in i hadnt modified the loom to go to the high level input so it they were running straight from the amp and the sound was quiet and distorted, there are other tests i have done but i can't remember because i've done so many, oh and also tried plugging the rca's from the sub into the vibe a1 and vibe a4 amp and still no change

Pleaseeeee help :(
 
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i cant really help you with this problem but im sure there will be someone that can but i would like to say thanks for actually reading the sticky :worship:
 
All the grounds are fine, I have sanded under my rear seat and used a self tapper to secure them down, plus they have been fine for the past year, and also checking them out on the multi meter they seem to be fine :(
 
Hmm a self tapper for the earth? Could it be that after a year it just isnt tight in the hole any more?
Are you sure your power cable is the correct rating for the power that you are drawing? For the sort of power your using i would expect a wiring kits terminal to be too bit for a small self tapping screw.

You wont get mid bass from a mid range speaker running free air as it has nothing to kick off of. This is why they should be mounted on a solid baffle. A lot of us use steel baffles to add more weight to solidify the kick.

One thing that is confusing me. It was working yet the fuse had blown? How does that work.

Have you checked the power cable for a short. I.e taken it out. Or checking the voltage front and rear.
 
I checked the tightness of the screw and it seems as solid as it was when I first installed it, I have the sub ground and the speaker amp ground at separate points, and the self tappers have washers on them so its secure, the sub wiring is 4awg and the speaker amp is 8awg, I have completely removed the power cable and there are no snags or anything in the wire, I've replaced the fuse holder on that wire too

The speaker we used I tested it off my friends amp first and the cone had some movement in it, although it was a mono block and the cone was moving, and when it was plugged.into my and the cone had no movement what so ever.

We bridged the remote lead and power lead together at the amp to see if the remote lead was faulty and the power came on and stayed on with Jo protection mode coming on, then we saw the fuse had blown in the power cable, so we replaced it and it went into protection mode again and the power light would turn on hut the start to fade out, we figured that when we were bridging the remote and power the amp was drawing some power from the remote lead, if that's possible... but from what we can see that's the case.

And as I said we have taken the power wire out and it has no snags, and we tested remote and power at the amp, power at the front and ground from the ground points that are self tapped and at the front.

I'm so confused :| the weird thing is how it just suddenly stopped working, its not as if unwashed messing with the set up of the wires or anything, I was just driving along :( my car is in complete bits at the.minute and I just want it sorting out :( been like this for.nearly 2 weeks now and everyone I've spoken to is stumped about what's wrong :(
 
Well im actually having a similar problem myself. Sometimes in the mornings my sub wont play :confused:
The only thing that i can think of is my dodgy alternator belt and not charging the battery enough. The battery then drops floating voltage over night and the amp cant power it until a little drive sorts it out.
Could you battery or alt be a fault?
 
Well the weird thing is i have had my alternator changed along with a new belt, and i've had my battery tested and it reads fine too :confused: but for some reason my battery will die and i'll have to bump start the car if i have the ignition on for what about 10 - 15 mins :confused: maybe an electrical fault? Also thought i'd mention that we tested for AC current from the battery and that all read fine too :bang:
 
Not too sure what you mean there :confused: And i have to usually bump start the car, I still haven't managed to figure all this out, my car is still in bits, I don't know what to do now, where to look next? I'm not too sure what things are supposed to read but I checked the positive speaker terminal and the ground on the amp with a multi meter and it read about 5.80 DC, then i read somthing on the internet and it said i should check that in AC, so i did and it read 0.30, I don't really know what that means to be honest :bang:
 
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