Gearbox refitting punto jtd

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Gearbox refitting punto jtd

dubsential

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Having cocked up in the past,
I am busy putting box back on..
I must be missing something having lowered the engine down the back of the box is clearly not wanting to go past the chassis leg...
Is it necessary to undo the bracket which holds the driveshaft to put it on properly.

I don't want to be using any force as I have broke enough things doing it that way.

I shall attach some pictures to give an idea.

Thanks if you can help.
 

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Trying to understand the picture but from what I see the curved pressed metal piece in the top middle to right is the sub frame? The picture is take from the underside of the car looking upwards to the drive shaft and above is the starter motor (red cable) etc.

If so then the driveshaft / CV should be ABOVE the sub frame and you have lowered the engine too much?
 
Trying to understand the picture but from what I see the curved pressed metal piece in the top middle to right is the sub frame? The picture is take from the underside of the car looking upwards to the drive shaft and above is the starter motor (red cable) etc.

If so then the driveshaft / CV should be ABOVE the sub frame and you have lowered the engine too much?

Yeah this is what I found to be the case that I actually actually needed to lift gearbox side, in my case I removed radiator top hose to get the engine nearer the radiator, to get it on, I was advised by someone in another thread that removing the stud from the gearbox would make it easier..
I would agree as the thin metal " not sure what you would call it " shroud? Tends to bite on said stud and as it wasn't me that started gearbox job my mate told me original box didn't have this stud in..

I imagine it's had a clutch or two but I put a stage 2 kevtek cg performance clutch in and it doesn't like it, unfortunately the clutch that was in and doesn't have a name on it was organic material and I drove it for sometime with 1,2 and 5 and no slippage ever.
Hence gearbox change third went first then fourth..
Oh and main seal was clearly leaking slightly.. Been replaced.

So box off again joy, I will be removing that stud and replace with a bolt..

I have original pressure plate, friction plate was well worn, so il have to sum up whether to use original pressure plate or cg performance plate..
After speaking to cg performance and larkspeed.. Finding out that larkspeeds, drivetorque clutch range are made by cg performance.
Despite cg performance listing just the pressure plates they just want to sell me a full kit a lovely paddle for the road.
Larkspeed wanted to sell me a paddle clutch

I appreciate it's a fair bit more powerful than its meant to be but it was running an organic plate before and it was fine even with a lack of gears.
In the end after refusing a paddle for road use the guy at larkspeed said I should speak to sachs about an organic plate..
Which is essentially what they have to begin with.
Long story short it's having a Valeo friction plate.. And one of the two pressure plates..
I know from finding my car on here being mapped it was on standard clutch with a near 130 map..
Moral of the story don't believe everything clutch manufacturers tell you.

Apparently according to larkspeed if kevtek material slips once you have full break in to start over.

I live in country side and it slips like hell without putting ya foot down.

Ive read some stuff on hdi's nailing cg performance paddle in a year, not very impressive and as the guy at larkspeed admitted a paddle is gonna hammer the dmf..

Be nice to get rid of dmf but oh well not much available for the punto jtd

To note the clutch that was in with no slip was simply labelled 01 on the pressure plate and 02 on the friction plate.. Or vise versa..
Wish I knew where that came from as I was running it with the map and also ronbox tuning box on the fuel rail and it took it.

Cg performance paddle is rated up to 40 percent power increase so buy there stats that isn't even rated for what it will be pushing..

Believe me it's bloody quick without that box switched on.
Since remap it's got full stainless, decat, egr blank, oil breather to atmosphere and I've put a k&n typhoon on the gsr induction kit.

This was all running fine on the other clutch.

And yes I know they need bedding in but I don't rate the stage 2 clutch at all.
At least the kevtek material.
 
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