O2 sensor

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O2 sensor

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Hi I was wondering if anyone has tried any fuel additives for cleaning the fuel system like o2 sensors and cats? I have used cataclean in the past with good results. Any others recommended? Getting what feels like a miss fire when accelerating and when going uo any Incline. Gp 1.4 16v. Thanks.
 
i dont believe all the hype about fuel additives etc i think it's all bull just to get you to part with a bit of cash but what i have found that does make a difference is extralube zx1 i've been using it for a number of years now , not only in cars but bikes as well for instance i had a gsxr11 that i dyno'd and it was putting out 146.6 rwbhp then i changed the oil chucked some zx1 and put some in the tank and the dyno was 150 and a definate improvement from the throttle response
 
I'd love to see their explanation as to how any fuel additive will clean anything after it has been through the combustion chamber. If it can survive there, and pass through without being burnt, how will it do any good against a sensor or cat that is cooler than the combustion temp? Anything in the combustion chamber that doesn't burn will affect the normal burn. If it does not convince on the label, leave it on the shelf.
 
I'd love to see their explanation as to how any fuel additive will clean anything after it has been through the combustion chamber. If it can survive there, and pass through without being burnt, how will it do any good against a sensor or cat that is cooler than the combustion temp? Anything in the combustion chamber that doesn't burn will affect the normal burn. If it does not convince on the label, leave it on the shelf.

Have you not heard of terraclean?





i dont believe all the hype about fuel additives etc i think it's all bull just to get you to part with a bit of cash but what i have found that does make a difference is extralube zx1 i've been using it for a number of years now , not only in cars but bikes as well for instance i had a gsxr11 that i dyno'd and it was putting out 146.6 rwbhp then i changed the oil chucked some zx1 and put some in the tank and the dyno was 150 and a definate improvement from the throttle response







No additive will clean the O2 sensor, waste of money.
Use premium fuel, like Shel V-Power, to keep the fuel system in good, clean condition.
 
Have you not heard of terraclean?

Heard of it, yes. Looked at it, or read its claims or instructions, no.

How does your question address the points I made?

You asked for help, replies were given, you respond with a strange question that helps none of us.

Unless any product can convince how it survives combustion and then do any good in the catalyst it is not worth wasting money on.
 
Hi I was wondering if anyone has tried any fuel additives for cleaning the fuel system like o2 sensors and cats? I have used cataclean in the past with good results. Any others recommended? Getting what feels like a miss fire when accelerating and when going uo any Incline. Gp 1.4 16v. Thanks.



Fuel system.. :confused:they are exhaust mounted..??

TBH you can remove the lambda probe, and clean it with brake cleaner,
BUT if the fuel system is in good clean order , there should be no need,

what codes are you getting?, Data readings ? to suggest its a poor reading Lambda probe?,

unless the exhaust tailpipe is sooty (n) - I would look at Spark quality 1st, plugs, then leads ;)
Charlie
 
Heard of it, yes. Looked at it, or read its claims or instructions, no.

How does your question address the points I made?

You asked for help, replies were given, you respond with a strange question that helps none of us.

Unless any product can convince how it survives combustion and then do any good in the catalyst it is not worth wasting money on.

Always someone wants to start a negative debate
 
Fuel system.. :confused:they are exhaust mounted..??

TBH you can remove the lambda probe, and clean it with brake cleaner,
BUT if the fuel system is in good clean order , there should be no need,

what codes are you getting?, Data readings ? to suggest its a poor reading Lambda probe?,

unless the exhaust tailpipe is sooty (n) - I would look at Spark quality 1st, plugs, then leads ;)
Charlie

Where is the best place for coils? I heard the dealers wernt badly priced
 
If you have an additive that produces very little or carbon when burned then the gases burn off the carbon in the exhaust system and also allows the carbon to be burned off at a lower temperature
 
Lots of posts on here about coils, leads and ECU connectors.

Before replacing anything, get codes read to point in general direction.

Check plugs.
Replace leads if more than 5 years old.
Check connectors to coils and ECU for any signs of loose pins or burning.
Only then suspect coils themselves. Any poor connections may cause damage to the coils, replacing them without curing the cause will lead to another failure.

No assumptions about causes, logical diagnosis.
 
Avaxbox You replaced timing belt without the locking/timing tools right?

post #28
https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-pu...ut-when-stopping-help-please-2.html?p=4039057

I told you in an other thread that you shouldn't remove the belt on a starjet engine without the tools (the blacko method is just wrong)

First check the timing and then start replacing parts...

Thanks for the info cmosfxx.
Once again a thread is posted asking for help, but the OP fails to tell the whole story. For anyone with issues, start the thread with the basic problem, e.g. "Misfire under load", but then tell the whole story, what else has been done, when did the problem start, etc. People on here try to help. It is always easier when it is not your own vehicle sitting lame. But it turns people off if after wracking their brains more information appears that changes things significantly.:bang:
 
Last edited:
Avaxbox You replaced timing belt without the locking/timing tools right?

post #28
https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-pu...ut-when-stopping-help-please-2.html?p=4039057

I told you in an other thread that you shouldn't remove the belt on a starjet engine without the tools (the blacko method is just wrong)

First check the timing and then start replacing parts...

Believe me the engine sees 6500 rpm on a daily basis so I am sure the crank/cam relation is correct. Could you check your timing advance at idle, 1500rpm, 2000rpm and 3000rpm so I can have something to compare with? Thanks.
 
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