Hi, I've just bought a 1.6 dynamic and though it runs and drives ok the dash is completely dead, only thing is the airbag light stays on. Previous owner said it sometimes worked if it was very wet out on the road!!!!
Anyone have any ideas?? Thanks

Where are you from buddy I have a spare set of clocks from my stilo before I changed them to abarth dials if your close enough to me your welcome to see if they work in your car and buy them if they do

I am up near Dundee

It bit far from me mate to check as im in the midlands :lol:

Thot it might be!!!!

Seems to be a very common issue, I had it not long ago. Rather than shelling out £100+ for one of these repair jobs I just searched through breakers and got a second hand one for £35 works absolutely fine just plug and play. The only issue is obviously the milage, it flashes continuously because it knows that it is wrong, my car only has about 47k but the dash is about to hit 100k, I'm not bothered though as I will be this car's last owner. I think if you get it proxy aligned (either at a garage or with the MultiECU thing) it will stop, though I'm not going to pay to have this done

Before going to buy a new one have you checked all the other things mentioned on this forum? The D4 connector, relevant fuses, earth points, connections to fuse box, connection on the back of the cluster itself, also try cleaning all of the connectors when inspecting them. If still nothing then you may need to look at getting it repaired or buying a second hand one. The cluster is very easy to remove and inspect so try it yourself before being ripped off at a garage. (two phillips screws and some torx screws on the steering wheel cowl only)

Yep dead cluster - you can either get them repaired or replace them.


As others have said replacement gauges are going to flash the odometer as they're not recognised by the body computer - that'll require proxy alignment to fix. The actual milage / odo reading isn't likely to be correct either so you're going to have to either put up with the fact that's going to be wrong or have a mileage correction service fix it.


You can, if you want, have the clusters repaired. It's about £150 all in and typically warranted. I believe there is a Dutch chap on these forums that'll do it at a far more reasonable rate too.


Any stilo instrument set will function on the car, but you're going to need to get the gauges from the correct fuel type car, otherwise the scaling on the rev counter will not be right for the vehicle (although the revs themselves will read the correct number it'll look like you're revving it off the clock).


I ran my Abarth for a short time on a set of jtd clusters whilst my originals were out for repair, which was fun!


If it helps - I know Roger Windley (scrap yard) in Tattershall has a low mileage (50k ish) in recently for breaking which had the clocks in last time I checked.

Lots of people repair these clusters. Its often a dry solder joint apart from dismantling it easy repair, you need to take needles off , then the face and resolder.

You need to be really careful taking the needles off there are tools available although lots of people have success using a scissors or a knife. I heat the needles with hairdryer first.

If you are going to replace it anyway you have nothing to lose. If you done have a low wattage soldering iron or are ham fisted ask around for someone to help.

Stepper motors are available:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stepper-m...285710?hash=item3d0c0e8ece:g:NrcAAMXQjWtRQ6QD

Tiger i took the gamble of a set from the scrap yard. They lasted a few weeks and went the same way as the buggerd old one. If your car is a keeper its worth getting them fixed. I used these guys

http://www.mileagecorrectionleeds.com/test/Contact.php

£120 with a lifetime guarantee. Its also work having a strong battery so i replaced that also. In the past two years apart from today due to lack of use (flat battery) i have never had a problem.

Says the guy who posted his car for sale today

corcai said:

Lots of people repair these clusters. Its often a dry solder joint apart from dismantling it easy repair, you need to take needles off , then the face and resolder.

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Do you have any more information about this? I still have my old cluster and would be willing to have a go with the multi meter and soldering iron, nothing to loose

Surchr said:

Seems to be a very common issue, I had it not long ago. Rather than shelling out £100+ for one of these repair jobs I just searched through breakers and got a second hand one for £35 works absolutely fine just plug and play. The only issue is obviously the milage, it flashes continuously because it knows that it is wrong, my car only has about 47k but the dash is about to hit 100k, I'm not bothered though as I will be this car's last owner. I think if you get it proxy aligned (either at a garage or with the MultiECU thing) it will stop, though I'm not going to pay to have this done

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Yes, I also did this a few weeks ago. Exactly the same. £35 for a breaker's yard cluster, flashing mileage but everything else working fine. MOT yesterday, the tester said it didn't matter and happily passed it.

You can get the flashing miles total to stop. Think you need the higher level OBD software and cable to do it.

Surchr said:

Do you have any more information about this? I still have my old cluster and would be willing to have a go with the multi meter and soldering iron, nothing to loose

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Check the joints on the large capacitors first.

GPz750 said:

You can get the flashing miles total to stop. Think you need the higher level OBD software and cable to do it.

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My Gerrard looks likely to give me a few electronic issues.. Do you have a link to any suitable OBD/cable that would suit the beast? He's a 2004 jobbie.


Ralf S.

corcai said:

Check the joints on the large capacitors first.

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I had a look, the large capacitor on the side was lacking a bit of solder so I re-soldered the connection. I don't think it has changed anything though :/ I did notice a white powdery substance across the top of the board though, and some brown marking. Is this likely to have caused issues and is the brown marking heat damage?

Thanks for the suggestion though!

Surchr said:

I had a look, the large capacitor on the side was lacking a bit of solder so I re-soldered the connection. I don't think it has changed anything though :/ I did notice a white powdery substance across the top of the board though, and some brown marking. Is this likely to have caused issues and is the brown marking heat damage?

Thanks for the suggestion though!

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White powdery substance is oxidation from condensation or a leak you'd have to clean that off thoroughly with contact cleaner / isopropyl alcohol and a brush. It only takes a tiny amount to throw a microcontroller off or stop the oscillator from starting. Brown marking, could be remnant of mildew if it was damp.