Technical Still not starting and flat battery.

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Technical Still not starting and flat battery.

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Nov 17, 2012
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My friends still has been suffering flat batteries of late. I put a good used battery on it and it was OK for a while needed jump starting once. Now that battery seems to be goosed.

The other day it just would not start, only way to get it started was a jump start and a squirt of easy start.

I know all about jump starting and easy start so please don't tell me why it shouldn't be done, the car is a shed and has given so much trouble it is beyond belief.

If I jump start it,it will run but remove the jump leads and it will cut out. That would suggest the alternator, however belt is in tact and no messages or battery light have ever been noticed by the owner.

So any ideas what it wrong with it?

Loathed to buy a new battery at the !moment as she is fed up with it and probably looking for another car, could do with getting it running as she would like to part ex it for some money rather than scrap it.

Thanks.
 
you would need to check with multimeter voltage at battery while engine running to see if alternator is sending charge to the battery be looking for about 14 volt with engine ticking over, if you get a good reading at the battery with engine running then battery terminals are good and tight else battery is second hand scrap and replacement required as it is no longer able to hold a charge, see what voltage reading you get first, as cold weather could of sent the battery to the grave yard
 
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I am fully aware how to check the alternator with a multimeter. But as my post above says if I jump start it and remove the jump leads it won't stay running so I can't check the voltage output. The battery was a good known battery and was fine until it was put on this car. It has been on for this car for only a few weeks.

Biggest point being with the car started it should still run even with the battery disconnected.
 
Well as last time I took the jump leads off I tried jump starting it and turned my car off and it continued to run, so we know the battery is goosed even though it has a 2014 date on it which I presumed to be the date it was made maybe not.

Still does not prove the alternator is working though and have not got my multimeter to hand to check it but I think I can check the voltage on the dashboard of my focus.
 
I think the alternator is goosed as it not showing charging on my dashboard menu with jump leads on my battery, so reckon the alternator has goosed both batteries at best guess.
 
Test the alternator with a multimeter... you know how.
To do it get a good battery or charge the one that's dead (take it off the car first and give it a 12-14 hour long charge ).
strat the car and test the charging system.

if the charging system is ok you can still have a system that is draining the battery.
so also do a amp test with the engine off.
 
Mine would drain if I did not use the car for two/three days. Could not sus this till one dark night I was walking past the car and noticed the LCD on the clocks had a fain back light lit and the clock digits were showing. Turned out I was suffering the stilo clock failure. Got clocks fixed and bought a new battery for peace of mind and the car has been fine since. Infact my car had not been used since the 20th December and I went out yesterday and it fired up first turn of the key. It would never have done that before.


If you go out in the dark to check don't open the car as it will light up anyway.
 
OK so tested the alternator output at the battery now I have got a new multimeter and showing over 14 volts as expected. However even with a new battery it will not start, auxillary stuff lights up like interior lights odometer etc but nothing when you turn the key, dash light goes off after a few seconds.

However if I use a jump start cable on the battery positive terminal to the 150 amp fusible link as that is the easiest place to get my jump cables on to it starts and runs fine. That explains why it jump starts and then cuts out when I remove the jump leads, also why if it was running with the battery as is in situ why it will not run with the battery disconnected.

At each of the fusible links I can measure 14 odd volts.

Any ideas on what to check next guys I really need to try and get this car up and running for her ASAP.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Think I may have found the culprit, there is no continuity on the 150amp fusible link, this is what I believe provides power to the engine fusebox via the large positive cable from the fusible link to the engine bay fuse box. The large red cable going from point a to point b i.e battery to fusebox kind of gives the game away I think. Hence why jumping the positive to the side of the fusible link that feeds the fusebox makes it start and run.

Just need to find somewhere to get a 150 amp fusible link and I am sure it will live.

Anyone care to confirm this?

Cheers
 
Well Frankenstein the Fiat lives again after replacing the 150amp fusible link, shame I had to resort to a scrap yard as no one sells them.

But again today it would not fire up, once started it is fine but cold weather no chance without a bump start or easy start.

So did a quick leakback test today, running for about 2 mins and quite a fair amount of diesel captured, I know its not an accurate test but gives an indication injectors are on way out I think.



So what do you think either way it is going to be got rid of and a replacement car as she is just fed up with it now.
 
Should probably add they are 100ml bottles and the car has done over 120K miles no history of injector we know of.
 
did you tip out and repeat test once diesel was in all 4 tubs?
if I remember right its drip drip drip so if one was filling while others were filling tubing?.
here were mine a few years ago
idle for 5 mins
injector test idle 5 mins  with % on.JPG
2000rpm for 2 mins
injector test 2000rpm with % on.JPG
a good injector cleaner ran on near empty tank may help but if you've had enough it may be extra money you don't want to spend, especially if its going.
some data for tests here but wont relate to a diy leak back test, looking at the values though it has a large spread at idle at 9.0 to 20 so if you count max value as 100% and min value could be 45% of it ?
id like to see results closer than yours though, but wouldn't be jumping into shelling out more
 
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have seen a couple of jtds that wouldn't start with passing egr valves, ok after blank fitted.
possible next quickest thing.
search but as temp test ive seen guys advising soda cans , just don't leave it in there too long as could fracture or melt, if it sorts it time for a better blank.
also seen guys strip and clean them and still have success after blanking them.
 
Not had time to reply but the car is going in part ex in the next few days she really has had enough of it. Hope the Vauxhall Astra estate serves her better but time will tell. So will probably not be here again after today but thanks to all those who have helped when it has been needed. Cheers guys.
 
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