Technical JTD Cam belt woes

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Technical JTD Cam belt woes

lancianut666

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Hi
I have been doing a bit of work on the old fiat and finally came to the cambelt change. I had read the advice on changing the waterpump at the same time so I had a new pump, cam belt kit and an alternator belt all ready along with some of that pink stuff from Fiat. Bit fiddly but managed to get the engine stripped down as far as the water pump. i had read a post saying the hex head bolts holding the pump in would be tight as they are loctited. Well the first one needed the trolley jack handle on the end of the tommy bar to get enough leverage to get it out. The other one refused to play ball and the allen key just lunched the inside of the bolt head... so after 3 hours I managed to get the bolt out using a drift and a 2lb club hammer. I was just glad it never sheared off in the head. So some new bolts are on order and I should have them on Thursday so the next installment will be Friday.
 

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(y) for getting the essentials done, if can ask what mileage are you doing the change at ??
The problem bolt for myself when tackling the task was the cam position sensor bolts which as you found out no doubt are loctited in also, managed to get one undo and that gave enough space to get waterpump out, did not have any trouble with water pump bolts and was the origenal pump I was replacing with the belt kit like yourself least you found enough space to encourage the culprit bolt out with a trusty heavy mallet as could of been even worse if the bolt had sheared in half,
Job done for a few years
 
Hi at 103,000 miles, it was done 5 years ago by a nice Fiat dealer. the old belt feels a bit dried out so good idea to change it out. got the new water pump bolts today so will be back on the tools tomorrow..
 
Looks like I be doing mine on age of belt kit rather than mileage next time also as not getting a great deal of use from the motor, it all goes t gether with out the need of any special tools and you will have find some info in the guides section if needed,
.
Not sure if you have removed a hose to drain the coolant yet, for myself I found that the bottom hose on the rad very awkward to undo the clip on and being a plastic part going connecting to the rad opted for disconnecting the bottom hose from the rad where it connects to the engine block which was alot easier to access and saved risking snapping anything made of plastic I then dropped the hose down through the under tray into big bowl to enpty the old rad coolant.
you will need a large jubilee clip doing it this way when it comes to re-attaching this hose from the engine and filling the coolant up and also once you have it back together and filled with coolant the cooling system will require bleeding start at top right of rad is small plastic twist blled screw then small bolt on a metal pipe at front of engine loosen off till fluid flows then do not over tighten when refitting this bolt I think it is very small one and may snap. last one is a screwdriver flat blade towards right side of engine attached to black coolant pipe and made of black plastic. think this one is part of cabin heater..if you do search you should find more info if needs be and I did not get the sequence for bleeding correct but start at lowest point first and it be ok.

Lots to keep you out of trouble now the new waterpump bolts are ready to spanner up, when you say old cam belt looked dry was it cracked or worn to condition it could of caused damage in then ear future, only reason ask is that I that some change it at 4 years and some at 5 year so wonderd what a 5 year belt looked like when it come to my next belt change which is still 2 years to go if go by the 4 year interval..
 
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It's not the worst thing.
I recently had to completely redo the clutch on my Bravo because the new hydraulic throwout bearing decided to blow the seal as we were bleeding it.. squirting brake fluid in the bellhousing.
So we had to do the job a second time.

Replace the bolts with regular hex head bolts (try to find high tensile strength ones). You can put a lot more torque on a hex bold with a box end wrench or a socket, then you can with a smaller allen. It will make much easier for anybody to do the job in the future.
I recently replaced a timing tenssioner bolt wich originally was torx and of course rounded off before getting it out. Had to use the Dremel to cut off the head, removed the tenssioner then used mole grips on what was left of the bolt.
 
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sounds like a lucky escape there, I had visions of having to take the engine out if the old hex bolt had sheared or I could not remove it, but a bit of carefully aimed brute force persuaded it to shift. I will put some pics up of the old belt when we are all back together.
Clarkey
 
Hi all
bit more progress today
water pump in
cambelt on
crank pulley on
The tensioner thing is a pig but sorted in the end
need info on alternator belt now
Clarkey
 
Hi
thanks for the pic.. just need advice on how to release the tension in the auto tensioner pulley thing enough to get the new belt on. After 4 unsuccessful hrs yesterday I have come to the conclusion I need a much longer 15mm spanner a ring preferably or I need to drop the engine enough to get a socket and a good extension bar on. I ended up yesterday jacking up a open ended 15mm spanner this took some of the tension off but not enough and was a bit scary.
Clarkey
 
It's not really that much tension on it, it's all about the right tool for the right job... if you get a box end/ ring spanner on it you will see it will be much easier.. and more secure. + you can get an extension bar on the spanner but might not have enough room to maneuver.
Use a ring spanner, put something on the handle to make it more comfortable.... like wrap it in a piece of cloth.
 
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I agree a nice new ring spanner is what I need am off to Halfords now to get a 15mm one. I will see if dropping the engine on that side helps. all the nuts and bolts have been out so are free after the cambelt change. thanks for the advice
Clarkey
 
Hi all
the auxiliary belt is on!!! the trick was to lower the engine enough to get a proper 15mm socket on the tensioner, a couple of extension bars, a bottle jack and it was on. just need to charge the battery and top the water up and we will see if the beast will start.....
 

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Now for the good news fired the beast up today no problems get on! have changed all the headlamp bulbs and the front foglamps but the front fogs still don't work you can hear a relay clicking but no lights ah well. just got the handbrake cable to adjust tighten the wheels up and give the car a little run out. so jobs done this session
2 rear calipers and pads replaced
gearbox oil changed
engine oil and filter changed
clutch pedal pressure clip changed still clicks but not as bad bit disappointed with this as it took almost a day to do..
pollen filter changed.
air filter cleaned out with hoover
changed 2 drop links on front suspension
changed cam belt and tensioner and idler pulley
changed water pump
changed auxiliary belt
all bulbs in headlamp clusters except small sidelamps how do they comeout again?
just the aircon to sort Oh and the rumbling whining snatching from the front end wheel bearing or driveshaft?
 
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