When fitting a replacement rear caliper how can you ensure that the flexible brake hose doesn't get twisted when the caliper is screwed on to the conical connector?

Only real way is to slacken the brake pipe at the other end and twist it in line. Little tip - wedge the brake pedal down a little before starting, this stops the brake fluid running out.

Thanks. Is it easy to do that (twisting the pipe in line) without causing fluid leakage?

You can spin the break caliper around the flexihoze to screw it in. Works also

Esaus said:

You can spin the break caliper around the flexihoze to screw it in. Works also

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Yes, that's what I will do, but once before (0n another car) this caused the flexihose to be twisted when the caliper was in the fitted position.

As Maggers says above, loosen the union where the metal brake pipe (1a) joins the flexible hose (2b). Also, loosen the nut that secures the hose to the bracket (2a). That will allow the hose to turn while screwing it into the caliper. After the hose is tight in the caliper, retighten the nut and the union. The hose should not be twisted once refitted.

Some fluid will leak while the union is loose, but you'll have to bleed the new caliper anyway.
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its a pain in the arz, I fitted two new rears and found that both would always end up being twisted no matter what position you started spinning the caliper onto the hose......you need to loosen both ends as shown in the thumb from davren......imo you should always take the time to drain the brake system and replace with new brake fluid and bleed whenever doing brake work such as this......good luck

ps.....i needed to use penetrating spray to loosen the union at 2b in the diagram as completely jammed with rust and crud and without it it would just try and twist everything around it

Well, just fitted new rear left rear caliper and replaced both rear discs. I was lucky with the caliper. After I had spun it on to the flexihose the hose was not twisted when the caliper was in the fitting position. This meant I didn't have to undo the union between the flexihose and the first piece of solid metal brake line. Just a comment if you have to do this- you can't unscrew the hex on the flexihose at the junction bracket because it is held in place by 4 fixed tabs in the bracket itself. What you need to do is undo the flare nut of the metal pipe and then prise out a removable a tab which holds the flexihose to the bracket. Once this is out of the way the flexihose can pull away from the bracket and be turned to straighten it if it is twisted.
I used a Thor dead head rawhide hammer to get the discs off - it was so easy with one blow; didn't even have to turn the disc to hit it all round.

glad it worked out.....i always ended up with the hose badly or slightly twisted so had to loosen at both ends to get it spot on.....thankfully my disks came off really easy, did you fully bleed the system in the end?

Put abot 250ml of new fluid through the replaced caliper so the reservoir got almost completely renewed with fluid. I had bled the whole system not long ago.

Anyone know where you can get new rear caliper mounting brackets (the thing with the slider pins as opposed to the thing with the piston)?

Wrecking yards have them most of the time.