Battery and brake light is OK and OBD is on the way from China!

The thing that puzzling me with my fault is that I don't get any warning until i release the break pedal, and only when engine is on. Nothing is shown in MAR position, only when engine is on, and not until break is released. Then warning stays on.

Is this wierd? Wouldn't I get a warning directly if it was a ABS sensor? And break light wouldn't work if it was the switch?

Do the brake lights work every time? If you sit and just press and release 20 or 30 times do the lights come on everytime?
Also does it happen with the engine on but sat still or just when you're moving

It happends the very first time I release break with engine on (still or not), but not before. I'll check the break light again but I did 10 or so test yesturday.

I had a similar problem! It was a faulty switch near the brake pedal. It could be a faulty batery as well.

I checked break light again, no problem. Also battery is new and deliver ampere and voltages that's well enough. Do you've a part number or something to this switch? Is it THE break switch? If so, shouldn't I have break light problems too? I figure it has to do with the pedal hence I get no warning what so ever before I release the break pedal, but it don't mach that problem

Might be the switch is not quite 'lined up' (not sure thats the right word)

Deckchair5 said:

ADJUSTING THE SWITCH
Once installed, remember to adjust the centre plunger. To do this, push the brake pedal down out of the way, then with long nosed pliers, pull the switch centre plunger down and out further, then gently release the brake pedal with out pulling it up and the switch will ratchet set itself

Click to expand...

Give that a go

Will do. Thanks!

yeah i agree look at the brake switch, when mine failed i still had the middle light work but the normal lights were not (im sure the middle one contolled by the computer body), i didnt have any faults, but the other car had the normal lights work but the centre light didnt and it caused the abs failure warning.

I think the abs waits for the signal that the brakes have been activated when the centre brake lights come on, if that fails to light it throws the whole system out.

roy lovelock said:

im sure the middle one contolled by the computer body

Click to expand...

Other way round Roy.

The high level brake light (F40) is controlled directly from the brake pedal switch (I30) via a link between pins A15 and D5 inside the engine compartment fuse box (B2).

The normal brake lights (F30 & F31) are controlled from pins E32 & E22 of the Body Computer (M1).

I believe the high level brake light illuminates a fraction of a second before the normal ones do. Not sure if that's because of a delay in the BC or because LEDs in the high level light, illuminate faster that the filament bulbs in the normal brake lights.
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Wife got car today so I haven't had time to check pedals yet. But it sounds on you all that there should be an issue with the break lights if it was the switch, but both working for me (20 times test). Is it really wice to mess with it when it works correctly?

As you can see from the wiring diagram above, the switch (I30) consists of 2 seperate switches, one normally open and one normally closed.

Terminals 4 & 2 control the brake lights, and terminals 1 & 3 are used by the engine management ECU, and cruise control (if fitted).
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Can't say that I fully understand the diagram, but now when you mention it.. I'll check. Thanks.

I did a check on the switches, but I'm not sure what to look for.. Only thing I can think of is a loose cable and that the switch isn't attached to the pedal when it's all the way down. Any thoughts regarding these images & video? :worship:

Switch 1: (what's the loose cable for?)


Switch 1, Break all the way down:


Switch 2:

It has fixed itself. Wife got wheelspin when accelerating and EPS kicked in although it was faulty, and now ABS & ESP fault is gone.

I was reading in the manual this morning (had car for 2 weeks an been underneath it half of that time), that if you detached the battery you need to do a ABS calibration by turning steeringwheel 1/4 clockwice and counter clockwice, or ABS will fail? I detached it many times and never done that, maybe that was the problem? Either way I had fault 6/7 fixed :slayer: