HI guys,


just thought I would post some words up with regards changing the Stilo JTD Thermostat...


....its EVIL.


What a huge pig of a job. Sure, to look at it, seems reasonable which is why I set about it at 1pm this afternoon. Left an unfinished job at 630pm.


Everything about the job is made as awkward as possible, the hose clips are horrific, the tightness of the hoses and length of the plastic pipes are horrible and despite ALL that, it transpired that in fact you have to remove/loosen most of the EGR from back to front.


Why?


well, on mine the EGR exhaust pipe from the bottom of the egr to the front of the engine has TWO brackets, on eat the rear where you simply CANNOT see it and one at the front...where? YUP, OVER the lower bolt of the thermostat. The thermostat only has two bolts holding it in place, top one is a doddle, bottom one is mean, nasty and downright WHYYYY.


Lets put it this way, despite removing the exhaust bit both ends (which is a pig as it is) and loosening the egr before that, the amount of movement you have to get the egr exhaust bracket away so you can remove the thermostat is about as minimal as you can imagine. How did I do it? I got a screw driver and a hammer, and BEAT THE HELL out of the bracket to flatten it as best I could - then I had difficulty wiggling the long reach 13mm socket in over the bracket bolt onto the thermostat bolt to get it out.


THEN, getting the thing out is just a marvel of badness. The pipes are short and awkward at the back, ok at the front, VERY tight to remove and those host clips MY GOD WHY??


so, horrible job I regret starting but on the flip side im glad I didn't take it to a garage because although its the first time ive done it on this car I can see even an experienced mechanic would still have difficulty - its in the design.


SO, I have removed the thermostat, fitted my new one with new hose clips but I need two more, one for the big pipe at the front and one for a very awkward pipe where the clip came undone.


evil job.

I just hope you took some pictures to make a guide!

I keep putting mine off for fear it will be as you have described!!

sorry! believe me it was the plan BUT it was cold, miserable and turned into an arse of a job. Ill take some photos later though of all the awkward bits.


actually, I do have one confusion - where is the rad cap, or is everything done via the coolant bottle (filling up etc)?

Clivvy said:

actually, I do have one confusion - where is the rad cap, or is everything done via the coolant bottle (filling up etc)?

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Yes, the radiator doesn't hold the expansion tank itself.

No rad cap as you say fill via expansion bottle cap slowely till correct level and fll as level lowers after bleeding by plastic bleed screws located as below there is a thread hidden somewhere on here with good pics if extra help needed
1- top right side pointing back at engine of rad looking at from front you know when you look at it you have found it ..one on mine was more of a hand twist black plastic type screw than flat screwdriver type screw you would expect to find

2- back right side of engine located on one of coolant pipes you know when you see it.flat blade screw driver for this one

3- brass bleed screw 8mm with copper washer located on metal section of pipe running across front of engine above turbo/exhaust stuff careful not to over tighten and snap same as plastic ones
not sure on the correct sequence but would presume start from lowest bleed screw first and think that would be rad first.and remembering from when did mine at coolant change think was done as above loosen screws till fluid runs out with no air like doing home radiators if you ever done them...then top up expansion bottle

thanks for info on changing thermo least will be prepared when time comes to do mine.

cheers chaps, that helps a lot - I have seen those bleed screws so as said I will start at the bottom and work my way up


I assume we bleed it while the engine is running, but as with other cars do we leave the coolant filler cap off during the process?

Did mine Clivvy with engine running and expansion bottle cap off, bled coolant just after themo had become open and was sending coolant round system.and feel top hose to rad has become warm is way I checked for coolant running round system...no idea if this is correct way to do it but worked fine for me with no problems since, just keep an eye on coolant level as you do it and top up as needed to save getting any air in system you would be bleeding to get rid of any air in system
When finished bleeding air out put cap back on expansion bottle and let motor idle for few minutes then top up if needed

hi chaps, quick update - the job is done!


Had to buy some new jubilee clips to finish the job, but this afternoon got everything tightened and topped up - hardly had to bleed the system but ill be checking it again after a good 20 miles or so. Temp got right up to half way and maintained that position unless I turned the heating up to full and position 4, but fast idle plus that the gauge started to climb so everything seems to be working well - just need to actually drive to ensure all is ok. Nice to feel hot air coming through the vents though, I think the stat I fitted was 82 or 88 degree - wish I had paid more attention.

another quick update. before my temp needle never went much over 1/4, sometimes went halfway between that and the halfway mark.


Now, it goes steady to halfway and stays there, I have hot air out the vents, and mpg has gone up (had dropped previously)


no issues in terms of bleeding the system, after 60 miles I only need to top up the bottle a tiny bit.

I'll change mine this week. Is there any guide on how to bleed the system before change? I guess there's some bolt to release the fluid? At radiator? Is it done with engine on or off? It might be a stupid questions but I'm new to repairing vehicles..

By the way.. isn't it a waste to change the whole unit, if there's only a spring within that's jamming?
I found this in the thermostat section on a page, is it placed wrong or is it posible to hook up with existing unit somehow?
http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/wahler/315187D.html

seriously, its NOT a waste to change the whole unit. I wouldn't tamper with one, the actual thermostat is well fixed in the housing and the work involved to remove the housing suggests to me you may as well replace the whole thing.
you bleed the system like any other car. Start at lowest point, which on these isn't really relevant (both bleed points look almost level to me). Basically, change thermostat, refill fluid to MAX in bottle. With cap off, start engine, put heating on full and race a little (fast idle) then monitor. Once it starts getting warm, turn the bleed screw behind the thermostat so fluid comes out then tighten. Again, monitor. fast idle again a few times, basically to get engine temp up to half way. Monitor rad pipe temp both sides, when warm check and bleed at radiator which is right below you in line (almost) with the thermostat - its like a little tap (though you may not need to do this, I didn't) and top up the fluid. Put cap back on, monitor to ensure needle stays half way, whack the heating on and off, the needle should drop a bit but ensures circulation around the system.


So long as the needle max's at half way, you're probably good to go but id go for a 2/3 miles drive with the engine at operating temp, then check the levels again - will probably drop a little. wait until it cools down, top up and you're probably sorted.

Got it. Thanks.

Cheers mate this is a job i also have to complete, you have made my mind up to leave it, i have to re do my cam belt in the summer and water pump, if it was easy i would have done it now but i will leave it and do all of them in one hit.
I find it so hard to understand that a modern car makes the simplest jobs so difficult and expensive, changing a thermostat on my 47 year old car is approx 9pounds and takes about ten mins. And they call that progress...

I totally agree Roy, some cars just make things so difficult, others so easy. I admit, if I had LOOKED better I probably wouldn't have done the job but in saying that I wonder how much it would have cost a garage to do?I'd say at least 2 hours garage labour - remove EGR piping/exhaust/bracket, remove thermostat/piping/empty, replace, fit new clips, re fit EGR system and re fill and test.


My car does get up to temp now though, half way needle and eventually plenty of heat through the vents. Still takes a good mile or two to get hot but it is a lot better than before.

yup, 2 hours is about right with experience - access to the egr/bracket is very difficult (the rear bracket) and that is what got me (that and the rain/cold)

It seems to be easier on the 2,4.. The selespeed accumulator bracket is close but I hope to be able to access it anyway. Anyone done it on an abarth?

Yes I've done it on mine and it's even easier with a manual version. The only issue I had is with the hose clips.

Just switched mine but now I have a low ticking sound from the engine, I'm quite sure it's new problem. Any ideas? I'm still bleeding out air from the system but I'm really unsure..

Revolty said:

It seems to be easier on the 2,4.. The selespeed accumulator bracket is close but I hope to be able to access it anyway. Anyone done it on an abarth?

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I need to do same as you on my 2.4. If you change it before me please document all steps if you are able so that we could help other people.