MASSIVE problems when trying to fit 2.4 clocks in my 1.6 today

• No 2nd 'White' connector in the car loom that i can find
• CC inop even after activation and proxi align (replacement 2nd hand revirginised ECU fitted before dial fitment)
• rev counter runs upto about 2500 and 'glitches' then fails to read revs correctly thereafter (have to manually move the needle to reset)
• unable to change the settings as it only gives me the options for 'light sensitivity', 'speed limit', exit menu and one other which i cant remember
• neither smal LCD panels are displaying correctly although i fear i fried them whilst changing dash LEDs but im hoping its due to a missing wire or something in the white connector
• on inital start up of the engine coolant temp flicks round to max and beeps + MFD warning before swiftly returning to the correct temp

so thats about where im at with it, ive converted the dials to white LEDs (1206s) for dial, needle and small LCD screen illumination they all work perfectly.

any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated... i have PM'd #yellostilo for his advice as i know he has fitted them to a 1.6 and reportedly had no problems but i dont know how many more of you wonderful lot have something to bring to the table

ask marcthompson as he fitted 1 in his stilo.

no he hasnt... i only just shipped him my spare set it was the last piece to his puzzle.

Sound potentially like a duff set. Proxi alignment should sort them. Another thing I'd recommend as it fixed the screen fade on the one I fitted to our 1.4 is disconnecting the battery overnight and putting it on charge - even if it's already fully charged.

As I've swapped my 1.2s behind-the-dash loom for that of a 2.4 Abarth I have the two plugs for the cluster you sent me richydraper but even at that I can't see that being a problem for you as (well in my case anyway) it only has two wires going into it; don't have my laptop with eLearn on it so I can't screenshot the pin designations. The MFD display should display the necessary settings menu depending on whether you have a CN+ fitted or not - have you fitted your new CN? As the majority of settings can be set through the unit I think the number of settings available through the cluster are reduced. I'm not sure as I've not tried my cluster out yet.

Can you send me a picture of the new LEDs in your cluster?

#MarkThompson4 I've been back out to have a play... heres step 1 of the install...


as you can see the white looks good! although i kinda regret removing the red LEDs that illuminate the needles, the whites i replaced them with arent quite what i hoped as there is too much fade on the needle for my liking... if i can find the original reds then they will go back in...

as it stands ive fixed the Rev needle issue... id pushed it on to far and it was fouling so it would lock up and do funny twitchy things. but you can clearly see the issue with the LCD Displays... there is no markings on them relating to model number or manufacturer so i cant even buy a replacement. im pretty sure it was my heavy handedness whilst removing to get to the LEDs that lead to the left LCD display becomming dodgey. but as for the right one... i think i may not have ran enough solder into the connection. il be purchasing some solder wick soon and when that comes il have another bash at it.

i gave it ANOTHER proxi alignment with MES and the menu started working so thats fixed.

now i still have the CC issue... i took a look in the engine ECU and it's Activated and it recognises all the positions of the switches... the issue lies with the 2.4 cluster. 'Cruise control activated' momentarily pops up on the MFD on initial key on but disappears rapidly and never returns regardless of what you do with the switches!

it still has the coolant high temp fault momentarily on start up.

but another thing i have noticed is the mileage... my old mileage was 112,### this one seems to be reading 10?,??? i thought the milage pulled itself in with a proxi alignment... evidently not. UNLESS its related to the missing wiring from the white plug.

maybe i have changed too much because i put the replacement ECU in too... meh it might pull itself in when i get the original ECU repaired

richydraper said:

but another thing i have noticed is the mileage... my old mileage was 112,### this one seems to be reading 10?,??? i thought the milage pulled itself in with a proxi alignment... evidently not. UNLESS its related to the missing wiring from the white plug.

Click to expand...

No you have to manually write it, and then do another proxi alignment.

right... ok ill have a play with MES in simulated mode! thanks MEP

richydraper said:

right... ok ill have a play with MES in simulated mode! thanks MEP

Click to expand...

Also worth noting you have to write in it km, not miles, so might need to get a calculator out

divide by 5, times by 8

I think the white connector is only used for the Abarth oil pressure and oil temperature gauges.

When you took the needles off, did any of the stepper motor spindles come out with them? If so, it could have damaged the housing the spindle runs in causing the needle to jump.

The missing segments in the displays suggest that you may have shorted some tracks on the PCB, or splashed solder in the wrong place(s) while desoldering/soldering the LEDs.
.

thanks dave i feared as much ill take a closer look when i have them out again... im not touching them untill i get some 'desoldering wick' and some more solder.

the needles came out clean no issues there... if you rotate them anticlockwise there an absolute doddle to take off its just taking the leap of faith to do the first one. ive sorted that anyway... when i rebuilt them i pushed the needle on a little too far. it was binding against the little black 'collar' that sits below the needle head and dial face. all sorted now, i just have the CC and initial Coolant Temp warning to deal with once ive sorted the LCDs

the high coolant temperature warning at startup is a software bug which Fiat never bothered to solve as it just occurs for a very short period.
You can solve this by fitting the delay circuit ( in between the switched power wire ) which used to be combined with a retrofitted CN+ (see Guides) - just adapt the R/C values (higher R,lower C) to obtain a delay time of 2 to max.2,5 sec. because the instrument cluster has to be found by the bodycomputer within 4 seconds after key on.
Regarding the Cruise Control - go to the ecu menu and choose erase vehicle configuration - that way you will force the ecu to relearn the CC when this is stored as present in the bodycomputer.
If it was retrofitted use FES to activate it but read the procedure at the right field very carefully because you have to do this in the right order.
good luck !

Most Easterly Pandas said:

No you have to manually write it, and then do another proxi alignment.

Click to expand...

the proxy alignment is not nessesary after a mileage correction as there is no change of the car's configuration.

Thanks Yellostilo,
i will be retrofitting CN+ but before i do its getting the same treatment as the rest of my interior. I need a replenishment of LEDs and soldering gear before i start so im off to ebay shortly ive only ever been set up for soldering wiring, and larger components, so this whole SMD malarky is a little challenging with the kit i currently have.

its frustrating as hell thinking i knew what i had to do, doing it and then realising that actually i didnt have all the info/parts to complete it in one go :bang:

i really appreciate all the fresh sets of eyes i've had on it so thanks guys!!

What has happened with most of us changing to the Abarth cluster is that the display has faded. It starts out of nowhere, and gets worse during a weeks period, unitl you can't read a thing of it. If this happens, pull the fuse for the cluster and reinsert it. This seems to re-calibrate it and it won't happen again.

Morty Mort said:

What has happened with most of us changing to the Abarth cluster is that the display has faded. It starts out of nowhere, and gets worse during a weeks period, unitl you can't read a thing of it. If this happens, pull the fuse for the cluster and reinsert it. This seems to re-calibrate it and it won't happen again.

Click to expand...

Yep, I had the same, although disconnected the battery and charged it for a few hours which had the same effect

just a quick update...
resetting vehicle configuration brought my CC back

Connect to Engine ECU > Adjustments > Select 'Vehicle Configuration Reset' > 'Execute'

Thank you #Yellowstilo