Yes maf will be bypassed reading low and power would be down.
Is it fixable or at least able to tape up with gaffa tape to test?
I wouldnt advise running like that for long though.
Maybe some silicone self amalgamating tape might be permanent seal depending how and where its broke or split.
Otherwise a breakers yard for another pipe?

will tape up tonight and see what it does fingers crossed

Just dont leave it with tape on forever, if it comes off and sucks something solid into turbo compressor its goodnight for turbo and possibly engine.
Even a little leak after filter could b letting small particles of dust etc into engine and will wear compressor blades.
A good tape up job should prove its ok (original problem)then fix properly.
Looking for splits on inlet pipe was mentioned in post 14 4 weeks ago is this break new or missed

Also re fuel pressure grandguy , these modern diesels run at around 270-300 bar pressure even on idle , maximum around 1300-1400 bar on the 8v 1600bar for the 8v

I say it often but diagnostic software such as fes/mes is priceless for diy diagnosis.
Where a low maf reading comparative to boost might have been found.

new had this all off twice now and never seen it but just been pulling all the pipes again and it came off in my hand

I will put up this diagram of pipe in question so readers have idea.

Pipe 14 from oil breather
Pipe 10 down to vapour trap under airbox

that picture is great is that from a stilo as mine is set up different to that

Someone had posted in a catch tank thread, looking closely its shown wrong dotted lines make beleive its fitted to turbo outlet not inlet.
But id think the hose from maf to turbo inlet and the 2 pipes joining it are the same?
Whats different if so?

Aye that picture looks like mine... Id like a part number for it.... Ill maybe pull it all out again and see if i can spot any other leaks

What about this one?
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/268/jtd8vairfilter.png/
As for part number have you looked on eper.
I wouldnt be suprised on £50+ new at dealers £10 from a breakers.

What about this one?

As for part number have you looked on eper.
I wouldnt be suprised on £50+ new at dealers £10 from a breakers.
This is mine off car a few years ago(16v jtdm)so may be slightly different.
http://imageshack.us/images/removed_photo_big.png

Try these for part numbers
Off an 8v i think i wanted for bit for a mod
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/4624/wzn4.jpg
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/223/0ntl.jpg
As said cant guarantee if right for your car but handy to ask for a price.

Right guys major help needed been under the car tonight to see if anything was wrong and i have found that the bolt that holds the oil feed pipe has snapped off how can i get it out oil is going every where

Can u get vice grips onto whats left?

Daveystrings said:

Can u get vice grips onto whats left?

Click to expand...

no mate snapped inside the hole

Are you talking this bango feed bolt at the turbo
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/7851/ya6p.jpg
If so its not going to be that tight in the threads, as it seals on the two copper washers, so if the bolt broke off whats left may come out with a screwdriver or even a knife if it wedges inside it may grip, if you know any local engineering places you need an 'easyout'
The other problem is how did it brake?
Was it running when it broke?
Has any debris from the brake gone into the turbo housing, after that bolt is a very small orifice to restrict oil flow.
Any bits block this hole and turbo will die quickly.
You will need another banjo bolt make sure the threads are the same pitch.

no the bolt is the one on that come from the engine block

Been looking back for some pics
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=146700&d=1340547899
When i ordered bolts off eper numbers i ended up with a bolt wrong length and wrong thread, ended up using old bolt that was supplie with turbo.
Dont turn engine over at all it will be losing pressure and making a mess.
The engine block bolt has a fine mesh screen inside.
When you get a new one make sure its in and clean.
A guy had a problem with that bolt leaking he felt it had damaged threads from overtightning i beleive he managed to get a longer bolt to reach good threads.
Was it your bolt or one off new turbo?
This is the one then
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/1779/ayxi.jpg
Same type of banjo bolt so shouldnt be tight in threads.

it was the original bolt no problem going in went on a was tight just guessing i over tightened it question is how the hell do i get it out

Just try a shallow angle knife so it wedges inside and give it a turn, its parralel thread only went tight by compressing the hose end and copper washers
Now its broke off probably just spin out.
If your taking a chance just replacing this bolt, you can always take turbo drain pipe off and confirm oil is still flowing by cranking with injectors unplugged.

does anyone know the size of the bolt or part number so i can get a new one