I was driving up to blackpool on friday from swansea. about half way there i felt a jolt as if the engine was pulling against itself (no fuel??) and all power went from the car. I then had a beep beep "loose connection" error pop up and the EM light came on but went straight back off. I pulled onto the hard shoulder and tried to turn her over... she was just turning and turning but no fire. after 5 mins she started so trundled off again only to get about a mile on and same again (loose conn and lights) Called the AA and by time he got there he turned the key and she started. :bang: But we agreed for safety id hire a car and he would tow mine to the garage. Any ideas what the causes of this happening could be??
I trust the garage iv left it with but im not sure how clued up they would be on a stilo so a bit of advice may be handy to point them in the direction.
Cheers lads!! :worship:

sorry to read this chap, glad you're ok though. Can you tell us what engine it is please?

It's a 1.9 jtd 2002 dynamic.
Sorry only now replying. Been working and trying not to stress about the car lol. :beer:

would be good to get it plugged in and any fault codes posted..you may well have a faulty Crank Position Sensor and quite a few threads on here on the sensor..it seems a faulty CPS sensor tends to kill the engine when warm but once engine has cooled a little the motor fires to life until warm again..loose connection may of appeared also as the engine died and you free wheeled to safety..but fault codes would show if CPS is at fault and if not any error codes may well help you trace the fault.
As the motor is in garage now they should be able to read fault codes clear them and check if any re-appear though would advise to let them know about CPS sensor as said if this is at fault it should show when they read the codes though usually EM light would stay on not sure why it would the EM light would go off and you are still not able to start car until cool

:yeahthat: I was going to say ECU plugs for the "loose connection", but it does sound like the crank sensor. i had to the same symptomson my Seicento, it would cut out when i got to a certain speed on the motorway or when it warmed back up. i was on an off the hard shoulder every 400yards! the AA came out and said Crank Sensor. explained how it worked etc.

Its poo when your car breaks down

hope you get it sorted without to much cost

agreed with above, could be the CKP and if so, at least its a cheap part

Ok lads thank You!! I have read up online about the sensor... seems as if it causes the type of fault i was getting a LOT!! I will def ask the garage to look at the crank sensor and hopefully that will sort my woes ! Will let you know when I get the car back and go from there (il plug in my multiscan and clear the codes when I get the car back and post results along with running and stopped readings) Thank you guys. At least Iv got some light at the end of the tunnel now.

loose connection in fiats just means 'lost communication' with... well... anything really... ecu or component

does sound crank sensor related and the crank sensor doesnt always throw a fault either so putting a code reader on may not bring up anything conclusive.

get them to warm the sensor with a heat gun and you should be able to re-create the fault quite easily.

Hi guys!! Garage found crank sensor error code as you predicted.
Crank sensor replaced!! Car has worked since and code cleared (been out and about purposely running it and start stopping it) so far so good!! £40 fitted.
Also plugged in my M.E.S leads when home... Cleared old codes and this is what the remaining reading is saying after 3 fresh starts 3 times.... (3 fresh starts read codes and delete x 3 to make sure the codes stay)

Scanning ...

Engine
Bosch EDC15C7 CF3/EOBD Diesel Injection (1.9, 2.4)
ISO Code: FD 86 15 01 6E
Errors found:
P0110 - Air temperature sensor
P0101 - Air flow meter
P0380 - Board relay, thermostarter or preheat. ECU.

ABS
Bosch ABS 5.7 ASR/TC
ISO Code: 25 86 0D 80 0D

Electric Steering
TRW Electric Power Steering (1)
ISO Code: 52 80 02 80 29

Body
Body Computer Marelli MF
ISO Code: 40 83 8C 80 A4

Dashboard
Instrument Panel Visteon
ISO Code: 32 83 0E 01 19

Other
Driver's Door BITRON
ISO Code: 86 07 04 80 E6

Other
Passenger's Door BITRON
ISO Code: 89 07 83 80 68

COMPLETED



SO .... Im looking at the M.A.S im assuming here now right? and Glow plugs ?

awesome news! yeah, looks like MAF and Glow plugs, not 100% sure about air temp sensor code - probably due to the MAF, must be giving readings slightly out of range.

It finally feels like im winning Clivvy!! Cheers for the help and everything matey!
Will crack on getting the plugs and MAF changed now and fingers crossed...

my advice from stuff that ive picked up on here is buy a decent MAF sensor i.e. Bosch. iirc other MAFs dont last long and it'll end in tears.

obviously if money is an issue... buy the best you can afford!

richydraper said:

my advice from stuff that ive picked up on here is buy a decent MAF sensor i.e. Bosch. iirc other MAFs dont last long and it'll end in tears.

obviously if money is an issue... buy the best you can afford!

Click to expand...

yup, agreed. I can testify to that because I fitted a "cheap" one from ebay just over a year ago and although currently its ok, on hot days giving it some beans up hill, it has logged a code "out of range". only ever done it twice, and always been ok afterwards and never lost power, but point is these sorts of niggles are more likely to occur that if you buy a bosch, but those are three times the price.

mooncheese said:

Also plugged in my M.E.S leads when home...

Scanning ...

Engine
Bosch EDC15C7 CF3/EOBD Diesel Injection (1.9, 2.4)
ISO Code: FD 86 15 01 6E
Errors found:
P0110 - Air temperature sensor
P0101 - Air flow meter
P0380 - Board relay, thermostarter or preheat. ECU.

Click to expand...

Clivvy said:

not 100% sure about air temp sensor code - probably due to the MAF, must be giving readings slightly out of range.

Click to expand...

The intake air temperature sensor is built into the MAF.

Before spending money on a new MAF, disconnect the connector and clean the contacts with electrical contact cleaner. (not WD40 or similar)
.

dont buy cheap sensors, you will end up buying twice!, as Davren says clean your MAF first, i used some electrical solvent cleaner from maplin think it was £4, and a fine artist paint brush!, dont do long blasts with the solvent as it freezes the MAF!.


Always good when its not a an expensive fix!

So when you say clean the connector you mean take the safety screws out and clean the long bit yea? Do I need to give the grill a going at 2 because that looks clean.

mooncheese said:

So when you say clean the connector you mean take the safety screws out and clean the long bit yea?

Click to expand...

No... just disconnect the wiring connector from the top of the MAF and clean the both parts of the connector with electrical contact cleaner.

To disconnect the connector, slide the yellow locking clip either left or right (can't remember which), then pull the connector upwards.

If that doesn't cure the problem, then consider removing, and cleaning the inside of the MAF. You don't need to remove the security screws.
.

Ah right with you. Iv done that last night. Don't seem to have changed anything Dav mate. Unfortunately looks like I'll have to buy one. But tbh I'd rather get one than have to fork out for another car because I love the drive I get with the stilo! She's a lil beast!

new MAF it is then! even if money is an issue, at least get a cheap one from Ebay - itll work fine as mine has, just don't be surprised IF it dies after a year!

since that didnt work take the complete maf out and clean, clear the codes an give it a whirl!, i read a few times on a thread that leafs have got up buy the grill/mesh.

worth a try before forking out £70 or more for a new one.