Pandas do you know much about the 1.2 model & if i had the chance to pick 1 up cheap would i be better off with 1 rather than spending money on the 1.6 ? In your opinion.

happyhands said:

Pandas do you know much about the 1.2 model & if i had the chance to pick 1 up cheap would i be better off with 1 rather than spending money on the 1.6 ? In your opinion.

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Yes, the 1.2 is underpowered, but is likly to be a lot less problematic, and cost you less in the long run, although apparently once the ECU has been replaced on the 1.6 they're normally ok.

Yea i've heard that ok.i think that might be the way to go.there's nowhere over in Dublin that i can find sells aftermarket ECU's so it either ebay or main dealer by the looks of it.thanks for the advice Pandas.

Just an update for any1 interested in this problem.after a lot of messing around with wires,relays,fuses etc. my stilo is back to all its glory & driving like a dream.as i said in previous posts i'd tried a lot of tips posted by other users & still had no joy, but after moving the ECU from its original position to the side of the battery box as i also read about on the forum things started to get better.before i could maybe get 30/40 mins constant driving before it cut out but after moving the ECU it went for a couple of hours so i was hopeful.just by chance the brake lights started acting up so i bought a new switch & after replacing the old 1 the car has run perfect for the last 3 weeks with no cut outs so far. (touch wood it lasts) I know some of you might say that was the problem from the start but i took the old switch out & tried it over & over again & it worked fine.the new switch i got was about 8mm longer than the original 1 so i was on the verge of bringing it back to the shop but i said i'd try it & it worked perfect.the lugs on the sides of the switch had to be cut back about 2mm but as i say its working perfect the last 3 weeks so i hope this might be some help to any1 else with this problem.

Did you adjust the new switch correctly? The switch plunger will be a different length once it's been adjusted.
.

I also have cut out problems and an waiting for a new ECU. Exactly which switch did you change?

the brake lights started acting up so i bought a new switch

Happyhands, have you cleaned the D4 connector? They're notorious for causing heaps of electronic faults on most Stilos. It's the big multi-pin connector underneath the engine bay fuse board, which pivots up once you take out the screw.
Really obvious one, sorry if it already got mentioned elsewhere.

Hi all, my 1.6 sport cut out early this morning, my wife was driving so she probably wouldn't have noticed any messages displayed.
It started ok after she left it for a few minutes.
The remote key stopped working about a year ago, it seems it is a code issue. I wonder if that is related.
I'm not trying to high jack this post, I just thought it may be worth adding my fault to the original posters fault incase there is a connection (no pun intended)

If I don't get any definitive answer here I will try all the things that have hopefully fixed the original posters problem.

Thanks ken

in most cases it's an ecu fault - replacement is the solution....
you might check the crankshaft sensor before replacing the ecu.
When you can't find a replacement for a decent price i can supply a virginised used ecu, further info by pm...

Kennif Fiat said:

Hi all, my 1.6 sport cut out early this morning, my wife was driving so she probably wouldn't have noticed any messages displayed.
It started ok after she left it for a few minutes.
The remote key stopped working about a year ago, it seems it is a code issue. I wonder if that is related.
I'm not trying to high jack this post, I just thought it may be worth adding my fault to the original posters fault incase there is a connection (no pun intended)

If I don't get any definitive answer here I will try all the things that have hopefully fixed the original posters problem.

Thanks ken

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An immolbiser fault won't cause the car to cut out, only fail to start.

Thanks, not sure what I'm checking for regards the crankshaft sensor but I will look at it.

ken

you may check the air gap (credit card thickness is o.k.) , measure the resistance and check the signal with an oscilloscope but when it fails only occasionally it's still hard to determine if it's faulty - you will only know for sure when you replace it with a new or known-good sensor and test it for a longer period.
But as already mentioned - in most cases the ecu itself is faulty - relocating the replacement ecu against the left side of the battery box will prevent the same problems with the new ecu.

Thank you for that. I don't have a manual so I'm not sure which component is the ECU. I'm assuming it's the one with the relays and fuses in rear of the battery box.
Somebody mentioned checking the D4... I have spayed everything with "electrolube" I can see but I can't see anything labeled D4. I don't have a wiring diagram so any guidance gratefully accepted.

Regards ken

Kennif Fiat said:

Thank you for that. I don't have a manual so I'm not sure which component is the ECU. I'm assuming it's the one with the relays and fuses in rear of the battery box.
Somebody mentioned checking the D4... I have spayed everything with "electrolube" I can see but I can't see anything labeled D4. I don't have a wiring diagram so any guidance gratefully accepted.

Regards ken

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A search on here will reval all that you ask