General Is anyone from Hertforshire who thinks that can help me?

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General Is anyone from Hertforshire who thinks that can help me?

Yes,everything is exactly as in the pictures.The bearing is set properly.I've rechecked 3 times as is been almost 2 months since the problem persist.I've read on a forum that the car should not move when you steering.But mine Is moving.The front,is eighter lifting or going down when I am steering.
 
Simple way to test is get someone to move steering while you check rear wishbone bushes.

Just done Spring and top bush KYB no problem. Picture may help.
 

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Simple way to test is get someone to move steering while you check rear wishbone bushes.
Just done Spring and top bush KYB no problem. Picture may help.

So you are saying that with the car on the four wheels someone should steer and I should look at the wishbone?How can I tell is not good?
Can you tell me what engine do you have and what year.And do you know what was the length of the spring?Thanks
 
Mine is a 1.9 jtd 85 kw 2001 5 doors hatchback.And I founded until now 3 different sizes.
479 front,464 front,481 front which at this moment are on the car.
330 back which are on the car,351 which I ordered and I am waiting to arrive,and there is one more size but I cant remember now.
The trouble is,on the front the distance between wheel arch and the tyre is 10 cm.On the back is only 5 cm.And the distance from the ground to the wheel arch is the same on both sides(front and rear) 69 cm.i don't know what to do.I will end up spending a lot of money and will be no difference.I have a pair of springs brand new which didn't fit so now are in the shed.A bit more and I can make myself a comfy bed:))
I have looked to the wishbone and its moving from left to right. Dont know whats the limit.
 
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Springs are specified by the force needed to compress them, lbs/inch, or kg/cm. Heavier engine, such as your diesel, will need stronger springs, estate would need stronger than hatch, etc. Length is only a guide as to the strength. Can't compare with the old ones, as they would have compressed a bit. Supplier should have a proper recommendation for your car spec.
Wishbone bush should hardly move at all. That is likely to cause strange wanderings.
You seem to have two issues. Too strong a spring will raise the front too high, which changes the geometry and therefore the handling. Random wanderings is most likely to be suspension mountings, made worse by wrong ride height.
 
Springs are specified by the force needed to compress them, lbs/inch, or kg/cm. Heavier engine, such as your diesel, will need stronger springs, estate would need stronger than hatch, etc. Length is only a guide as to the strength.

Thanks for you reply and for info.I will do tomorrow morning another video with the wishbone bush when steering.The old spring is 478 cm long.
I have the new pair of Sachs springs on the shed which are 479 cm long and I will try to fit it on the one shock,see how it look.I have another question.
After I changed the shocks,spring(the actual ones 481 cm long)and new bearing and top rubber mounting and I had the strut complete(just like in the picture above from our friend)I couldn't turn the top mounting pretty much at all.It should be like that?
I am thinking that because the spring is a bit to hard and slightly longer,it will push the lower mounting and the bearing into the top mounting and that's why I couldn't turn it.And depending on the car balance sometimes the steering "skip".Because the weight of the car is compressing the spring which will not press the bearing with all the strength.Its just a thought.I don't know.
The trouble with the supplier is that first time they sold me the Sachs ones,then the Kyb which are 481 cm long.And as long that I scratch it they will not exchange the springs.
I will try to do a good video in the morning with the bushes and I will be back.Thanks
 
The old spring is 478 cm long. I have the new pair of Sachs springs on the shed which are 479 cm long (the actual ones 481 cm long)

A few centimetres difference in the unladen length of the spring is not going to cause the problems you describe.

Fiat specify at least 8 different front spring for the Stilo range. For JTD versions there's even a different spring for cars with air conditioning. Unfortunately, most aftermarket suppliers adopt a "one size fits all" approach and supply the same, or a limited range of springs for all versions.

After I changed the shocks, spring (the actual ones 481 cm long) and new bearing and top rubber mounting and I had the strut complete (just like in the picture above from our friend) I couldn't turn the top mounting pretty much at all. It should be like that?

Once the strut is fully assembled, you should be able to turn the top part of the rubber mounting in relation to the rest of the strut.

Because of it's tapered and angled shape, the top part should remain stationary in the suspension turret at all times and the bottom part of the rubber mounting and the shock absorber and spring should all turn freely as you operate the steering. That's why the circular roller bearing plate is between the top and bottom parts of the top mounting. If the parts of the mounting were partially or intermittently locked together, it would cause very erratic steering. If this was the case, the top part would be moving inside the turret, but you said previously that the small hole in the top part was visible through the hole adjacent to the turret at all times. Check both sides again with the wheels straight ahead and at an angle. With the wheels at an angle, the hole should still be visible but the 4mm rod will not pass freely through both parts ot the mounting.

The problem could occur if the bearing plate had been fitted upside down, or if any of the 3 parts of the top mounting were faulty. I recently fitted new shock absorbers and top mountings to my JTD. For one side I used a SKF top mounting kit that I already had in the garage without any problems. For the other side I bought a First-Line mounting kit which locked as described above. I reassembled the the strut with old original top mounting parts and it was OK.
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When the strut was assembled,but not fitted on the car I could not turn the top mounting.I barely managed to turn it like 1 cm but it came back realy fast.I am sure that the bearing is seated and in the right position.I've made some pictures with the car to see how the strut is.
In the first picture is the car and the wheels are aligned and you can see that the screwdriver is fully in the hole.
The other 4 pictures are with the wheels steered and you can see that the screwdriver is only 1 cm.
I didn't managed to make a video with the bushes,as is not a clear video so you cant tell if it moving or not...
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In the first picture is the car and the wheels are aligned and you can see that the screwdriver is fully in the hole.
The other 4 pictures are with the wheels steered and you can see that the screwdriver is only 1 cm.

If the top part has turned inside the turret, the screwdriver will pass through because the hole moulded on the side of it will not be under the hole adjacent to the turret.

Is the hole visible at all times? i.e. with the wheels straight ahead and at an angle.

Check both sides again with the wheels straight ahead and at an angle. With the wheels at an angle, the hole should still be visible but the 4mm rod will not pass freely through both parts of the mounting.
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Is the hole visible at all times? i.e. with the wheels straight ahead and at an angle.


.[/QUOTE]

Yes.If I open the bonnet and look trough the hole in the car body I can see the hole all the time.So the top mounting is not turning.I have reach to the end of all ideas that might cause this issue of mine,and do not know what to do further.
 
check post 20 as Davren said wheels straight ahead screw driver should pass both parts of mounting top and bottom the top bush should never move when turning steering. only bottom bush moves screw driver will only pass through both bushes when steering is straight ahead only.
 
check post 20 as Davren said wheels straight ahead screw driver should pass both parts of mounting top and bottom the top bush should never move when turning steering. only bottom bush moves screw driver will only pass through both bushes when steering is straight ahead only.

That's exactly what I said.I can see the hole in the top mounting all the time(wheels straight or at an angle).Once I will turn the wheels the top hole is still there,but the screw driver wont go trough all the way,because the lower part of the mounting is turning,and the hollow is not on the same line with the hole.
 
All right.So everything seems to be correct fitted.Then what is the problem that make the car diving as a wheelbarrow?Thanks
 
Hi.I had some time and went to local garage for a diagnostic test,as I had the airbag error on and it was annoying.
The guys from there founded an error which seems to be connected with my issue.
-C1505-Steering Angle Sensor
-C1522-No instrument panel communication
Not sure about the second one,but first one I am 100% sure that might be a problem.
They told me to go to a Fiat dealer.
My question is:
1. is it expensive to go to a dealer?
2. Will they be able to fix it and tell me if the right springs are fitted on the car or not?
3.Do you think that this error might be connected with my issue here?
Thanks in advance
 
Steering angle sensor is part of the electric steering, so may well cause the steering to be vague and wander a bit.
Not caused by front springs sitting a bit high, but that may make the effect of the steering issue greater.
Not sure about the dash communication issue.

Fiat dealer will do same diagnostic test and probably recommend replacement steering motor. Lots of expense, won't fix the ride height. I'd suggest fix the ride height first. Fiat dealer may not be able to cope with ride height issue, unless they have dimensions and a means to measure. They would probably just recommend fitting genuine springs before they would look further.

Somewhere above, I think someone suggested a 4-wheel alignment check. Those guys will be able to advise best. Make some calls, get quotes, go do.

Have you asked the spring manufacturer via their web site?
 
Thanks for the advice.I am waiting for the rear springs to arrive so I will change them,as I know that that I have the wrong ones on the rear.So the ones that should come are 351 mm and the actual ones are 330.As soon as I changed the rear springs I will go for a 4 wheel alignment.Let you know trough the process.I've asked everywere I could,and everyone says it is very different from one to another.Everytime I ordered a pair of spring I did it with the chasis number,engine number,type and all the details.So I am not sure.Thanks
 
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