well, if the car is running ok other than this issue, then yeah it might be worth it, but you would have to really get the engine hot, and give it a prolonged BLASTING down the motorway (safely of course). It might even be worth putting the treatment directly into a new fuel filter-this means the millers will get directly to the injectors undiluted pretty much-this is a trick we in the Nissan 4x4 club use to give the engine injectors a good scrubbing.

the thing I will say about the injector / engine cleaners, is they wont clean carbon deposits. So if your injectors are caked with carbon, then you would either need refurbished injectors, or new ones. I'm not saying that's the issue you have, its just a possibility and with that in mind, don't go mad spending money on injector treatment, but get some cheap stuff and chuck it in.

Right, i popped down to my mates earlier for diagnostics. The MAF is reading correctly, boost pressure is good and fuel delivery is good. Nothing stood out as faulty so the engine management side of things are all fine. He chucked in some injector and fuel system cleaner, only £5 its worth trying. He even took the car out for a drive but it didn't do it!

Phil

philipb82 said:

Right, i popped down to my mates earlier for diagnostics. The MAF is reading correctly, boost pressure is good and fuel delivery is good. Nothing stood out as faulty so the engine management side of things are all fine. He chucked in some injector and fuel system cleaner, only £5 its worth trying. He even took the car out for a drive but it didn't do it!

Phil

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ok, good, but did he go up an incline? Don't forget, when on an incline, fuel in the tank moves back, and if there is a fuel pressure issue-such as pion prick holes in the fuel lines, fuel in the lines will also begin to move back....?!

could be though, that with a good blast and fuel cleaner a blockage if it exists gets cleared and youre sorted, fingers crossed.

Clivvy said:

ok, good, but did he go up an incline? Don't forget, when on an incline, fuel in the tank moves back, and if there is a fuel pressure issue-such as pion prick holes in the fuel lines, fuel in the lines will also begin to move back....?!

could be though, that with a good blast and fuel cleaner a blockage if it exists gets cleared and youre sorted, fingers crossed.

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Yes he went up an nice steep hill but it didn't do it, typical! I'm hoping this cleaner stuff does the trick too Clivvy

Phil

I'm going to put up with it till i next get the car serviced, probably June/July time. I might get the EGR valve cleaned out or a maybe a restrictor plate fitted. Slowly getting through my list!

Phil

philipb82 said:

I'm going to put up with it till i next get the car serviced, probably June/July time. I might get the EGR valve cleaned out or a maybe a restrictor plate fitted. Slowly getting through my list!

Phil

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ah I see, if you haven't had the EGR plated, cleaned or fixed yet, then that's definitely the way to go-I thought you had.

Clivvy said:

ah I see, if you haven't had the EGR plated, cleaned or fixed yet, then that's definitely the way to go-I thought you had.

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No mate i've not done anything to the EGR valve. I was talking to my mechanic about this issue and he was talking about those restrictor plates. I was telling him about checking the intercooler hoses as you suggested. However he said they will be fine if the car is boosting fine. Hes a trustworthy bloke and have no reason to doubt him.

Phil

excellent, if the pipe work is all ok, that's another thing to discount against the problem.

As for the EGR, I think its definitely worth looking at next job. Get TWO restrictor plates, place one on the egr valve inlet, and one down at the bottom of the egr inlet pipe that enters the exhaust (I think that's what I did....). Get decent 2/3mm steel at least. Its an easy job, will take the mechanic no time really.

Once done, fully expect the first run of the car to chuck out a huge amount of black smoke and crap-thatll be the contents of the egr if you don't clean it thoroughly. Once you have blasted the car down the motorway you SHOULD see/feel a very noticeable difference.

when I did mine, I did one plate first. Tons of crap came out the exhaust first time. Took it for a blast (already noted a huge difference) and the exhaust fumes were much cleaner. I floored it through the gears, observed the crap flowing out the back. A bit later I did the second plate, and again this improved things a bit, and the exhaust fumes out the back are minimal. MOT was fine and well within limits, MPG considerably better (a run today to Morley and back gave me 42MPG) and the power/acceleration is way better and smooth.

point is, well worth doing for the cost of a pre made plate...mine only cost a couple of quid from ebay.

I've been thinking If diagnostics say that the car is boosting fine does that mean the MAP will be working as it should? Would it still be worth whipping it off and giving it a clean if needs be?

Also i've found a place near me who specialises in diesel injectors so i'll probably go and see him about testing.

Phil

as the MAP is very easy to remove, yes its worth cleaning if you haven't done so already. Use electrical contact spray, and gently swab with a cotton bud until its clean inside.

Id focus on doing the EGR before looking at injectors though, its an easy cheap job and even if it doesn't fix the fault, it will probably improve things significantly (that's assuming he egr is stuck or sticking of course!)

Diagnostics showing boost is fine-did they drive it to get the result, or just idle? If just idle, doesn't help if the egr is faulty.
just a thought...

philipb82 said:

I've been thinking If diagnostics say that the car is boosting fine does that mean the MAP will be working as it should? Would it still be worth whipping it off and giving it a clean if needs be?

Also i've found a place near me who specialises in diesel injectors so i'll probably go and see him.

Phil

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Clivvy said:

as the MAP is very easy to remove, yes its worth cleaning if you haven't done so already. Use electrical contact spray, and gently swab with a cotton bud until its clean inside.

Id focus on doing the EGR before looking at injectors though, its an easy cheap job and even if it doesn't fix the fault, it will probably improve things significantly (that's assuming he egr is stuck or sticking of course!)

Diagnostics showing boost is fine-did they drive it to get the result, or just idle? If just idle, doesn't help if the egr is faulty.
just a thought...

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Well i went out to clean the MAP and as far as i got was removing engine cover. I've done it before but i can't disconnect the stupid sensor and the nut seems very tight indeed. How does it disconnect? I've pulled, squeezed, pushed etc and can't do it.
Phil

you have to flip up the plastic orange/yellow clip thing first, then pull the plug up. The orange/yellow plastic thing is like a retaining safety clip.

As for the nut, be careful, but use a heavy hammer to give it a quick tap-that should crack it loose...I had the same problem.

I'll have another go at the MAP then.

I've been thinking about getting my injectors tested or at least get a quote. However if the cars fuel delivery is ok then does mean the injectors are working as they should? I don't want to waste money on getting them tested if theres no need to. Just a fort!

Phil

philipb82 said:

I'll have another go at the MAP then.

I've been thinking about getting my injectors tested or at least get a quote. However if the cars fuel delivery is ok then does mean the injectors are working as they should? I don't want to waste money on getting them tested if theres no need to. Just a fort!

Phil

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well, I haven't driven your car, so I dont know for sure, but going on what you have said so far I really do doubt its the injectors-but I am basing this on what you have said.

if the injectors were faulty, then fuel delivery would be sporadic all of the time, changing as you accelerate/push more diesel through them, but generally you would have lumpy running, spluttering and very poor economy etc etc.

Clivvy said:

you have to flip up the plastic orange/yellow clip thing first, then pull the plug up. The orange/yellow plastic thing is like a retaining safety clip.

As for the nut, be careful, but use a heavy hammer to give it a quick tap-that should crack it loose...I had the same problem.

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Nope i can't do it, the stupid thing won't budge. I've got no yellow clip though? Ah well i'll have to leave that one.

Phil

philipb82 said:

Nope i can't do it, the stupid thing won't budge. I've got no yellow clip though? Ah well i'll have to leave that one.

Phil

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Hi there bud

I saw your post and it brought me back some memories of my old JTD, ok for help on removing the MAP sensor here is a video from a trusted, long serving Fiat Forum buddy Shadeyman showing you how to do it (scroll down the thread and u will find the video link), although he is showing off and he does it in 2 minutes, i never managed it lol :

https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/275230-jtd-map-sensor.html

And for my 2 cents worth, i had a kangarooing issue on my old JTD, it turned out to be the MAF sensor, these are commmon to turn faulty after 100k miles, dont know why but the air flow sensor and resistor just malfunction. Replacing this was what cured my kangarooing issue on my old JTD 115. For me the MAP and MAF sensors are the right areas to be looking through

Hope this helps

BLKC99 said:

Hi there bud

I saw your post and it brought me back some memories of my old JTD, ok for help on removing the MAP sensor here is a video from a trusted, long serving Fiat Forum buddy Shadeyman showing you how to do it (scroll down the thread and u will find the video link), although he is showing off and he does it in 2 minutes, i never managed it lol :

https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/275230-jtd-map-sensor.html

And for my 2 cents worth, i had a kangarooing issue on my old JTD, it turned out to be the MAF sensor, these are commmon to turn faulty after 100k miles, dont know why but the air flow sensor and resistor just malfunction. Replacing this was what cured my kangarooing issue on my old JTD 115. For me the MAP and MAF sensors are the right areas to be looking through

Hope this helps

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Hello

Thanks for your help.

I take a look at the video and MAYBE try again . Regarding the kangarooing problem, i've had a new MAF fitted and its still there although not much now. Next i'm trying to check the MAP, then EGR and filter and oil change.

Phil

philipb82 said:

Hello

Thanks for your help.

I take a look at the video and MAYBE try again . Regarding the kangarooing problem, i've had a new MAF fitted and its still there although not much now. Next i'm trying to check the MAP, then EGR and filter and oil change.

Phil

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Hi there and no probs at all, plenty of peeps in this place have done the same for me before in the past

Just out of curiosity, what type MAF sensor have u put in your car? more specifically what brand? is is a OEM BOSCH? or is it a an aftermarket one? because.... your probably not gonna like this.....the after market ones and all other cheaper versions on the market for the stilo are a definite NO NO, they are nasty and will NOT work properly, if they do from the start you will, sooner or later have issues, trust, its a know fact about these aftermarket MAF sensors if you have fitted an OEM BOSCH then I would rule out the MAF sensor and seriously, for me, on the issue you have, my money is on either the MAP sensor being faulty/or clogged up if you say that you have replaced the EGR. If havent then it could also be down to a clogged/sticky EGR solenoid valve that is throwing the car on a limping session

Hope this helps

BLKC99 said:

Hi there and no probs at all, plenty of peeps in this place have done the same for me before in the past

Just out of curiosity, what type MAF sensor have u put in your car? more specifically what brand? is is a OEM BOSCH? or is it a an aftermarket one? because.... your probably not gonna like this.....the after market ones and all other cheaper versions on the market for the stilo are a definite NO NO, they are nasty and will NOT work properly, if they do from the start you will, sooner or later have issues, trust, its a know fact about these aftermarket MAF sensors if you have fitted an OEM BOSCH then I would rule out the MAF sensor and seriously, for me, on the issue you have, my money is on either the MAP sensor being faulty/or clogged up if you say that you have replaced the EGR. If havent then it could also be down to a clogged/sticky EGR solenoid valve that is throwing the car on a limping session

Hope this helps

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My new MAF is Bosch. I had a Pierburg before but that went kaput so had it replaced under warranty for a Bosch. I've had diagnostics done by a friend of my mechanics and it now says MAF is working as it should be. Also the boost and fuel delivery are all fine. However i am going to check the MAP and EGR and clean if necessary. I will also get all filters changed. I've had some injector cleaner thrown in too. So i'm thinking along same lines as you, MAP and EGR but also fuel filter (last changed last Jan) and i hope not.....injectors.

Phil

philipb82 said:

My new MAF is Bosch. I had a Pierburg before but that went kaput so had it replaced under warranty for a Bosch. I've had diagnostics done by a friend of my mechanics and it now says MAF is working as it should be. Also the boost and fuel delivery are all fine. However i am going to check the MAP and EGR and clean if necessary. I will also get all filters changed. I've had some injector cleaner thrown in too. So i'm thinking along same lines as you, MAP and EGR but also fuel filter (last changed last Jan) and i hope not.....injectors.

Phil

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Hi there

Good to hear the MAF sensor is a BOSCH, so with that ruled out, my money is on the MAP sensor, these two elements are know to cause limping/kangarooing/power loss issues when faulty, so is the EGR but for now lets leave that aside. As for the fuel injector malfunction possibility, honestly a broken injector is something i have never heard of on these JTD engines, im not saying in has not happened before but, it is rare for the injectors to fail on these motors, both the engine and most vital parts are known to be pretty solid on the JTD common rails diesel engines

Try to get your MAP sensor out and have a look, if its gunky and full of residue crap, give it a clean, plug it back in and go for a test run, this part would be my next area to look through and eliminate