Right, this is quite an amusing story so just a rundown from the 12 mile journey home from work. I broke down the first time outside a firestation in heavy traffic, and about 6 firefighters pushed me into the car park (embarassing), then a random guy stopped to offer me a jumpstart, I accepted with no thought of it actually working, and it started again, great success!

I then managed about another 2-3 miles and it cut out again at the end of a very busy junction, in which I had to push my car backwards when everything was clear like Fred Flinstone to get it out of the way.

Finally, I broke down in the car park next to my flat, and ended up freewheeling into a space.


Symptoms:
Rattling noise at low revs, almost like a tapping. Stops at 2k revs and above.
Oil level light comes on below 2k revs, and rattling starts.
Can feel rattling even through the gear stick and the clutch pedals.
Loss of acceleration before 2k revs entirely, and have to be very careful to set off as its very easy to stall.

Its very hot today, and the engine was roasting, the temperature was ok when its been happening, dead in the middle of the gauge, but I did fill it up with oil about a week ago, and I think I put too much in, could this be the cause?


Each time, a jump start has got me going again, but then the revs after 2 minutes had been very inconsistent and the same symptoms as before.


Can anyone help? I was just saying the other day how it hasnt given me any jip, sods law!

Did you top the oil of with the same oil that was in the engine? And how much over the limit did you put in? Comparing with the min and max marks on the dipstick was it half that, more, less?

Having to much oil is bad, since it can get slapped around in the engine.
Mixing oils is bad as well.

Thanks for the reply. Off the top of my head it was synthetic oil and it was the same as it had in previously. I checked the dip stick before but the engine was red hot, im letting it cool down before I check again!

I am leaning towards thinking its the alternator and everything has gone at once, I dont know. Its thrown episodes like this before and been fine in the morning. I literally dont have a clue where to start

First the temp gauge isn't for your oil, but for the coolant. You need to check the coolant mix, if It's neat water it could be boiling in the engine. Not good!

That might just be it! My radiator was leaking a few weeks ago and I patched it up with cold weld... so I went through all the coolant and now its just water! How would that explain it working when its jump started though?

Bob on StiloBoy, just started it, started clean as a whistle. I think the engine block is overheating. Ill just buy a new radiator on Friday, and get everything sorted. Thanks again!

Happy to help. I had the same thing happen on my old mini, previous owner only put water in, I payed several months later when engine boiled and blew head gasket.

Ill be off to asda to get some coolant shortly! I assumed it was just to stop it freezing and nothing to do with anything else. Such a novice with cars but picking up stuff now, I feel like I have built that stilo with my bare hands ive had it in bits so many times.


Thanks again.

Water boils at 100 degrees, your engine will likely be operating at typically 95-ish say so a little increase and it will vapourise. Your coolant system is pressurised and that raises boiling point to a degree but coolant/anti-freeze (kind of a misnomer title) increases boiling point some more.

StiloBoy said:

Water boils at 100 degrees, your engine will likely be operating at typically 95-ish say so a little increase and it will vapourise. Your coolant system is pressurised and that raises boiling point to a degree but coolant/anti-freeze (kind of a misnomer title) increases boiling point some more.

Click to expand...

A liquid under pressure will boil at a lower temperature than at atmospheric pressure, i.e.positive pressure decreases the boiling point.

Oh aye, my mistake, it was late when I typed that.

dandt87 said:

A liquid under pressure will boil at a lower temperature than at atmospheric pressure, i.e.positive pressure decreases the boiling point.

Click to expand...

ive never heard so much bull!

go back to school...

StiloBoy:- you are right!
water under pressure will reach its boiling point at a HIGHER temp, water under lower pressure will reach its boiling point at a lower temperature.

At an atmospheric pressure of around 1000 millibars (average fine day) for every 1000feet elevation above sea level waters boiling point reduces by 1°C (due to the thinning of the atmosphere and therefore less pressure).

when water is in your cooling system its pressurised to around 1.4bar (20psi) this means that the waters boiling point point increases to around 120°C, this is why you shouldn't take your expansion tank/rad cap off when the engine is hot because you suddenly decrease the pressure and then 7 litres of coolant decides it wants to turn to steam instantly and fires out of your headertank... in theory theres no danger of busting anything due to steam in your cooling system... but its an inexact science you can end up getting hotspots due to corrosion or other cooling system defects.

obviously its imperative to use the correct mix of coolant to ensure good condition of your waterways. coolant has corrosion inhibitors in it too reducing scaling and minimising the risk of hotspots when mixed correctly with deionised water.

yep...my bad, sorry stiloboy.

No probs, between us we got the right answer lol.