New discovery, F17 was blown! In the book says primary services but Ive read in another thread that this is the +ve to the injectors via T9. Replaced fuse and will attempt a start this weekend.

Crank sensor in perfect position.

Now need to find a battery charger from somewhere..

sounds promising - keep my fingers crossed......

Diagnostic lead arrived today!! So happy!!

OK, so the only faults are:
U1600 - CAN Network NCM - NGE - Invalid signal
U1702- Immobiliser: Key Fault - Signal high

I checked the antenna and connections seem ok. Is there anyway of actually testing this apart from replacing with another? As a new engine ECU went in, could it just need a proxy realignment? The car used to start and this error is new.

As for the CAN network error, I've read in another thread that this is an immobiliser fault. eLearn is useless to me as none of the pictures or diagrams come up lol!

Thanks guys

james2609 said:

eLearn is useless to me as none of the pictures or diagrams come up

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Install the SVG Viewer found on the eLEARN disc.

:doh: thanks davren

U1600 - CAN communication between the bodycomputer + ecu goes trough the famous D4 connector - i would check it again as this is a known weak spot in Stilo's....
Did you check if there is any diiference when you use your second key?
From the picture of the crankshaft-sensor it's hard to tell the gap distance - did you measure it?
What about the blown fuse you mentioned? Did you replace it and has it blown again since then?
Personally i would check the wiring of the can-lines and immobilizer coil with a multimeter all the way through all connectors - i think these fault codes are a good explanation why your car won't start.
Because your ecu had already stored the pin code of your car the first time and will probably have done that again after the second virginisation i guess it will start your car once you have solved this immo/communication problem.
Once you solved your E-learn problem use the ecu- and immo schematics to check all relevant wiring and connectors.
good luck!

I would agree with Yellowstilo If you have touched D4 connector this is were your problem may be check D4 for tightness on body side of connector best way to check is pull plug apart ( yellow plastic inside plug remove + pull rubber seal back on back of plug now check tightness of each connection ).

U1600 - CAN communication between the bodycomputer + ecu goes trough the famous D4 connector - i would check it again as this is a known weak spot in Stilo's.... Did you check if there is any diiference when you use your second key?

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Yes, tried this and no difference.

From the picture of the crankshaft-sensor it's hard to tell the gap distance - did you measure it?
What about the blown fuse you mentioned? Did you replace it and has it blown again since then?

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The fuse has not blown again since, thanks to the new ECU.
The gap is good and crank sensor is fine.

Personally i would check the wiring of the can-lines and immobilizer coil with a multimeter all the way through all connectors - i think these fault codes are a good explanation why your car won't start.
Because your ecu had already stored the pin code of your car the first time and will probably have done that again after the second virginisation i guess it will start your car once you have solved this immo/communication problem.
Once you solved your E-learn problem use the ecu- and immo schematics to check all relevant wiring and connectors.
good luck!

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Thanks again for all your input.
I've been studying eLearn until my brain hurt, wiring diagrams are so confusing to me lol. Where will I find the immobiliser coil? If the code is being written to the engine ecu, would I be right in that the CAN connections from body computer and ECU are ok?

I would agree with Yellowstilo If you have touched D4 connector this is were your problem may be check D4 for tightness on body side of connector best way to check is pull plug apart ( yellow plastic inside plug remove + pull rubber seal back on back of plug now check tightness of each connection ).

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I will take this apart today and doublecheck the D4.

Is it possible the car & keys needs to be reprogrammed by Fiat? Or proxy alignment for the new ECU?

Thanks guys,

yes, when the immo code is written to the ecu i would assume that the can connection trough D4 is o.k. but it never hurts to double-check it...
A problem with the coil would result in a non-starting car because the keys are not recognised.
You can find the wiring in the section of the bodycomputer as it is directly attached to it.
You don't need to Proxy the ecu as it has no Proxy file stored - it is possible to do a reset of the configuration with FES to force a configuration relearn from the bodycomputer.
When you still have the old knackered ecu you may send it to me and i will check if your old immo code matches the one i read from your new ecu when you resent it to me for revirginisation last time.
When you want it returned you will have to pay the shipping costs, that's up to you...
Good luck with solving your Stilo problem !

yellowstilo said:

yes, when the immo code is written to the ecu i would assume that the can connection trough D4 is o.k. but it never hurts to double-check it...
A problem with the coil would result in a non-starting car because the keys are not recognised.
You can find the wiring in the section of the bodycomputer as it is directly attached to it.
You don't need to Proxy the ecu as it has no Proxy file stored - it is possible to do a reset of the configuration with FES to force a configuration relearn from the bodycomputer.
When you still have the old knackered ecu you may send it to me and i will check if your old immo code matches the one i read from your new ecu when you resent it to me for revirginisation last time.
When you want it returned you will have to pay the shipping costs, that's up to you...
Good luck with solving your Stilo problem !

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Hi all,
Took the D4 plug apart today, checked all the connections, cleaned up and reattached everything. I couldn't see any problems with any connectors but guess what!! One error code gone! Still showing the U1600 error and haven't attempted to start it, so U1702 might come back..?? :S

Hi Yellow,
Thanks for the offer to check out my old ECU. I'll see how I get on and if I hit a dead end, it'll be in the post lol

clear the fault and then remove the car battery for a few mins, hopefully that may clear it, if not you will need to find out what ohms resistance the coil should be and test it.
the short in your ecu may have burned the pick up coil out. hopefully not though.
at least thats cleared the can network problems
roy

I'm hoping that the short hasn't affected the coil at all seeing as the car used to fire on 3-cyl. Where is the coil and how can I test it? Can't find it on eLearn, that program starting to make me crazy

i would have a very thorough check of the antenna coil and the wiring + connectors to the body computer.
It might be possible there is a short-circuit to power supply from one of the antenna wires.
Read the comments in you FES screen print - that might be an explanation why your keys are not recognised , the antenne works with a high frequency (around 125 kHz) and the signal will be disturbed when there is a short-circuit to V-battery or negative.
The short in your old ecu will not have burnt your antenna coil - the coil is connected to the bodycomputer and is not affected by a fault in the ignition driver circuit.
There is a tiny connector on the coil itself (at the front part of your ignition switch) - check the resistance of the coil and the proper contact of the connector.

There is a tiny connector on the coil itself (at the front part of your ignition switch) - check the resistance of the coil and the proper contact of the connector.

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Last night I checked the antenna. When this is unplugged, an error shows. Tested with multimeter and there is minimal resistance and has 2.7v feed to it so I'm pretty confident this is ok.

I thought as the CAN Network error had disappeared, it may start using emergency start procedure. When entering the code, it does not flash to confirm it was accepted and still refuses to start. Bad news, the U1600 fault has returned since attempting to start the car and does not go away.

Body computer - I removed all plugs from the computer and checked all connections, no problems here either. The wiring diagram attached is the one I am following. My knowledge in electronics in very limited, but below and attached diagrams is what I'm trying to follow. Problem is, I don't know which pins from what plugs to check on ECU and BCU. It says there is a serial connection via D4 to the ECU that sends the immobiliser signal. How can I check this?

Sorry to ask this question Yellow, but my knowledge is very limited (as proven lol!). Is it possible that the ECU is not compatible?

As far as I'm aware, the engine ECU has been removed and replaced time and again and if there is a fault, it could be a in the ECU connectors, which I will take apart today.

Edging closer and closer to putting it into a Fiat garage somewhere

CODE - Functional description

The CODE unit inside Body Computer M1 is supplied from the battery from the line of maxifuse CPL B99 - pin 18 of connector F, while the ignition-operated power supply (INT) reaches pin 9.
The line leading from pin 29 of connector A is a serial line W leading to engine management unit M10 - which is responsible for the communication required for identifying the key and exchanging codes.This communication takes place via the CAN network in the case of normal operation.
Body Computer M1 is linked to instrument panel E50 , via the CAN line to manage the CODE failure warning light.
The aerial of CODE device P91 is connected via two leads to the CODE unit of M1 , at pins 4 and 5 of connector A; The aerial is located coaxially on the ignition switch so that it can register key insertion and activation.
The various aerials in the car identify the presence of a CID inside the passenger compartment and inform the Passive Entry control unit M64; this sends start-up enablement to the Body Computer M1
See E7018 PASSIVE ENTRY via the CAN network.

Called Ancaster Fiat in Welling who said they can do a re-code the car and keys for £63. Is there a chance this is all it could need?

check D4 again use mail spade to check female side for tightness. I had more or less same problem as your having, Remember what yellowstilo told you about ecu code no communication with ecu = no code for ecu.

solving this kind of problems with little knowledge of car electronics is difficult - you must be able to read the schematics like a good book (or Playboy).
I think you just look at the connectors and judge them as being o.k. - that won't do for a good diagnosis....
The serial W-line through D4 is only used in case of a CAN failure between the BC and ecu - in normal use the code exchange is done by can bus.
You would need an oscilloscope to check if there is any data sent on the W-line.
With a can-bus logger you could check the data sent after key-on but you would have to filter the relevant data as there is a real flood of data going on - you have to know what to look for !
Both IAW5NFT1 and T9 will work on your Stilo 1.6, i have tested you ecu on my own Stilo when i revirginised it for the second time and it started without any problems. (i have a T1 but T9 works o.k. too)
I have removed my ecu connector very often for all testing purposes with lots of ecu's and my connectors are still fine, i'm sure i did that much more than you did...
When you want to test the connectors you also have to check all wiring from start to end.
It's very hard to diagnose your problem from a distance - when you are prepared to pay the shipping costs i'm willing to read and test your ecu again and read the code of your faulty ecu , when it is still o.k. and runs in my car i could send you another one but i'm not very confident that will solve your problem.
The key codes are stored in the body computer , not in the ecu.
You might try a key relearn but i don't think that will start your car.
Try to find a professional who is specialised in car electronics and solving electronic problems - you will drive yourself mad when you try it yourself and might end up by dumping your Stilo in the channel....
good luck!

you will drive yourself mad when you try it yourself and might end up by dumping your Stilo in the channel....

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Lol!! The channel is couple hours drive from here, so that isn't going to happen!! More likely I will set the thing alight or smash it up using the banger Clio i'm driving at the moment

Thanks for all your help guys I've tried everything within my limits.

I have spoken to 4 auto electricians in my area today to ask about the problem I'm having and strangely, all 4 said "it's a little too involved" and requires a dealer to put it on their computer.

Your test relays and immobiliser pickup ring are packaged and due to be sent tomorrow for you James