Hi all,

Thanks again Roy for giving me a hand with my Stilo.

At the weekend i realised that my ECU was rattling and I suspected there was something broken inside. The picture shows very clearly what's happened!! Would never have taken it apart if Roy hadn't helped me out with it and really grateful for his time.

If anyone knows where i can get an ECU for the Stilo for a decent price, please let me know. I'm hoping that this will cure everything lol

As the ECU is faulty you have nothing to loose by trying to repair it.

Could work out a lot cheaper and easier than a new ECU.

This company sell ECU chips and that one is listed.
http://ecutechnologycoltdco.itrademarket.com/trade/60.html

Shoot Yellowstilo a PM.

gr J

PM sent.....

Found this if it's any use, not sure if the codes on top of the ECU will match your original one?:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIAT-STILO-1-6-ECU-1AW-5NF-T1-C146-/260952967257?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc2024859

Hi Mark,

I saw this too, but it's a T1, not a T9 (if that makes any difference at all!).

I have sent yellowstilo a message and hope to have an ECU to fit quite soon. The clio i'm driving has developed a new sound, it's either engine going to fall out or all wheels going to fall off!

I did explore the repair options for my ECU, but apparently because of a laminated thing underneath the chipboard, a repair of this kind is highly unlikely going to work so a replacement was the best option. I have heard some horror stories about virginalised units as well from the ECU companies, but I think this should be OK as long as I follow Roy's instruction on setup

Will update soon.

Just to add, I did try to repair this myself using some superglue and a hairband, the ultimate bodge of all! lol! The chip itself is fried, and I suspected this when Roy and I saw the small burn mark on the board. But anyway, good news is it did actually start and run on the 3 cylinders. I was getting a car security error earlier and stopping the car from starting altogether, just another one of those lies my car likes to tell!

na mate, the chip was probo shorting out something and the car saw its sercurity was being overridden.
Just out of intrest is the new ecu just plug and play?
Also remember i marked your left hand connection block (washer bottle side) for you so you dont get confused when re assembling.
I think once that ecu is on that will be the end of your problems, including the temp sensor failure.
bring it round and i will clear out the faults when your running again.
roy

roy lovelock said:

na mate, the chip was probo shorting out something and the car saw its sercurity was being overridden.
Just out of intrest is the new ecu just plug and play?
Also remember i marked your left hand connection block (washer bottle side) for you so you dont get confused when re assembling.
I think once that ecu is on that will be the end of your problems, including the temp sensor failure.
bring it round and i will clear out the faults when your running again.
roy

Click to expand...

Yes, the new ECU is plug and play. Won't forget which way round they go and will definitely pop round when it's up and running.

yes, it is possible to fit the ecu the wrong way and still put the connectors on - the correct position is with the sticker at the back and the threaded part at the front.
just follow the instructions i sent you and it should work plug & play....

yellowstilo said:

yes, it is possible to fit the ecu the wrong way and still put the connectors on - the correct position is with the sticker at the back and the threaded part at the front.
just follow the instructions i sent you and it should work plug & play....

Click to expand...

I'm using iPhone and supposed to click like on your post, but the buttons disappeared and can't change the option!!! Sorry!!!

Hi guys,
I plugged in my ECU on Saturday and the car didn't start. I was so gutted!! I followed the procedure of ignition on for 15 seconds (during which time, no errors showed on the dash), followed by attempting to start the car. It didn't start! So I turned ignition on agai for 15 seconds, tried to start again and nothing. It turns over but refused to fire. Is there anything else I should check? The car locks and unlocks and no immobiliser light dashboard either.

I will get the ECU back revirginised hopefully later this week/early next week and just want to make sure that this time, it'll start.

Thanks again Yellowstilo for the ECU! :worship:

james2609 said:

Hi guys,
I plugged in my ECU on Saturday and the car didn't start. I was so gutted!! I followed the procedure of ignition on for 15 seconds (during which time, no errors showed on the dash), followed by attempting to start the car. It didn't start! So I turned ignition on agai for 15 seconds, tried to start again and nothing. It turns over but refused to fire. Is there anything else I should check? The car locks and unlocks and no immobiliser light dashboard either.

I will get the ECU back revirginised hopefully later this week/early next week and just want to make sure that this time, it'll start.

Thanks again Yellowstilo for the ECU! :worship:

Click to expand...

I'd assume that if it's cranking but not firing up then you're either getting fuel but no spark or you're getting a spark but no fuel. Or maybe both I have heard something before about having to put the ignition on 3 times or something along those lines but I'm not so sure about any of those procedures Hopefully it will start next time round when you get the ecu back. If you have one available plug in an OBD2 code reader and see what's going on

james2609 said:

Hi guys,
I plugged in my ECU on Saturday and the car didn't start. I was so gutted!! I followed the procedure of ignition on for 15 seconds (during which time, no errors showed on the dash), followed by attempting to start the car. It didn't start! So I turned ignition on agai for 15 seconds, tried to start again and nothing. It turns over but refused to fire. Is there anything else I should check? The car locks and unlocks and no immobiliser light dashboard either.

I will get the ECU back revirginised hopefully later this week/early next week and just want to make sure that this time, it'll start.

Thanks again Yellowstilo for the ECU! :worship:

Click to expand...

Hello James- as i described it's very important to allow the body computer to write the immo data to the virginised ecu after first key off so when the car starts next time:
you can have a test drive but after key off : wait at least 15 seconds (preferrably longer to be sure....)
When the writing of the immo data is interrupted by a quick second start attempt the car won't start anymore....
that's why i prefer to install the ecu myself - it's not possible to check the installation procedure when you send it abroad....
good luck next time ! (ecu did not yet arrive)

Time to update!!

Thanks to Yellowstilo, I also now have my immobiliser code. (another few quid saved there)

The old ECU has been plugged into the car. The car security error (and all other errors that used to appear on the dashboard) no longer appear. BUT the car itself won't start now and nothing really has changed.:bang: I cleaned the connectors under the fusebox with some brake cleaner and dried them out. It used to run on 3-cylinders with this ECU and now doesn't start at all, just worried that when I get the new ECU, it'll have the same problem. Could it need a proxy realignment from ECU swapping?

Virginised ECU arriving next week, praying that it will start

This car leaves me completely stumped. Does anyone have wiring diagrams for the under bonnet fusebox? Can someone refresh my memory on how to test the relay also? lol

Thanks again for your help guys:worship:

dont touch it until you have the new ecu and gone though startup proceedure. you dont want to introduce more problems!!

Good evening all,
The problems with the Stilo continue!!

Tonight, I installed the virginised ECU and followed Yellowstilo's exact instructions. No errors are showing on the dashboard and sadly, it's still turning and refusing to fire. Edging closer and closer to throwing it into a dealer:bang:

I am truly out of ideas now, any help would be appreciated, thanks again guys.

Sorry to hear your car still does not start- as i tested the ecu before on my own Stilo and revirginised it again i'm sure it is o.k.
Did you already change the T9 relay in the engine fuse box with another identical relay?
Did you connect a fault code reader to check for any stored codes which do not activate your MIL ?
Try a emergency start procedure with your code as described in your manual - this will overrule your immobilizer temporary.
Check your spark plugs - are they dry and the right colour?
Does your crankshaft sensor has the correct gap? (0,5-1,5 mm, 0,5-1mm is preferred)
It's hard to diagnose such a problem from a distance - in the end it might turn out to be something very unexpected....
I wish you luck with solving your problem - please keep us informed for learning purposes...

Tried the emergency start procedure today. I went through the procedure and for some reason, I don't get the confirmation flashes at the end. Also, car/padlock & EML illuminated and doesn't go off. I know it should be ok as it started first time with previous ecu.

I want to check the relays but unsure which pins to connect and here the clicks.
battery is running flat now too.

Purchased a fiat ODB2 cable today (eBay item: 150758287885) and will get this plugged in to see if any error codes are showing.

recharge your battery first as this is crucial in a Stilo !
you can just swap the T9 relay with a similar relay for another function - you can check the pin connections using the Elearn cd in the download section.
Of course all other conditions have to be ok like a set of fresh spark plugs and correct gap of the crankshaft sensor - did you check these ?
With FES you can activate the ignition coil for each spark plug to check these (outside the cilinder as the spark might ignite the unburned fuel in the cilinder!) - connect all spark plug bodies to earth of car and activate each coil one by one to check for a strong spark.
If this is ok check your crankshaft sensor gap and adjust towards the minimum value (min. 0,5 mm) - this generates a higher signal for the ecu.
Also clean the surface of this sensor as the permanent magnet inside might attract metal particles at the front side.
Also check if you hear your fuel pump running when you switch on your ignition ( i assume there is enough fuel in your tank...)
Check your fuel cut-off switch by pressing the top trough the hole in the plastic cover in front of your right door (i assume it's at the same as my left hand driven Stilo)
good luck and keep us informed !