Hello all Im about to embark on Turbo removal on my Stilo JTD 115bhp

My question is does the manifold and everything have to come off the car or can the turbo be unbolted on its own.

I love the Stilo but lack of a Haynes manual is a pain.Are the discs for sale on Ebay any good to help me do the job.

Thanks and Happy new year to you all.

Check the download section of this site and you can find the Stilo eLearn, which is the Fiat maintenance manual which also contains removal/installation of your Turbo.

Ive downloaded the Elearn pack and unzipped them but cant get them to open on my PC hence turned to the forum.

When I run the elearn package it tells me to insert disc.

Should I be opening them a different way

so still stuck

Thanks Ive done all that and got a working disc but the instructions fro turbo removal etc where the picture should be im just getting a red X

is there something ive done wrong or do the pictures not work??

Run the program named "svgview.exe" found in the folder "SVG" on the disc. This will install the SVG viewer required to view most of the diagrams. You may find that you're still unable to see some of the diagrams though. Unfortunately, that's a fault with the disc.

If you're running windows 7 remember to run the program as the administrator or it will automatically reject all addons to the program, one of which is the svg viewer.

I don't use Windows 7 and still found some of the diagrams only show as a red X even with the SVG viewer installed. If I go back to the homepage and change the language to Italian though, all the diagrams show correctly.

Must be a bug then.

Stilo jtd 115 sump/turbo

Hi all cant seem to find an answer to this.

Im in the process of taking our car to bits due to a turbo problem.

Prior to refitting the turbo once sorted I want to clean out the oil system as per advice to prevent further problems and ensure turbo is getting clean oil.

My question is , has anyone ever removed the sump off one of these and how easy is it??

Does the car use a physical sump gasket or a fluid type sealant.

:slayer:

Re: Stilo jtd 115 sump/turbo

The JTD sump uses a silicone sealant, no gasket, but you shouldn't need to remove and clean it.

The oil from the sump goes through a strainer inside the sump then through the oil filter before it gets to the turbo. It's usually just the small bore braided oil supply pipe to the turbo that needs to be replaced when fitting a new or reconditioned turbo. Obviously the engine oil and filter should also be changed.

Re: Stilo jtd 115 sump/turbo

Thanks for the reply.

However to do the job properly the sump and strainer should be cleaned and the oil filter changed.

Not doing that is the reason so many people have repeated turbo failure.

So i still need to know if the sump has any complications on fitting and refitting.

Im planning ahead as stuck indoors ill at the minute.

Need to save costs and do as much myself.

Re: Stilo jtd 115 sump/turbo

I never realised "so many people have repeated turbo failure", I've never heard of anyone having repeated turbo failure unless it's a 300,000 mile plus vehicle.

Anyway, according to eLEARN, it's just a matter of taking the engine out then unbolting the sump. It's not clear from eLEARN whether the combined engine front cover and oil pump need to be removed before the sump will come off, but I expect, having gone that far, you'll want to take the oil pump apart to clean it anyway.

Of course, what eLEARN says, doesn't necessarily mean it's impossible to get the sump off without completely removing the engine.

I find it such a shame you cant ask a simple question without someone getting smart arse with the answers.

Ive read loads of forum entries about turbo failure (not just fiat)and yes repeated turbo failure is a common problem.
Turbos can last a long time as they say but not if you dont fix the source of the failure.the sump can get full of crap that the oil change and flush doesnt always clear.
My car is well looked after but looks like a recent engine flush and oil change has disturbed some crap and i now have a sudden oil flow problem.
The point of a forum is for people to have a source to ask questions in the hope of chatting with someone who knows the answer and doesnt complicate the issue.

The advice im following comes from an engineer who refurbishes turbos for the leading company in the country (as a friend and not me as a customer) and recomendation from a leading specialist in turbos and motor racing.
Unfortunately they couldnt tell me how to get the sump off a Stilo.


I take it from the extended reply thats its a no for a simple bolt off job.

By the way the elearn bit is a little useless as you say its not clear enough and also the download is corrupt and a lot of photos dont work.

Thanks to all the genuine advice i recieve on here its been a great help from those not on their high horse looking down.

I've worked in the motor trade for almost 36 years and have genuinely never had, worked on or heard of any average mileage car that's needed more than one replacement turbo. The fact that you have and I haven't, doesn't make my response a smart arse answer.

I don't know whether it's a simple bolt off job. I've never needed to remove a Stilo JTD sump.

I think all the Stilo eLEARN CDs whether downloaded or purchased via eBay have a bug whereby some of the diagrams don't appear when the language is set to English. I find on mine that if I set the language to Italian, the diagrams do appear.

I've only been on a horse once. "I didn't fall off, the horse threw me". Fortunately it wasn't a high horse.

Well Ive managed to remove the turbo/manifold and cat from the car as one complete unit which was a simple job bar a couple of rusty nuts.

Anyone planning on trying a turbo removal please have a think about your tools before you listen to the people who tell you to take the front bumper and rad off.
As per the Elearn pack removing the front of the car is NOT required as long as you have access to a decent socket set and various length extensions for it (short ones)

I started by removing the heat shields which went OK. These are bolted on apart from 2 nuts one right in the middle at the front and one to the top right both of which on mine had rusted. A little work with my dremmel tool and some mole grips sorted that.

Next I went round all the manifold and exhaust bolts and ensured I could loosen them all before I committed to the full removal. One manifold bolt on the underneath to the right was a bit rusty but still managed along with a rusty cat bolt which came off with a decent set of mole grips.

I removed the turbo to intercooler pipe and disconnected the turbo oil return at the engine end. Leave the oil feed pipe till later .
Disconnected the corrugated exhaust pipe to the right of the manifold.
Undid All the manifold bolts. The bottom right you do blind with a long socket or a socket and flexy connector gave me enough length. The bottom right second one in you do blind with a standard 12mm spanner. I have big hands and still managed it.
Next undid all bolts at bottom of cat uncluding two onto turbo support bracket. The actuator pipe just pulled off.Disconnect the turbo to intercooler pipe. Then move the whole assembly away from the engine slightly and this should then give access to the 17mm oil feed pipe bolt coming out of the engine and then the whole unit easily drops out below the car even if it is only slightly jacked up.
Job sorted and no bumper or rads removed.
Refitting is an exact reversal.

I nearly managed to get the turbo off the car without moving the cat or manifold.
The turbo connects to the manifold using 4 bolts which when facing the car two are visible and easily lossened . the left rear I managed to loosen with a 12mm spanner type with a flexi ratchet on one end in the tight space. I would have done the same on the other side then just disconnected the cat which clamps onto the turbo then the oil feed return from under the car then the oil feed would be more accessible once the turbo was moved a little.
The thing that scuppered me was the corugated exhaust return to the right of the manifold on my car was stuck solid. the allen bolts holding it on rounded off when I was trying to free it.
May be worth someone else trying this if your trying to save time and work and your corugated pipe can come off.

I seem to be lucky my turbo was dirty and needed new oil seals but everything else OK.

I used a lenghth of plastic wire from my garden strimmer to poke through the oil feed pipe to check it was clear as the plastic line was the right thickness and no sharp ends to damage the pipe. My feed pipe was nice and clean.

The turbo one off comes apart quite easily and I would say a rebuild kit or a replacement cartridge are probably the cheapest ways to got as a refurb turbo gives you new casings which is a bit of a waste.

Oil system cleaned turbo suitably primed and away you go.

as above just removed my jtd16v turbo and manifold complete with egr pipe elbow off the car on a small pair of ramps with avg set of tools and lowered down and out underneath.
same here turbo appears in good condition but have suspected turbine seal for years (blue smoke on start up) and confirmed now as manifold bone dry and turbine outlet soaked in oil.

sussexa
if your planning to rebuild yourself there is a seller on ebay does rebuild kits for 30 quid which come from a chinese company called jrone which are a company a lot of uk professional refurbish companies get parts from.
I bought one but never used it as a friend redid mine so its going up for sale.
Rebuild kit for gt1749 turbos
good luck with the rebuild

I've already got a spare 99 percent rebuilt just want it properly balancing as I will be asking alot of it in the future 1.7 bar - 1.9 bar maybe.

Hi this is a great guide I dint quite ge the manifolds which one was which, so just to advise this procedure remove the exhaust manifold still attached to the Turbo all as one unit. I couldn't get the heat cowls out easily I had to remove the brass water pipe across the top of the manifold before they came out. I took off the flexi part of the exhaust to allow CAT removals that made a lot more space. The CAT attachment to the Turbo was a pain as the coupling is a Brass clamp the nut of which was top side and very hard to access I assume the garage who put the turbo on last time had it all in one unit . I just about got a 17mm spanner onto the Nut and slowly undid it to allow the CAT to drop away. Removal of he manifold bolts was easier than expected. I found the top and of the Corrugated pipe that has a small allen bolt clamp and came off easily . The large allen bolts on the Top side of the Corrugate pipe were stuck fast so it all came off together in the end. My turbo is off because My Stilo is boring a lot of oil and from inspection it looks like oil is passing through the turbo into air and exhaust side as the air filter box is oily . CAT is very dirty so hope that doesn't need replacing ! Great guide thanks very much