Hi Guys.

I only picked the car up sunday and have already covered over 450 work miles in it with no problems, but i have a few questions.

Firstly what should the low rpm performance be like? i had a 11 year old 206 hdi with 60bhp less at it felt to have more grunt between 1600 and 2300 rom than my stilo? the stilo does not feel slow in that area but not much diesel grunt that im used, say above 2800rpm it goes bloody well!

Also when on lighlt throttle if i let the revs slowly rise to about 2800rpm there is a slight kick in performance with no further throttle action if that makes sense.

Lastly why is the car the better on fuel in 5th gear than 6th?

Dont think theres any major issues and its averaging 51mpg, but just wondered what you think of the above?

Chris

It sounds like it could be boost related so remove and clean the EGR, MAP & MAF sensors and see if there is any improvement.

Mine will pull your b*ll*x off from just over 1000 rpm! It's a HUGE improvement on my sons 115bhp JTD, which in itself is very impressive.

I wish my 2.9TD Merc engined Korando showed any where near the same willingness at low revs.

I'd say that if you have doubts about the low range pulling of a Multijet 150, there just has to be something wrong with it

Is this when warm or from cold start?im. Pretty sure theres a temp related torque reduction, I wait for temp gauge movement anyway before giving any beans.
As mentioned above check map sensor and egr valve , but also you have swirl flaps in 4 of your 8 inlet tracts.
If you can watch top of inlet manifold you can see a bar connected to 4 plastics caps( with cover off), if someone else can start the car you should see the bar move turning the swirl flaps,looking for 1/4 turn only.

It makes no difference if its hot or cold. I did noticed tonight on the way home from work a bit of a smoke trail in the rear view mirror while giving pulling away from a roundabout erm briskly!!.

I think thats another sign of a bad EGR?, Im planning to give it a clean sunday but how do you clean the piston part inside, i guess if you press it in it will spring back up?

Right i cleaned the EGR last knight and to be honest it was not as bad as some ive seen on the internet, its made no real difference to how it drives.

I also now concerned and while checking the swirl flaps i noticed some soot/oil deposits around the swirl flap nearest to the gearbox!, the other 3 were bone dry!..

Please tell me i dont need a manifold

If its any reassurance mines the same but more leaks from other end by Cambelt not really anyworse after 30,000 mile( the amount of soot leaking out of the swirl flap bush that is)I clen it off now and again to keep an eye on levels.
Are all caps turning together, none popped of the linkage?also look for any obstruction mine kept dying as I pulled out of junctions when I first got it, found a bolt had been dropped onto manifold presumably during service, it would jam up the bar and flaps now and again(put up engine light eventually)no issue since I found it.
Been using additives, good fuel, injector cleaner twice a year, and tried 10k boost to keep manifold as clean as possible.
If you've had your egr valve off there is a newer type gasket to the manifold, it's a full plate with 4 holes in it, to help egr gasses mix better.prob worth fitting next clean as only a few quid.

I bought the car from quite a big used car dealer and do have 3 months/3000miles warranty?, ive had it a week and have used 700 mile of that.

Would i be pushing my luck to ask if they can sort this, im just worried its going to totally fail and leave me a big bill after the warranty finishes?

Chris

I've attached the "Restrictor Plate" bulletin sussexa is talking about to this post.

It's not difficult to install, you could do it yourself.


I fitted a "Restrictor Plate" to my daughters Stilo 8v and blanked off the EGR completely on my own Stilo 8v. Over a period of 7 months I compared the 2 cars and found no performance difference at all between them but the EGR on my daughters car did eventually start sticking again so I blanked that off too.

Edit.
I stripped and cleaned the EGR on my car before refitting the blanking plate, I made a video, check out this thread.
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/275958-egr-maintenance-video.html

.

Cheers guys, cleaning the egr has made alittle improvement and maybe slightly smoother.

I dont have any traction control on my car but say if you had pulled away in 1st ie clutch fully let out and about 1500rpm, then floor the throttle would you exspect it to spin the wheels? i have 2 steps in power, a kick about 2200 and another smaller boost at around 2800rpm?

Anyway im going to try it back and see what joy i have, then i will buy the egr plates and still would like to clean the boost sensor, but there is a black metal pipe in the away?

The vanes in the turbo could be sticking causing a 2 step boost feeling.

Does the actuator rod on the turbo move smoothly?

Mine wasn't and it made the car fell like the power came on in steps sometimes.
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Shadeyman where is that located?

I may rig my GoPro camera up and do a quick vid showing you what the car does!, i may just be expecting to much from it! just feels more like a petrol turbo than a diesel! you can clearly feel the turbo from 1700 rpm and constantly hear it until the redline. I have driven lots of VAG diesel and dont have that surge at daily driving speeds

Not sure if this is related but its a bit lumpy for the first 2 or 3 seconds when you start in the morning

The actuator is bolted to the turbo.

I managed to get my car plugged into a diagnostic machine today and it listed 3 faults refering to the lambda sensor?

I did not know diesels had them and could it be related to the power delivery?

Thanks

What were the fault codes?

It was tested with a sykes pickavant tester, dont know what reference these codes will be

2A00 - lambda voltage above threshold
2626 - Lambda sensor
113 1- lambda 1 singal upstream plausibity

I don't recognise the fault codes as being Fiat.

I think they are P codes, if i google search P2A00, P2626 and P1131 lots of results are found

The lambda sensor is just below turbo after the first bend towards precat, the lead is visible from engine bay and the connector plug is left hand side of block near Cambelt cover I think. Check plug ?
Not sure what it does exactly, smoke map maybe?