hi all

I have just one a towbar for my estate on ebay. Has anyone a copy of fitting instructions?
can I wire directly in to clusters or will I need a proper wiring kit?

thanks

You will need a proper wiring kit. As simple as that.

Check the tow bar manufacturer's web site. You should be able to download fitting instructions from there.

Morty Mort said:

You will need a proper wiring kit. As simple as that.

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as above due to the cars CAN network you will need to wire each cluster in via a Special relay unit to both protect the CAN network and wiring for the extra load, and also to stop the bulb failure warning from going nuts every time you plug your trailer in or on a damp day where the plug can leak voltage to ground....



https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-pu...ng-towbar-12-n-socket-7-way-bypass-relay.html




https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/205387-5-door-towbar-wiring.html



https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-punto/274152-rear-cycle-carrier.html

My kit actually tells on the dash when a bulb goes on my caravan. I've got the 13-pin wiring kit from Ellebi / Brink, which also disables the rear parking sensors when a trailer is attached. And it charges the battery and keeps my beer cool in the fridge while driving.

Morty Mort said:

And it charges the battery and keeps my beer cool in the fridge while driving.

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:worship: :worship: :worship: :worship:


(just remember to level the van BEFORE you start on the beers )


Over in the UK we use 2x 7 pin (although many New caravans are now coming with 13 pin)

Andy Monty said:

:worship: :worship: :worship: :worship: (just remember to level the van BEFORE you start on the beers )

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Very good advice, and do it before the family enters and tilt the whole thing. But even before that, check that the nearby power outlet actually has working current. Once I levelled the caravan, and practically did everything (except putting up the awning) - while drinking beer. Then the power didn't work - and the cord was too short for the next pole. Sh*t - couldn't drive either.

Andy Monty said:

Over in the UK we use 2x 7 pin (although many New caravans are now coming with 13 pin)

Click to expand...

I've seen those, but here all caravans now come with a 13 pin plug. I got my wiring installed many years ago, and when I say I have the 13 pin connector on the Stilo, everyone says "no way" it's not normal - even in 2011. The Stilo seems to have been a lab rat, where different futuristic concepts have been tried out. But having a separate live feed for the fridge is fantastic.

To address the OP's question - The fitting instructions depend on the make of towbar that you bought. Do a google search - stilo multiwagon "your make of towbar" fitting instructions or pdf - and you should find plenty of choices of pdf files.

Morty Mort said:

But having a separate live feed for the fridge is fantastic.

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Our UK 7 pin caravan electrics power the fridge as well. Using a split charge relay, it will power up when it senses the higher voltage output from the alternator and shut off when you turn off the engine and the voltage drops.

I've just done all of this for my multiwagon, the electrics and fitting the towbar. It's definitely a do-able DIY job.

hi found the instructions and all looks simple, typical ebay purchase though, it is missing part "F" angle, sure i can knock somthing up, as witter dont sell parts which is a bit annoying.
for future reference i have added the witter instructions to this post

Morty Mort said:

Very good advice, and do it before the family enters and tilt the whole thing. But even before that, check that the nearby power outlet actually has working current. Once I levelled the caravan, and practically did everything (except putting up the awning) - while drinking beer. Then the power didn't work - and the cord was too short for the next pole. Sh*t - couldn't drive either.

Click to expand...

Time to flip the fridge over onto gas...... Got to keep the beer cold some how....


you can (for the op's sake) get a "smart" S relay to do the battery charging needs another constant live pulling from the battery its then set up via a small preset pot which is tweeked so it shoves power to the fridge/charge pins on the gray/white socket when the engine is running (and the alternator is shoving out enough charge) but then cuts out when the car is turned off all automatic and no need to pick up a signal from the alternator

Andy Monty said:

Time to flip the fridge over onto gas...... Got to keep the beer cold some how....

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Ofcourse.

Andy Monty said:

you can (for the op's sake) get a "smart" S relay to do the battery charging needs another constant live pulling from the battery its then set up via a small preset pot which is tweeked so it shoves power to the fridge/charge pins on the gray/white socket when the engine is running (and the alternator is shoving out enough charge) but then cuts out when the car is turned off all automatic and no need to pick up a signal from the alternator

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That's a good idea. Pin 9 on my 13-pin is constant live, and pin 10 is switched live via relay in the car. I've adjusted it so it cuts power at 12.8 volt. These two pins power the fridge while driving and charging the caravan battery. In addition, two relays are connected to the rear (red) light clusters of the caravan, so if I turn off the ignition or switch off the lights on the car, power will not be drawn from the caravan at all, but use it's own battery (fridge don't work then, as this seriously kills the battery). It's idiot-safe what way.

Andy Monty said:

you can (for the op's sake) get a "smart" S relay to do the battery charging needs another constant live pulling from the battery its then set up via a small preset pot which is tweeked so it shoves power to the fridge/charge pins on the gray/white socket when the engine is running (and the alternator is shoving out enough charge) but then cuts out when the car is turned off all automatic and no need to pick up a signal from the alternator

Click to expand...

Exactly as I said earlier, I just didn't explain it clear enough lol. When I said it sense's the higher output of the alternator, I meant that it senses the higher voltage through the extra live from the battery via the adjustable pot. It's not even that hard to run the extra constant live to the back so it is a very good automatic system to use as Andy says.

Just make sure that who ever does this job actually does run 2 dedicated cables from the battery to the boot area and that they are thick enough as stated in the fitting instructions of the particular unit you get, as many of the garages/caravan places that would do this nearly always look for the quickest and easiest way of doing things. If they try to save themselves the hassle of running the dedicated cables to the back, then they will try and take an ignition fed feed from the loom and there simply isn't a cable heavy enough in the loom to feed -
1. The Fridge
2. Charge the Battery/Battery's
3. What ever it was originaly feeding to start with.
If they do try and cheat and do it the quick & easy way, what ever wire they use in the car's loom would most likely melt when you are towing a caravan and the cable is trying to feed all the things listed above.

The "Ryder TF1170-3 - Super Combi" is a very good smart combination/split charging unit with a higher current rating for those caravans with larger fridges that would need more amps to work.