BLKC99 said:

I have limited access to the Selenia 10w60 oil technical information but which ever way I am not going to contrast any more opinions further, I hear your words, maybe the Selenia is not the best multigrade out there...which ever way I wont be changing the oil what ever the comments or arguments are brought up The Selenia 10w60 will do me just fine, my cars purrs and loves the juicy stuff :yum: so its also not complaining about its new supplements that it has

For you guys that keep on suggesting that people in the UK need to accommodate their cars with a lower _w oil viscosity for winter temperatures, in central Europe and many other far eastern European countries you guys may experience severe temperatures below -20 °C, sure you guys will need to accommodate it for those temperatures but in most parts of the UK, you will never experience those kind of tempreatures.....

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I agree with you Selenia 10W60 is a good oil and will do it's job just fine. I just said that the Selenia 10W60 isn't a fully synthetic oil and is the same as Selenia 20K which is not a bad oil at all! It's just that there are a lot better oils out there. Also don't be fooled by the 10WXX branding it's the kinematic viscosity @ 40º C, @ 100º C and the HTHS figures that determine how "thick" and oil is. There are 5W40 oils out there that are thinner at 40º C than the Mobil 0W40. Also your 2.4 engine is never going to develop higher oil temperatures than a 1.8 or a 1.6 not to mention a turbocharged engine and you will never see it pass 70 degress centigrade on a hot summer day after some very hard driving. If they say you should use 10W60 than the engineering tolerances in that engine require such an oil i.e. the 1.6 obviosly does not like an oil thicker than 40, I once put in some 5W50 and I could here the tappets at all times with the 0/5W40 it's rather quiet. Another thing I also wanted to point out is that the thinner the oil when cold the better for the engine – 90% of engine wear occurs during startups. An oil with big difference between warm/cold grades are very difficult to make require quality PAO basestocks and special viscosity modifiers and that’s the reason they are so expensive. It would be best if there was an oil with 0W60 grade but unfortunately no such things exist. Also Ferraris, Porsches, Lexus (LFA), AMGs etc have Mobil 1 0W40 as a factory fill I doubt that it’s just corporate politics there.

I've beEn through this rather technical thread, and most of it escapes me! So, what on the Ope site is an acceptable alternative? Or, should I be using Mobil 1 as the Selenia does seem rather pricey?

Ta

Clowny said:

I've beEn through this rather technical thread, and most of it escapes me! So, what on the Ope site is an acceptable alternative? Or, should I be using Mobil 1 as the Selenia does seem rather pricey?

Ta

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Post #23.

Yellow Peril said:

Post #23.

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i'll be doing "post 23" next week as i got fed up of debating and went out and bought 5 litres of mobil 1 0w40 . winters approching and i need full protection!

so when selenia says the recommended 2.4 oil is their 10w60 (racing), I shouldn't assume I can use any other 10w60 from other brands?

Because my car drinks about 1L per 1000km of mobil 1 10w40 which is too much and I need to change brands or viscosity. It drank alot less with selenia 20k.


I got Liquimoly Synthoil Race Tech GT1 (10w60). It seems one of the best oils out there.

spyshagg said:

so when selenia says the recommended 2.4 oil is their 10w60 (racing), I shouldn't assume I can use any other 10w60 from other brands?

Because my car drinks about 1L per 1000km of mobil 1 10w40 which is too much and I need to change brands or viscosity. It drank alot less with selenia 20k.


I got Liquimoly Synthoil Race Tech GT1 (10w60). It seems one of the best oils out there.

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There are a lot of Mobil counterfeits where I live. 1 liter per 1000kms is a lot in such case putting a thicker oil won't cure the problem. It could just be the oil that is crap. But try the selenia racing or mobil 1 peak life 5W50. Is there any smoke coming out of it? Have you checked for leaks?

lots of white smoke on cold startups after many hours turned off. No blue smoke or any type of smoke when really pushing the engine (that I can see through the mirror anyway).
I has one leak in the crankshaft sealant (gearbox side) but i always had it.


Consumption with selenia was about 0,3L but since changing to Mobil1 a year a go (30,000km), it has increased to these ridiculous values. Not sure if related but thats why I'm changing brands again.

Engine compression tests are great. All cylinders are even.

Just some experience from the tropics;

I use selenia racing 10w60 - engine requires topup (Done 120,000km)
Another stilo uses LM 10w60 GT oil - engine does not require topup (Done 80,000km)
Another stilo uses LM 5w-40 - Engine requires irregular topup (Done 100,000km)
Another stilo uses any 0w-40 oil (cheapest being best) - Engine requires topup and somewhat on its last legs (overhauled at 60,000km).. (Done 140,000km)

our driving patterns are roughly 70% city 30% highway @ 100 - 120km/h ; however when we get together we go 170 - 210km/h sometimes hours at a stretch during joy rides.

Sorry to drag this thread up again. I have just changed my engine oil and used the Mobil Fully synthetic 10 60 extended life. After reading this thread through to the end it seems klike it may have been an unwise choice for the winter. from what I can see 0-40 fully synthetic is best for the winter because of ta thin viscosity and for teh summer a 10-60 oil because the engine apparently gets hot.
TBH it runs really nicely on the 10-60 mobil 1 but what worries me is when it really gets cold. as ,according to some opinions, the "thinner" 0-40 would be better.
Still a bit confused as to which engine oil is best for the engine.

Lol yes it's quite the debate isn't it? I've used 3 different grades in my 2.4 and they are as follows..... 10w 40, 0w 30 and just recently 5w40. My personal choice is the 5w 40. My 2.4 engine (like some others on here) likes to drink its own oil and I found this the most when using the Mobil 1 0w stuff (and it's like 50 quid!!), I also thought it seemed "rattley" leading me to think that it was perhaps too thin? Now this could be just my 75000 mile engine as I know someone on here who has no issues with using this grade at all? My thougts for using The 5w fully synth stuff is that its the close to the handbook recommended grade which is 10w 40 and so far, no topping up needed?

Personally I think you'll be fine using 10w 60 as I don't think it get that cold over here to do any harm

gadgemyster said:

Lol yes it's quite the debate isn't it? I've used 3 different grades in my 2.4 and they are as follows..... 10w 40, 0w 30 and just recently 5w40. My personal choice is the 5w 40. My 2.4 engine (like some others on here) likes to drink its own oil and I found this the most when using the Mobil 1 0w stuff (and it's like 50 quid!!), I also thought it seemed "rattley" leading me to think that it was perhaps too thin? Now this could be just my 75000 mile engine as I know someone on here who has no issues with using this grade at all? My thougts for using The 5w fully synth stuff is that its the close to the handbook recommended grade which is 10w 40 and so far, no topping up needed?

Personally I think you'll be fine using 10w 60 as I don't think it get that cold over here to do any harm

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Thanks for the reply. Thinking about it logically your reasoning makes perfect sense and coupled with your testing experience I think I would go for the recommendation of 5 40 fully synthetic. I know what you mean by 'tappy' as Mine was a bit like that befor, but now with the 10 60 FS it is really smooth but starts on third turn whereas it was first spin before. Maybe its just that the spark plugs are single prong.

tony_m said:

?........Maybe its just that the spark plugs are single prong.

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well if you do every change them I recommend using NGK iridium plugs, their still single pronged (electrode) but the tip is made really thin and produces a much brighter and intense spark ...... A little pricey but cos there made of iridium they last ages