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Technical Changing Rear Discs (04 JTD)

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Technical Changing Rear Discs (04 JTD)

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Steve148

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Hi -

Need to put new discs on the back end of my trusty Stilo. Is is possible to slip the discs on and off without removing the caliper mount bracket, or does that have to come off too?

Also I have a sticking n/s caliper at the back - I have cleaned & reassembled the assembly 3x without improvement - the rubber seal has a visible tear, so I'm assuming that corrosion or grit is preventing the piston from relaxing it's grip, and that a recon unit from Budweg (thanks PNL) is the way to go. Any comments or advice about that procedure would be appreciated.

(NB - seems the recent bad weather has taken it's toll on rear brakes - never seen so many posts on that subject...!)
 
no caliper has to come off as it has to be 'screwed' back to take new pads

bleed it well - and it's not that hard to recon yourself (you would only need an electric drill and special taper tool to score the cylinder + new seals/rings)

rears should be the last to go (less weight on the back compared to the front - so if they did go first you've some problem; try bleeding?!)
 
12[X] said:
no caliper has to come off as it has to be 'screwed' back to take new pads
Click to expand...

Sorry 12, didn't explain myself well. I know the caliper has to come off, but the caliper is mounted to a bracket (which allows it to move laterally but not vertically).

That bracket extends around the disc, but isn't removed for a pad change - see piccie. I don't have a dismantled Stilo in sight, but it seems feasible that the discs could slip on and off the hub without disturbing the bracket. I'll try it that way, anyway...

Thanks for the info about special taper tool to score the cylinder + new seals/rings, but on balance £80 for a guaranteed recon unit seems preferable. I wouldn't be confident of my skills at that level of work.
 

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if my memory serves me right the bracket is part of the caliper assembly (though i might be wrong as it's been a year since i've done my brakes) regardless.. it is very straight forward (apart for winding back the piston - you would do well to get a special tool.. but if you want to do it cheap - use a pair of mole grips and a home made piston/bolt on threads to push while you wind back). The wind back tool can be acquired on the cheap from toolmix.com + I think some one might have done a guide for the brakes.. see the guides section! Best of luck
 
It has to come off because you won’t be able to pull the disc forward far enough to clear the hub.
It’s only two bolts and will only go back on one way so it’s not really a problem.
The disc can sometimes take a lot of persuading to come off so be prepared for a fight, I have on occasion smashed discs trying to remove them as they can rust onto the hub very tightly.
I think the stilo has two threaded holes in the disc which you can wind bolts into to force the disc off.
If you are replacing them with new discs try tapping them forward with a hammer as you wind the bolts in.
 
The disc can sometimes take a lot of persuading to come off so be prepared for a fight, I have on occasion smashed discs trying to remove them as they can rust onto the hub very tightly.
I had trouble with a front disc recently (not Stilo), disc was just stuck on and it would not let go.

Sort of thing where Haynes manual says "Remove securing screws and then remove disc"
Yeah sure
Hammer blows, release bolts wound in to breaking point, huge puller and loads of heat, still not going, thought it was going to crack with the force, hours of wasted time.

CIMG1343a.JPG
Sudden brainwave, reassembled everything including brakes apart from the two disc securing screws. Car front securely up in the air, started engine, put it in gear and got the axles turning with the engine, appied the brakes, ding, disc released straightaway, effortlessly.

The turning force was MUCH more than it could withstand compared to the pulling force.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
12[X] said:
if my memory serves me right the bracket is part of the caliper assembly
Click to expand...

No, it isn't. The caliper assembly bolts to the mounting bracket shown in the pic. The caliper is removed for a pad change but the mounting bracket isn't.

I don't know if a new bracket will come with the recon caliper - it wasn't shown with one in the web catalogue, just the bare caliper.

Fingers crossed, will report back.
 
cris1117 said:
It has to come off because you won’t be able to pull the disc forward far enough to clear the hub
Click to expand...


Thanks cris - I suspected that might be the case, but was hoping to avoid shifting 4 additional rusty bolts - not as easy when they're mounted to the rear of the hub.
 
Deckchair5 said:
Sudden brainwave, reassembled everything including brakes apart from the two disc securing screws. Car front securely up in the air, started engine, put it in gear and got the axles turning with the engine, appied the brakes, ding, disc released straightaway, effortlessly.

The turning force was MUCH more than it could withstand compared to the pulling force.
Click to expand...

Very clever solution, Decks. Now can you think of another one for the undriven rear wheels...? :(
 
Sure, just select Stilo 4 wheel drive, low ratio and it's the same as the fronts

If you have the UK spec model with just two wheel drive then see your dealer today to enable the 4 wheel drive option via examiner:)
 
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Deckchair5 said:
Sure, just select Stilo 4 wheel drive, low ratio and it's the same as the fronts

If you have the UK spec model with just two wheel drive then see your dealer today to enable the 4 wheel drive option via examiner:)
Click to expand...

I'm not wasting money on them fancy main dealers, with their rip-off prices. I'll just use my elm USB reader. 4wd is probably in one of the drop-down menus. :p
 
News update # 01 -

- Caliper mounting bolts are rather solid (s'pose they need to be) but a 17mm socket shifted them easily.

- Old discs came off easily with 3 or 4 hammer taps to the rear whilst turning.

- Old discs are 250mm diameter, worn to about 8mm thick, but can't have been more than 10-11mm when new. This is odd, as replacements sourced from ebay (370330550009) are described as 284mm x 22mm. Hopefully it's a listing error, but they haven't arrived yet so I'm praying to the God Of Haynes who watches over us all....
 
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I've messaged the supplier to warn them that I will be rejecting the delivery if they're the wrong size. But after checking the listing again I'm 95% confident it's OK - their part number is VAPMDC389, and the illustration image is MDC389.JPG. MDC389 is the correct Mintex part number. So, I think their system for listing dimensions in ebay ads has malfunctioned.

But to be on the safe side I've checked with a local factor and they can get same/next day delivery if necessary. So I just need to make the courier stand there while I open the package, and then everything will be clear.

Eeeeh, nothing's simple these days is it?
 
News update #2 -

- Budweg recon caliper arrived today - impossible to distinguish from a new unit, very impressive.

- Phoned the eBay disc supplier, they confirmed it's a listing error and the 251mmx10mm units should arrive tomorrow.

- Have cleaned the hubs thoroughly (the ASB sensor rings were amazingly clogged with rust/dust, being magnetic) and degreased the removed components. Also gently loosened the n/s hydraulic joint where the new caliper & hose are going.

- Now for a shower and some bait.... :eek:)
 
News update #3 -

- New Caliper fitted & bled very easily.

- Cancelled overdue eBay order and bought Bosch discs from local factor (£40 for 2).

- New discs, pads & calipers installed in about 30 mins - really easy with the car jacked up and everything clean & ready.

Now back on the road, and thanks to everyone who provided advice. It's not a hard job if you proceed methodically and patiently.
 
Deckchair5 said:
The disc can sometimes take a lot of persuading to come off so be prepared for a fight.

Sudden brainwave, reassembled everything including brakes apart from the two disc securing screws. Car front securely up in the air, started engine, put it in gear and got the axles turning with the engine, appied the brakes, ding, disc released straightaway, effortlessly.
Click to expand...

To my opinion a very clever but a bit risky undertaking. I experienced the same problem, after hammering for 20 minutes there was no movement at all. Then I found another way to loosen the rotors. There for you need a length of approxemately 20 cm threaded bar e.g. M12, with nuts of 17 mm. After removing the caliper you can use the caliper bracket as a support to press off the disk. Take the threaded bar and screw two nuts on one end, tighten this nuts to each other with two spanners in order to create a bolt head. Put the other end of the treaded bar through a hole in the caliper bracket, see red arrow in picture. Ones, the bar is through the hole turn another nut on it between the calliper support and the disk. Now you can tighten the last nut and prevent the bar from turning around with a spanner on the created bolt head. Put pressure on the disk and hammer it a bit, hitting the disk on the outer edge, on the wear lip, to leave the disk undamaged if you want to use it again. Unscrew the bolt a bit, turn the disk 180 degrees and put the tension on again. It wil come off with a bang.
Good luck
 

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