do i need one of them rewind tools to change the front brake pads??

few days ago i hear a grinding sound when i am brakeing and some times not when im brakeing

and the man at the garage told me i need to change my pads at the front,when he was changing my coils

1.6 stilo
ive got the pads to change

thanks

forsh said:

do i need one of them rewind tools to change the front brake pads??

few days ago i hear a grinding sound when i am brakeing and some times not when im brakeing

and the man at the garage told me i need to change my pads at the front,when he was changing my coils

1.6 stilo
ive got the pads to change

thanks

Click to expand...

No you dont need a wind back tool for the fronts but as you say you can hear a grinding when you brake it looks like its also the discs you will be changing as well as the pads..

You will need to get the actuator pushed back to get the new pads in.

I use a G clamp and a piece of wood to force the caliper back into the recess.
Process I follow:
Wheel removed, remove the bottom bolt holding the caliper, you may need to put a spanner on the end of the dust seal to hold it as you undo the bolt.
Pivot the caliper up and tie it to the strut to stop it from falling.
Remove pads, clean up general area as there is alls orts of crud from the brakes.
Force the caliper back.
Pivot back over the pads and replace bolt.
I always clean the bolt up and grease with copper based grease as the caliper moves on the bolt. If i am in good mood I then clean and grease the bottom bolt.

It is mucky. Don't use parafin or turps as these contail oils, petrol is good or if you do fibreglassing acetone is better.

Bol
Multihull

good guide

if i may be so bold as to add to it:

undo the calliper (you would need a little plastic pipe to go on it and into a container to collect the fluid) and clamp the brake pipe before forcing the cylinder in (fluid has to go somewhere.. or the cylinder won't budge.. and it is a bad idea to force it back into the reservoir + a single cylinder will make it overflow).. once the pads are fitted - bleed the brake cylinder via the calliper.. (leave your collection setup where it is and start the car, always make sure it is not in gear and properly secured, the pressure from the vacuum reservoir would slowly bleed your brake for you - be liberal as you need to replace all the fluid). Bleeding has to be done in a specific order (from closest to furthest in the system) i suggest you do your brakes in that order (so as not to do the work twice): front passenger, driver, rear pas, rear driver (that's for a uk car.. and you don't need to do the back seeing as these pads are not being changed.. but do ensure they have a sufficient amount of brake pad left.. generally i replace all pads when even one is due.. for me the wear ratio is about 60 – 100.. for a 100% of wear on front pads rears get about 60% wear.. but this greatly depends on the weight you have at the rear, pressure/air in the system, condition of the discs, driving style, etc.)

when pads are fitted and system has been bled - start the car (again ensuring it is secure and not in gear) and pump the brake a few times (to pressurise the system properly) then go and try to turn the disk by hand (it may rub a bit – that’s ok and should disappear once pads wear in) but if rubbing is irregular - then your disks are warped and have to be machined or replaced (although if the rubbing is not severe - you may get away with just the pads for now.. but they would wear off quicker and you may get brake fade)

best of luck to you

ps: ensure to plug the brake wear sensor in
pps: please dispose of the brake fluid in an ethical way.. your local authority provides special disposal/recycling centre/s.. it’s free! Or, if like me you are lazy, your local garage (normally) would not object if you put it into their disposal reservoirs (makes no difference really and ensures you come back..)

managed to do it ,but...........


the bolts that clamp the calipers together ,one bolt threaded badly,so i had to remake the screw with a slighlty bigger thread,tempory solution


now i need to find the bolt and bolt holder thing with the rubber bit on


hope you know what i mean as i dont know the name of the thing i need

someone

its about 5-6 cm long,has a thread inside it,and a rubber thing around it to protect it from dust etc

there is 2 of them on the caliper

thanks to all,you all helped me nicely

lucky i have a work place that has all the tools i needed and a nice boss (my misses) that let me use them


i think in some weeks,months i will buy new calipers an discs also,,just need to make it pass inspection this month ,then i can still goto work and pay for my new bits i need

ahh found its called a guide pin

just need to find some place that sells them now

multihull said:

You will need to get the actuator pushed back to get the new pads in.

I use a G clamp and a piece of wood to force the caliper back into the recess.
Process I follow:
Wheel removed, remove the bottom bolt holding the caliper, you may need to put a spanner on the end of the dust seal to hold it as you undo the bolt.
Pivot the caliper up and tie it to the strut to stop it from falling.
Remove pads, clean up general area as there is alls orts of crud from the brakes.
Force the caliper back.
Pivot back over the pads and replace bolt.
I always clean the bolt up and grease with copper based grease as the caliper moves on the bolt. If i am in good mood I then clean and grease the bottom bolt.

It is mucky. Don't use parafin or turps as these contail oils, petrol is good or if you do fibreglassing acetone is better.

Bol
Multihull

Click to expand...

Not sure about greasing the bolts, except under the heads. They have to stay tight at 70 Newton metres torque and new ones come with locktite smeared on their threads so they will stay put.

strictly speaking you're not even suppose to reuse these bolts.. details details