Guys need some advice. Recently (few days ) I have noticed that when I am going in lower gears at slow speed ( 30-40) , the engine temperature indicator is going towards H ( still not touched the RED zone) , but it is fine on motorway when I am going 70-80 speeds. When the engine temperature is going towards H , there is a lot of noise from engine compartment. I think it is the fan. This fan also runs for a while even after I switch off the engine ( 1 minute or so). Please could you advice me what could be wrong. I am scared to take it to a garage without understanding the problem as they might rip me off.
Technical Engine temperature going towards H
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Technical Engine temperature going towards H
Forgot to mention mine is Stilo dynamique , 2003 model.
Is it better to lose your engine
Plenty of threads on here about overheating and what to check for.
Have a read using the Search tool (also check Guides)
Have you checked your coolant level or condition yet? Or if you've got a leak? Worth looking at the radiator for any damage too!
Then failing noticing anything there you should take it to the garage, could be any number of things. If your not loosing coolant then it could be a faulty water pump, or the system could be presurising (I had a radiator hole once and it never lost a drop but it sucked in air causing the system to boil).
Then failing noticing anything there you should take it to the garage, could be any number of things. If your not loosing coolant then it could be a faulty water pump, or the system could be presurising (I had a radiator hole once and it never lost a drop but it sucked in air causing the system to boil).
You have a two speed radiator fan, same fan -two circuits. Hi speed fan circuit is only switched on when your coolant temp is getting very high (that's the noisy one) so it sounds like your slow speed fan circuit has a problem. Commonly a load resistor to reduce the voltage and provide the slower fan speed has poor contact or is broken
For the moment, use your internal cabin air fan on high to reduce engine temp as this does the same job
For the moment, use your internal cabin air fan on high to reduce engine temp as this does the same job
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That's usually a sure sign you've got a (partially) blown head gasket.
Did you sell it on quickly
I have switched on the internal cabin air fan on high ( in the cold air setting. I mean blue section not the red section one which is for hot air ),This doesn't show any effect and the temperature is still towards the H. Strangely it is perfectly in the middle ( between C and H) when I am going at higher speeds anywhere between 70-100mph.BTW if the problem is what you have mentioned how much should the repair cost typically? Thanks in advance.
To cool the car switch it to HOT not Cold, the idea is to draw heat out of the coolant.
Trev
Trev
Yes, that's the idea, you're trying to draw heat out of the engine coolant so have the heater set to hot and blow the heat away
Strangely it is perfectly in the middle ( between C and H) when I am going at higher speeds anywhere between 70-100mph
That's because the radiator fan isnt required when you're moving at speed and the engine mechanical thermostat is adjusting the coolant flow. But when the thermostat is wide open (as in slow moving traffic with low radiator air flow) and it still can't get the coolant temp down then that's when you need the rad fan to increase the air flow through the radiator
How much should the repair cost typically?
It will need to be investigated just what is wrong with the low speed fan circuit. A simple poor contact might be quick and very cheap to repair.
If it's a 1.6 engine type
I would check the resistance across the resistor O10 and check for power on either side of the resistor as this is most likely where the problem lies.
BUT BE AWARE THE FAN COULD START AT ANY TIME EVEN WITH THE IGNITION SWITCHED OFF. WATCH YOUR FINGERS! WATCH YOUR METER LEADS!
Leave it to a professional if you're not sure
Other engine types have very different designed circuits
Strangely it is perfectly in the middle ( between C and H) when I am going at higher speeds anywhere between 70-100mph
That's because the radiator fan isnt required when you're moving at speed and the engine mechanical thermostat is adjusting the coolant flow. But when the thermostat is wide open (as in slow moving traffic with low radiator air flow) and it still can't get the coolant temp down then that's when you need the rad fan to increase the air flow through the radiator
How much should the repair cost typically?
It will need to be investigated just what is wrong with the low speed fan circuit. A simple poor contact might be quick and very cheap to repair.
If it's a 1.6 engine type
I would check the resistance across the resistor O10 and check for power on either side of the resistor as this is most likely where the problem lies.
BUT BE AWARE THE FAN COULD START AT ANY TIME EVEN WITH THE IGNITION SWITCHED OFF. WATCH YOUR FINGERS! WATCH YOUR METER LEADS!
Leave it to a professional if you're not sure
Other engine types have very different designed circuits
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That's usually a sure sign you've got a (partially) blown head gasket.
Did you sell it on quickly
It was definately the radiator, you could hear it sucking in air after you switched the engine off.
It was a lease, and it was returned only weeks before it was due to go back anyway.... great car it was too.
Had a Head gasket go on my mini between cylinders, queue 2 cylinder tractor mode.
Yes, that's the idea, you're trying to draw heat out of the engine coolant so have the heater set to hot and blow the heat away
Strangely it is perfectly in the middle ( between C and H) when I am going at higher speeds anywhere between 70-100mph
That's because the radiator fan isnt required when you're moving at speed and the engine mechanical thermostat is adjusting the coolant flow. But when the thermostat is wide open (as in slow moving traffic with low radiator air flow) and it still can't get the coolant temp down then that's when you need the rad fan to increase the air flow through the radiator
How much should the repair cost typically?
It will need to be investigated just what is wrong with the low speed fan circuit. A simple poor contact might be quick and very cheap to repair.
View attachment 68454
If it's a 1.6 engine type
I would check the resistance across the resistor O10 and check for power on either side of the resistor as this is most likely where the problem lies.
View attachment 68456
BUT BE AWARE THE FAN COULD START AT ANY TIME EVEN WITH THE IGNITION SWITCHED OFF. WATCH YOUR FINGERS! WATCH YOUR METER LEADS!
Leave it to a professional if you're not sure
Other engine types have very different designed circuits
I think I will leave it to the professional as you have suggested.Few questions
1) I have MOT and full service due and I can only do it from 03-Oct-09.Will it be a problem if I continue to drive the car with this issue
2) roughly how much am i looking at for the repair.
What engine do you have? The cooling system electrics are very different between models
If you have a 1.6 type engine then you could perhaps just bridge the resistor and have hi speed fan operating every time until you can have it fixed
Running without the normal slow fan operation is always a risk but having your heater blowing on hot and turning the engine off when in stationary traffic will lessen the risk
If you have a 1.6 type engine then you could perhaps just bridge the resistor and have hi speed fan operating every time until you can have it fixed
Running without the normal slow fan operation is always a risk but having your heater blowing on hot and turning the engine off when in stationary traffic will lessen the risk
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I wouldn't recommend driving it for several week until the MOT is due, its worth getting it checked now. Even if they say its not a problem, at least you'll know you've done everything you can.
Or you could just drive it and hope for the best, and run the risk of having to fork out for a new radiator, head gasket, skimmed head (or replaced if its totally knackered) and all the time and labour that will incur.
Do the right thing, panic and take it to the garage! Its what I'd do!
Or you could just drive it and hope for the best, and run the risk of having to fork out for a new radiator, head gasket, skimmed head (or replaced if its totally knackered) and all the time and labour that will incur.
Do the right thing, panic and take it to the garage!
Its what I'd do!
:yeahthat:
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I need some help here, I thought cooling systems were pressurised deliberately so the boiling point was raised? Surely a holed radiator would force coolant out, not suck air in, and drop the required pressure and cause early overheating? When the coolant cooled the conraction would then suck air in... or am I missing something here?Anyway to the OP.
You do have coolant to the right mix in the car dont you not just pure water?
Could be my bad...
Presurised and properties of the coolant stop your car boiling. But your system can over presurise, hence overflow catch tank, or in the case of my mini a overflow pipe to the bottom of the engine bay.
However my radiator holed and this sucked in air, which in turn caused an air lock, and i'm sure some of you have had this in a car at some point, but basically it means you cars coolant doesn't circulate then and your car literally boils.
If this guys system checks out ok then a simple bleeding of the system might be all he needs. I'm not so sure about moderns, but in my mini to clear an airlock you took off the rad cap, turned the heater to hot and then started the engine (from cold) and let it idle until it had warmed, eventually you'd get bubbling in the radiator, followed by a burp and then the coolant level would drop considerably as the air exited the system, you then top up with mixed coolant. Switch engine off and let it cool before re-fitting the rad cap.
Seriously though he should take his car to the garage to have it checked.... and if he doesn't want to risk paying for a check up that shows nothing wrong why not drive somewhere with a nice picturesque view, then phone the AA lol. They'll happily check your system for leaks but they can't presure test his radiator.
However my radiator holed and this sucked in air, which in turn caused an air lock, and i'm sure some of you have had this in a car at some point, but basically it means you cars coolant doesn't circulate then and your car literally boils.
If this guys system checks out ok then a simple bleeding of the system might be all he needs. I'm not so sure about moderns, but in my mini to clear an airlock you took off the rad cap, turned the heater to hot and then started the engine (from cold) and let it idle until it had warmed, eventually you'd get bubbling in the radiator, followed by a burp and then the coolant level would drop considerably as the air exited the system, you then top up with mixed coolant. Switch engine off and let it cool before re-fitting the rad cap.
Seriously though he should take his car to the garage to have it checked.... and if he doesn't want to risk paying for a check up that shows nothing wrong why not drive somewhere with a nice picturesque view, then phone the AA lol. They'll happily check your system for leaks but they can't presure test his radiator.
![12[X]](https://cdn.fiatforum.com/data/avatars/m/11/11062.jpg?1637729219){kind=avatar}
1.4 bar on the stilo, if the pressure goes over 1.4 it is released via a pressure valve (built into the coolant cap – if i’m mistaken regarding the operating pressure, or you wish to check it for your vehicle – you would normally find it stamped onto the coolant cap).
a hole would leak pressure, although it may suck in air when coolant is cooling; however, if there is a hole, I’d expect the system to be depleted fairly quickly.. lower pressure = lower boiling point = less cooling = higher engine temperature = more boiling = more leakage (it’s a feedback loop)
stilos have dedicated bleed points (petrols have 2.. at least mine does, diesels have 3)
hope this helps.. if you are worried about leakage - go to any garage and ask for the system to be pressure tested (the tool is very simple.. even AA carry it.. just a coolant cap, pipe, hand pump and pressure gauge)
Guys , some update. Being a complete idiot with car, I just opened the bonnet to check the coolant level and it is almost empty. Then took it to a garage and he topped it up and checked few bits and said it should be fine now. He said there is no visible leakage .I am going to get the car serviced( major service), so what should I ask the garage to look for
1) Is there any problem in the car ,because of which the coolant went so down?
2) Because the coolant went so down would it have done any further damage to any parts that need checking now?
Some expert advice would be greatly appreciated. Just to mention , after the coolant is topped up the temperature seems to be right in the middle of C and H.
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Hang on... In Post #4 a week ago you were advised to look at the coolant level but you didnt?
What point is there people giving help and advice if you dont give a toss and ignore it?
As for your last 2 questions :-
1) Yes probably... look through the Thread.
2) Yes probably... look through the Thread.
