Not replaced mine. I hadn't used mine for ages and it stopped working. Gassed it up and it works fine again.
General Stilo 1.6 Remap - 1.6 ONLY (is it poss?)
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General Stilo 1.6 Remap - 1.6 ONLY (is it poss?)
Not replaced mine. I hadn't used mine for ages and it stopped working. Gassed it up and it works fine again.
I wish that was the case with mine, my pipe has actually snapped, the dealer said that because its so low, quite alot of "ruff" drivers snap them easily when goin over them stupid half size speed bumps and mounting curbs etc...
Well, i guess i'll just have to keep pretending that i have by keeping my windows up during any weather LOL
yep mine was snapped when i bought it, luckiliy in warranty, but out of warranty your looking at 130-150 fitted and regassed,
TBH, i think i could live with payin that, it would cost me £46 for the part, then £49.99 to regass so for a few more quid i dont have the hassle and i can laugh at someone else gettin dirty! LOL
Have you tried cleaning the inlet control valve as per this guide?:
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo-guides/83260-cleaning-your-inlet-control-valve.html
Can help stabilise tickover and avoid stalling. Did for me anyway...
Hi Yellow, i know what chicken is saying because i have already cleaned my control valve and the "irratic" -ness stopped but we are talkin about its overall easiness to stall. Mine is still easy to stall even after cleaning the valve ALTHOUGH i definately noticed an improvement. (I removed my valve completly and cleaned it like new)
I don't know if mine needs it yet as she's still a baby, ish... Its an 05 plate with only 26k miles on the clock. I bought her last June with only 13k miles. I may have a look this weekend just to make sure she's running to the best of her ability.
done mine 3 times up to now, first one at 23k,
Guess that settles it then. Would it be best to do this when the engine is cold or is it ok to do this after i've driven the 10 minutes home on the motorway? I don't fancy being scorched...
the throttle body isnt that hot, just mind your hand on the exhaust manifold its boiling!,
i used an artist brush with some wd on it to get right on to the lip where the butterfly meets, you'll be suprised at the amount of crap that comes off ,,
i used an artist brush with some wd on it to get right on to the lip where the butterfly meets, you'll be suprised at the amount of crap that comes off ,,
lol, i was surprised at the amount of crap mainly because stilo is the only car ive heard of that needs this doin to it:?
Strange BUT it does make a difference!
the honey monster
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i would like the flat spots iorned out not the bhp! so thinking baout the £200! ive stalled twice and it was becase of a badly angled drive and the first day of having the car but my 1.6 is gr8 it never stalls and i can go from sitting wtill to second gear with only tickeling the throttle! i can pull away from a stop in 1st without using my throttle at all! so i dont know where all these stalls are coming from? ever thought about working on cluch controll?
i can sit on a hill and a steap on at tht in 1st and not use my throttle and brakes untill i go to pull away,
but i got brought up driving old school none of this using brakes use ur cluch and gears! :yuck:
i can sit on a hill and a steap on at tht in 1st and not use my throttle and brakes untill i go to pull away,
but i got brought up driving old school none of this using brakes use ur cluch and gears! :yuck:
i would like the flat spots iorned out not the bhp! so thinking baout the £200! ive stalled twice and it was becase of a badly angled drive and the first day of having the car but my 1.6 is gr8 it never stalls and i can go from sitting wtill to second gear with only tickeling the throttle! i can pull away from a stop in 1st without using my throttle at all! so i dont know where all these stalls are coming from? ever thought about working on clutch control?
i can sit on a hill, and a steep one at that, in 1st and not use my throttle and brakes until I go to pull away,
but i got brought up driving old school none of this using brakes use ur cluch and gears! :yuck:
I don't know what 'old school' you learned your driving in but it certainly wasn't the same as mine - and I dare say I'm a few years your senior - I was taught never to hold the car on the clutch because within a short time you will not have one, having burned it out!
the honey monster
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theres a massive difference between holding the car back with the clutch and holding the car back with the engine,
As soon as the accelerator is released and the throttle closes, engine braking comes into effect as long as the wheels remain connected via the transmission to the engine. (A c;luch or a torque converter can disengage the wheels or absorb braking energy.) The braking force varies depending on the engine, but also what gear the vehicle is in (Generally, the lower the gear, the higher the braking effect as long as the wheels continue to maintain traction with the road surface).
Engine braking passively reduces wear on brakes and helps a driver maintain control of the vehicle. Active use of engine braking (shifting into a lower gear) is advantageous when it is necessary to control speed while driving down very steep and long slopes. It should be applied before regular disk or drum brakes have been used, leaving the brakes available to make emergency stops. The desired speed is maintained by using engine braking to counteract the gravitational acceleration.
i was taught by a ex armed forces lorry driver who taught me to drive in a 18wheel articulated lorry where engine braking is more functunal than using a brake pedal
As soon as the accelerator is released and the throttle closes, engine braking comes into effect as long as the wheels remain connected via the transmission to the engine. (A c;luch or a torque converter can disengage the wheels or absorb braking energy.) The braking force varies depending on the engine, but also what gear the vehicle is in (Generally, the lower the gear, the higher the braking effect as long as the wheels continue to maintain traction with the road surface).
Engine braking passively reduces wear on brakes and helps a driver maintain control of the vehicle. Active use of engine braking (shifting into a lower gear) is advantageous when it is necessary to control speed while driving down very steep and long slopes. It should be applied before regular disk or drum brakes have been used, leaving the brakes available to make emergency stops. The desired speed is maintained by using engine braking to counteract the gravitational acceleration.
i was taught by a ex armed forces lorry driver who taught me to drive in a 18wheel articulated lorry where engine braking is more functunal than using a brake pedal
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the 1.6 can pull away in first without throttle, but you have very delicate and will will labour the engine causing more wear, you will also need to slip the clutch a certain degree to get this. the 1.9 jtd will do it happily all day long with no clutch slip.
its not good pratice to slip the clutch, i wouldnt double the clutch on a car like old school manual coach and lorrys i was taught many moons ago (having no synros), being old school is not always good on modern cars, you will cause extra wear.
the 1.6 for example will hold the revs for a few seconds when changing gear, if you do "old school" and double the clutch like i was taught you would end up over reving / crunching the box and burning out the clutch in no time.
some techniques are transferrable like engine braking on a long hill, though on the 1.6 engine braking is pretty minimal as its a pretty loose engine, but under normal driving round town for example its gears to go and brakes to slow. break wear is a non issue when you compare it to a burned out clutch or a knocked out big end as you have constantly laboured the engine.
its not good pratice to slip the clutch, i wouldnt double the clutch on a car like old school manual coach and lorrys i was taught many moons ago (having no synros), being old school is not always good on modern cars, you will cause extra wear.
the 1.6 for example will hold the revs for a few seconds when changing gear, if you do "old school" and double the clutch like i was taught you would end up over reving / crunching the box and burning out the clutch in no time.
some techniques are transferrable like engine braking on a long hill, though on the 1.6 engine braking is pretty minimal as its a pretty loose engine, but under normal driving round town for example its gears to go and brakes to slow. break wear is a non issue when you compare it to a burned out clutch or a knocked out big end as you have constantly laboured the engine.
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