post #27 (did you miss it )

must of thanks argonought

Oakley28 said:

no but that will be the weekend job. whats the best way to block it?

Thanks

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It's EGR valve for 90%. Try to block first if it helps buy replacement. It cost not small money but it's worth to do it - engine works much better and consumption is also a little more acceptable.

One more notice :
Last week I made 400 km and my computer told 6.5 l/100km but my calculation equaled in 6.86l/100km. Do you have same problem with computer? I have connect nav+.

Slavomir

Evening peeps! Hope I'm doing the right thing by bringing up an old thread here - I think this one is most relevant...

I'm having a small issue with my JTD at the moment and very poor fuel consumption. I had some issues with performance about 3 months ago, which I resolved by cleaning the MAP and MAF sensors with carb cleaner, and replacing the very dirty EGR valve with a brand new one (which I'd cleaned before without any luck). Basically now the car is driving pretty well, apart from a slight flat spot when accelerating from stopped and reading very low average consumption - it's crept down consistantly from 45mpg to now 39.9mpg (reset counter a few times). Bearing in mind that 6 months ago this was 55-ish then not good! - It's also chucking out a bit of gray-ish smoke on first few seconds whilst pulling away.

I took off and cleaned the intercooler hose (the bottom hose from intercooler to turbo, with two flexible hoses and one metal piece), and inspected this for damage, although no whistling noise as such. Noticed that it had started to cut into the plastic underbody liner where it passes into the engine bay, but it doesn't appear to have gone through yet (poor design for sure!). Checked along the hard plastic overboost tubing for any damage, and up towards the top of the engine, but can't see any gaping holes. I moved the valve up to the battery box last year, and wondered if it might have cracked it, but I can't find any strong-enough hosing to try replacing it with. Today I also tried running the car with the MAF sensor disconnected, thinking this might be the culprit, and it felt underpowered (as expected) but it poured black smoke out on acceleration and had even bigger turbo lag???

So... what to try? Should I blank off my (almost brand new) EGR valve tomorrow, try cleaning the overboost valve or just run it to FIAT!? Any suggestions would be brilliant! BTW I've used the search feature til I'm having nightmares about it lol. Cheers :slayer:

matty_b said:

So... what to try? Should I blank off my (almost brand new) EGR valve tomorrow....

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That's what I would try

..and also try to get some fault codes read (if any to read)

I presume it revs to red line easy enough ?

Argonought said:

That's what I would try

..and also try to get some fault codes read (if any to read)

I presume it revs to red line easy enough ?

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Cheers Argo! Yeah it revs no problems - I'll check it actually red-lines tomorrow. Good call on the fault code, I'll get the reader on the job in the morning (fiddly getting to that OBD port at the best of times!). The car is pretty much fine to drive though - if possibly not quite as powerful as before - it's mostly the MPG issue and slight turbo lag/smoking on pulling away from stationary...

Quick update - I've got my error code reader on the job this morning, but there are no stored codes. Blanked off my EGR valve with a lid from a baked-bean tin with bolt fastening holes punched by a screwdriver (and subsequently slashed my finger on it!), and drove it for about 30 miles today before taking it off - would like to do more miles to test but just don't trust that monkey tin lid not to crumble into my engine! With a mix of motorway and town driving the MPG was roughly the same, and apart from the engine seeming rough and slightly underpowered not much difference with the blanking gasket in place. So I'm not sure if I've proved the EGR is stuck open/faulty, functioning fine or if I've not done enough miles testing it blanked off! I don't think the bit of smoke either way is so much of an issue.

Thinking about it, I would guess this decreasing mpg issue might have started since I blasted out my MAP sensor with cleaner a few months ago - although it's consistently run smoother since, the fuel use has slowly crept up. Could I have killed the sensor, and would that account for the issue?

matty_b said:

Thinking about it, I would guess this decreasing mpg issue might have started since I blasted out my MAP sensor with cleaner a few months ago - although it's consistently run smoother since, the fuel use has slowly crept up. Could I have killed the sensor, and would that account for the issue?

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EGR looks good (as you'd expect really)

I'd try a new MAF myself as can't see what else it could be.

Examiner will report if MAF readings are outside predicted readings which can be handy. Thing is, you might just as well buy a new MAF as pay for an hour on Examiner.

That said, I've had poor mpg for a long time now and I've tried 2 MAFs. One supposedly brand new Bosch (seal was broken though :chin and another cheapo off eBay. Neither made any difference I could really detect but at least I managed to get a refund on the Bosch unit on the basis it was unsealed :slayer:

As all 3 gave similar results I surmised all must be good and ended up putting my original MAF back on (now 7 years old)

Hi all,
Bit of a problem emerged on MW jtd.
Semm to have mega flat spots and very little power.
tried unplugging the maf and boom full power !!
could i assume that the maf has gone skyward or is it when you disconnect it that another circuit gets taken out as well if you understand what i,m saying !
I had a similar fault on my brava jtd and threw a new maf in and it was sorted.
the only reason i,m asking is money is tight at the mo and didnt want to spend money where it wasnt needed.
I would welcome your thoughts/ideas

kind regards,

kev Walker

At least 90% certain to be the MAF I'd say.

Might be worth a clean with proper electrical cleaner first though.

Don't forget you'll need a 5-star tool to remove it the easy way.

Hi Argonaught,
Many many thanks for your reply.
I have removed the maf with the correct star socket ( bought them when i had my brava) and gave it a good clean. To be honest it looks like new. I cleaned the main body, the shrouded plate and the wires in the end with electrical cleaner.
With my Brava i bought just the blade and it worked fine and it was only £24.
i Have found just the blade for my JTD and they are wanting £44 delivered.
I know you should always replace with bosch but the cheapest bosch i can find is just short of £90.
Do you know what output you shuold get from a maf as i have a k-line lead and could check?
I have also remade the connections for the boost valve and resited it. The connections were not good , mind you its not a very good design, rubber or neoprene pipe would be so much better.
Look forward to hearing from you
Also anyone reading this do they have a maf they have kicking around they want to get rid of????


Kind regards

Kev Walker

New Bosch complete MAF for the JTD for £39.95 here:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270566689719&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Be quick, only 2 left.

Cheers for that Davren
I have messaged the guy to make sure its the right one.
I have now convinced myself that the maf is at fault, the fault is so much like what happned to my brava!!

Kind regards,


Kev Walker

Looks like a job for me aswell then

car emits alot of black smoke of acceleration
Seems to boost fine,
fuel economy is pretty poor

Im going to block the egr firstly.

The split intercooler pipe?Where do i find it?

Hi
Thanks for your post.
The more i research the more i,m convinced that the maf is at fault as i am not getting plumes of smoke out the back.
I have been out again this morning and farted around remaking the connections on the boost valve which i resited on the battery box.
It has now got a bit more go but still lumpy through the rev range.
I was wondering if there was anyway i could do a vaccum test on the pipes leading to from the boost valve?
Also if you follow the pipes one goes to the underside of the turbo and the other goes to a black box on the rear of the engine, any ideas what that box is? could that be at fault?
Many thanks for taking time to read this


Kind regards


Kev Walker

Kev,

I just replaced by boost valve with some info here on testing https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/234240-p0236-boost-pressure-code-info.html

If you're seeing the actuator move in at idle, then chances are the tubing is fine - whether the valve is doing what it should on the move won't be proven.

It the acuator is NOT being moved, then you either have a dodgy valve or tubing. To eliminate the tubing, connect the tube ends together that fit onto the valve - at idle, the acuator should be fully pulled in - best not to go for a run like that though Be carful with the tube connections at the valve as the smaller one is a VERY snug fit on the plastic and you really don't want to break it - they're also different sizes and some sort of inline piece is useful (eg for washer jet tubing).

Hi ive just stripped the egr valve,full of black sludge and changed the fuel filter,new air filter and new clutch slave cylinder and she is running sweet as a nut.

Good to hear seboni
I Bought a MAf from the link Davren kindly put up. had a message today to say that all his stock got water damaged over the weekend so alas i,m back to square 1!!
seboni was car smoking real bad, I,m wondering if it is worth cleaning mine.


kind regards

Kev Walker

seriousley I was shocked with the sludge in the EGR valve,so we fitted a new fuel filter as well because this was getting dirty inside ,smoky a little maybe but not really that bad,the reason we stripped the EGR and changed the air filter/fuel and cleaned the maf sensor was the bloody concenrtic clutch slave inside the gearbox so as everything was off the car battery and stuff we thought we would change the lot and the EGR was choking on the sludge clean it serious so over the next week or so I will be able to feel the difference just the wishbone near side to change and she will be fine

Hi all,
Well the saga continues!
I took the stainless steel pipe off that connects the egr to the manifold and had a look it inside all seemed well, a little soot but no sludge or any sign of a blockage. So i took the map off and that was very sludged up so gave it a thorough cleaning out with electrical cleaner and dried off . I,m still convinced it is the maf sensor though. One question i do have is when things get cleaned will the ecu notice any change from the sensors ie will it adjust its parameters? Should i disconnect the battery for an hour?
If anyone has a maf kicking around that is ok do you want to sell it as i cannot afford the £90 odd pounds the bosch ones are going for.
I could put a pattern one in only could this give me more problems?
I look forward to your thoughts/views.
Cheers for now


Kev Walker

Edited to add a screen grab from the "yani" ecu scanner