Technical Front Wheel Camber

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Technical Front Wheel Camber

I'll have to disagree with you on this in my case. The rear tyres wear normally & after a comprehensive check on the front & rear components to eliminate wear or damage,tyre pressures, rotating tyres, decided to try the bolts.

I had previously had a 4 wheel laser alignment from a highly recommended garage

http://www.thistlethwaitestyres.co.uk/align.htm

Which was useful but the problem persisted.

For around £40 for the bolts, seems cheaper than 2 tyres every 6 months.
The proof is always in the eating and if after a reasonable period the wear issue really is resolved then I'll happily eat my words :)

You seem to be saying that toe-in is as standard spec but I'm a little uncertain of exactly what you've set the camber to (and why you chose that figure) :chin:

I'm a little surprised you don't suffer outer edge wear on the rear tyres too as this is quite common for cars which use a rear torsion beam (if driven enthusiastically ;) )
 
I spoke to the Fiat main dealer and they said that they set the alignment at zero! I chose that camber setting initially to offset the extreme inner wear but appears to have cured it first time. Using an old set of champion wheel irons I set the alignment to -1.
 
Would be very interested if you had a 4 wheel alignment check done on the car as it is now (bit surprised you weren't given the results) as the figures would then be very precise.

Once posted then other members could then use the figures if your setup proves successful over the longterm (y)
 
Would be very interested if you had a 4 wheel alignment check done on the car as it is now (bit surprised you weren't given the results) as the figures would then be very precise.

Once posted then other members could then use the figures if your setup proves successful over the longterm (y)

Yeah, I'm very interested in this issue - both my JTD's have eaten the inner edges of the front tyres at an appalling rate. :(

The last one used to have steel wires hanging out on the inner 30mm, with 4 or 5mm of tread left on the rest of the tread. The new one doesn't look any more encouraging - the same pattern of grossly eccentric wear.

Stilomeister, would you mind letting me have the part number & cost (by PM if you prefer), and I'll try these camber bolts too.

Cheers all -
 
For any member who lives in or close to London then see my link above as that company can supply/fit the bolts and set your suspension up for you :)
 
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Yeah, I'm very interested in this issue - both my JTD's have eaten the inner edges of the front tyres at an appalling rate. :(

The last one used to have steel wires hanging out on the inner 30mm, with 4 or 5mm of tread left on the rest of the tread. The new one doesn't look any more encouraging - the same pattern of grossly eccentric wear.
That wear rate sounds extreme and I seriously cannot believe changing just the camber is going make much if any difference.

Have you already had a precise 4 wheel alignment check done?

Got the results?
 
That wear rate sounds extreme and I seriously cannot believe changing just the camber is going make much if any difference.

Have you already had a precise 4 wheel alignment check done?

Hi Argo -

No, I haven't tried a 4 wheel laser-assisted alignment. I'll get one done, it'll at least provide a baseline for any camber adjustment later.
 
Remember the adjustment on top of the shock absorber when fiddling with these bolts. The top mount / bearing has camber adjustment that most likely should be altered at the same time.

Which means removal of the drop link nut. :yuck:

Morten.
 
Remember the adjustment on top of the shock absorber when fiddling with these bolts. The top mount / bearing has camber adjustment that most likely should be altered at the same time. /QUOTE]

Thanks Mort - That would involve disassembling the shock absorber and turning the wedged rubber do-nut at the top, presumably? Probably quite hard to repeatedly tweak this until a balanced setting is obtained, but perhaps the pro wheel alignment centres could get it right first time from their laser magic...?
 
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I'd think so. There are numbers if I remember correctly at the top, which might refer to a positive or negative angle. You'll see when the shock is out of the arch. Here is a link from the Eibach project.

https://www.fiatforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27306&d=1177503732

Didn't think of photographing the top assembly itself. But the whole black top mount is turnable on the bearing inside.

I have no idea how relevant this is, but it is worth to take into consideration - at least check it out. If a professional would comment it, it would be great.


Morten.
 
Camber on the stilo is in a fixed position and is none adjustable the bearing under the rubber top mounts and the joint at the bottom of the hub is how the we steer the car and top rubber mount is little more that a carrier for the bearing ..I have found this article for you members to have a look at and I hope this will help you understand how a McPherson strut works as I somtimes I find it hard to put this in laymans terms for you all so that you can understand..

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=525
 
Camber on the stilo is in a fixed position and is none adjustable the bearing under the rubber top mounts and the joint at the bottom of the hub is how the we steer the car and top rubber mount is little more that a carrier for the bearing ..I have found this article for you members to have a look at and I hope this will help you understand how a McPherson strut works as I somtimes I find it hard to put this in laymans terms for you all so that you can understand..

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=525

Thanks PNL - Although I have a reasonable DIY grasp of the technology, I found that article far from straightforward. For example - "in a MacPherson Strut type suspension design, the strut itself is the load bearing member, with the springs and shocks merely performing their respective duties instead of also holding up the car". If neither the spring nor the shock absorber is 'holding up the car' then there must be a third magical force at work...

Returning to the theme of excessive tyre wear, if there's no OEM provision for adjustment of camber then the eccentric bolts seem to be the best option (assuming that an alignment check doesn't reveal major tracking or toe-in errors).

Cheers all
 
Returning to the theme of excessive tyre wear, if there's no OEM provision for adjustment of camber then the eccentric bolts seem to be the best option (assuming that an alignment check doesn't reveal major tracking or toe-in errors).

Cheers all

I totally agree to that and I feel its the best option for the car that has this trait ..of course if your car doesnt do it then there isnt any need to go to these extreems but it good to be able to fall back on and item like this if its needed ..and to be honest it wouldnt have hurt fiat if they had designed the suspension with this included ..the only reason they dont is it costs them money ..
 
Please can you tell me if the Camber of right wheel is too wrong (-1.70 ) ? The Camber to left wheel is -0.10, which is better for handling?

My setup is

Abarth Steering rack (2.3turns)
Eibach Pro kit 30mm lowering
KW Shock absorbers

I changed the standard steering rack (1.2 16v with 3.0 turns) with the Abarth steering rack (2.3 turns) so the Toe was completely wrong.

Also Toe specs is from +0.0mm to -1.0mm mine is -0.7mm onboth sides,is it better for handling to be close to -1.0mm?



EWt92n9.jpg
 
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What is the impact of negative toe with handling?

Zero toe minimize wear but handling?

The alignment software shows that toe is in specs -0.7mm (-1.0mm to +0.00)

Also the 4 Wheel Alignment shows that rear right wheel has +2.3mm toe and -1.4 degrees Camber.Is it possible that the cause is a rear bush failure or wheel bearing?

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