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HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS
Deckchair5
03-03-2007
<font face="Arial"><font size="3">HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS</font></font><br />
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<font face="Arial"><font size="3">Well first of all you, do you need to change them? What’s the symptoms?</font></font><br />
<font face="Arial"><font size="3">A kind of
Old 29-06-2008   #15
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

just did both of mine took me about an hour, you are right in saying that the bottom nut is a bitch to get off though. saved 50 quid doing it myself though.
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Old 17-04-2009   #16
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Bloody hell. Thought I was going insane over these drop links. The top bolts were easy, as I had them removed (and refit with copper grease) a couple of years ago when mounting the Eibach dampers.

But the lower nut was pretty impossible. The hex hole turned round, so no help there. Maybe the Hulk could have the power to keep the joint from turning, regarding plan B, but surely I didn't.

Sat there watching the set-up and then plan C was developed. It was not enough room for the anglegrinder, but a hacksaw solved it. First the blade was removed, the frame put over the axle, blade replaced, and the sawing could begin. Just saw between the nut and it's shim, until you get through the bolt. Bend it outwards, and "pop" here comes the drop link.

Remember to use the removed tire as a pillow to rest your head while lying on the asphalt. Or your neck muscles are destroyed the next day and the day after - and that's not a joke.

Morten.
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Old 28-05-2009   #17
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Thanks for this guide - very helpful.

Changed my droplinks today, a pattern pair c/w nuts cost £30inc from Shop4Parts (really fast delivery). The upper nuts came away quite easily, the mole-grip tactic worked neatly. The lower nuts were atrocious, so I gave up quickly and sliced them off with an electric sabre-saw.

Remounting the new links wasn't hard - slightly tricky to get the torque into the thread at first but the back of the rose joint featured slim 16mm flats to get it started (eg until the nyloc section was broken-in).

Would've been useful to know the official ft-lb for re-tightening, but I figured that f***ing tight would probably do it - you don't really want any play in a suspension fixing...
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Old 03-08-2009   #18
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Yepp, did these yesterday, again with Shop4Parts (OCAP make) - these don't have the pesky allen key locking, but flats on the back as mentioned above. Came with replacement 17mm nylocs, but you really need some M10 plain washers as well when re-fitting as the "old" ones are actually part original nut.

The nut torque is 5.1 daNm (51 Nm) or about 38 lb/ft in old money.

The right side was well done up on the old ones - using the torque wrench for leverage it went to 120 ft/lbs on the top nut before it freed. The bottom one was just no hope, even with mole grips, so dremelled the nut side off and split with a chisel. Removal of the right side engine tray side was a good move as it sticks out. The left side freed up no probs in comparison and no need to touch the engine tray either as plenty of room.
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Old 21-08-2009   #19
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Just got the drop links and nuts, paid £12.99 for each drop link (genuine fiat) and £2.10 for each nut with integrated washer!!!

Hopefully fitting tomorrow.
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Old 18-10-2009   #20
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Huh..may be for new one is possible for 30 min.. to it cost ... many times on 30 min. The bolts was rusty, the hexagonal hole just screw up ...and finally only flex cyrcle manage the problem. On the new ones which by the way was with key place on the bolt i put silicon to cover the tap,and the nex time it will be piece of cake
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Old 25-03-2010   #21
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Congratulations, very good guide.
Maybe you should explain a bit more the symptoms but basically consists on knocks like you said, over speed bumps or bumpy roads, but it can get worse because of the plastic consistency on the spherical end. Sometimes it's hard to feel it playing with your hand, the structure could be under pressure by the torsion bar. On my stilo I've noted that on turns over bumpy roads the knocks stopped but then again on straight lines massive loud knocks. If you can, take the tire out grab the drop link firmly and push/pull vertically, if you fell the minimal play like a tick you probably need new droplinks. Don't forget that the sound of a minimal tick over pressure makes resonance trough the body and amplifies the sound.
The parts are quite cheap, i bought mine from SWAG, german parts, about 25€ the two droplinks

Keep up the excellent work.
Great forum, great posters, great guides.
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Old 27-12-2010   #22
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

So glad to get it fixed, simply took it to a garage, £23 each side and got to sit and enjoy a nice cup of tea and read the paper. Best to shop around though to get a good price.
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Old 17-01-2011   #23
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Yep £15 each £35 to have fitted. no bad back or scraped hands. Main dealer double that. And its just my opinion but they are not better parts or mechanics they just have a badge and do their best to protect their software!
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Old 13-07-2011   #24
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

[QUOTE=Deckchair5;1038038]HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Well first of all you, do you need to change them? What’s the symptoms?
A kind of irritating rattle over rough surfaces but no noise at all on smooth surfaces. Always there but doesn’t seem to get worse


NB A track rod end (or tie rod end) is a very similar noise but that’s felt much more through the steering, is much louder, gets progressively worse and can give you torque steering (altering course on power off/on) even on smaller engines.

I have knocking, also have the torque steer, but I can not find any play at all in any of the joints.
I have ordered a pair of drop links, but after reading this wonder whether to put them on?
I suppose the track rod end may have bent???
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Old 28-03-2012   #25
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

I found changing these really easy! But I didn't have nuts rounding off.

In order to secure the allen bolt while turning the nut I just stuck a 5mm key in the end and let it rest on the lower spring cup (For the top nut) and the wishbone arm (for the bottom nut). After the initial 'break' of the rust/seal the nut came off very easily.

Sorry for incorrect picture rotation...

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Old 13-06-2012   #26
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Changed mine today. Took about 2 hours, but sadly rattle still there! Checked again and tightened a tiny bit (muscles popping), still rattling.

So guess I have worn bottom joins, dammit! Strangely I get no torque steer, car doesnt wander, and no play that I can feel in joints.

Ah poo!
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Old 13-06-2012   #27
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Scratch that, turned out the noise was my offside calliper, which is now fixed and no rattles.
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Old 09-08-2012   #28
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Thanks for the guide did mine today along with nearside wishbone which is just as well as the drop link on that side decided it was staying but with wishbone out to be replaced with new one managed to get the angle grinder in and whip through the stud and nut before fitting new drop link then bew wishbone..drivers side came off no problem after tapping the hex bit into end but yes limited space and no way of getting grinder in....with pennies tight could only aford some cheap ebay ones this time but noted like others that the new one's came with nuts and had spanner slots on rubber gaitor side and went for 5/8th imperial spanner size which did fit nicely and which made fitting a breeze and depending how long they last lashed with copper slip and hope will make changing again much less painfull although how to get the right torque on the bottom was a right guess of ring spannering pretty tight correct torque is roughly 36 ft lb..but when inspecting what was left of old removed ones noticed how much slack and knocking I could I achieve with them just by wriggling them in my hands..just have to take a spin and hope is a clatter free drive.
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Old 23-02-2013   #29
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Re: HOW TO CHANGE YOUR DROP LINKS (OR ANTI ROLL BAR LINKS) IN 30MINS

Can anyone please tell me the spec of the securing nuts or where I can get them? My panda's drop links have developed a lot of play. Are they specific to this part of the vehicle? There seems to be a big disparity in the price of the parts so I was thinking of buying the OE quality aftermarket parts then asking a mechanic to fit them.
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