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Technical Qubo oil change

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Technical Qubo oil change

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Gene26

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Hi,

Has anyone carried out a service themselves on a 1.4l (2009) Qubo Active? Mine is due an oil change, and probably air filter, plugs, act soon. I want to do it myself as the car is out of warranty. I've done this myself a few times with other cars, most recently an Alfa GTV twinspark. I'm guessing the Qubo won't be any more difficult than that?

Any advice anyone would have would be welcome. (y)

Cheers
 
Normally your owner's manual will give you an idea of what needs to be done at each service interval. You didn't mention your mileage so it's a bit hard to say exactly what needs doing at this point.
 
Thanks for the replys. I didn't think you could get a haynes type manual for the qubo, although most cars are pretty similar when it comes to changing oil, ect. Just want to give it a basic yearly service.

I believe the 1.4l petrol is Citroen sourced rather than Fiat, so maybe a 206/C1 haynes manual would be ok for the engine?
 
To update - did oil/filter and air filter change today. Very straightforward job, no problems encountered. I would recommend it for anyone wanting to do an interim service between the 20k intervals.
 
Good gen, thanks for that. I'm not convinced the 20k oil life is the best policy either.

Another idea I picked up was sticking 'neodymium' magnets onto the outside of the filter housing - theory says most particles in the oil are ferrous and some will be too small to be filtered, they will of course still be attracted to the magnets. Come filter change time simply remove the magnets and stick onto the new filter. Can't do any harm for the sake of a few quid.:)
 
mario99uk said:
Good gen, thanks for that. I'm not convinced the 20k oil life is the best policy either.

Another idea I picked up was sticking 'neodymium' magnets onto the outside of the filter housing - theory says most particles in the oil are ferrous and some will be too small to be filtered, they will of course still be attracted to the magnets. Come filter change time simply remove the magnets and stick onto the new filter. Can't do any harm for the sake of a few quid.:)
Click to expand...

The only problem with that would be that the petrol qubo has a cannister filter. I think the housing was made of plastic.
 
Have seen recommendation for 8 k oil changes due to chain tensioner problems.
 
Changed my oil and filter today, 3.2 litres as per handbook.
Old oil was pitch black..

I'm gonna do every year / 12000 miles from now on..
 
Choosing correct oil is also critical, especially on MJTD.
To avoid paying over £400 for the second year dealer service, I used the IAM (advanced driver) scheme which is franchised to local garages. It costs £180 (less a £20 member discount) for the main B service and is guaranteed to maintain warranty.
I had a number of problems with this which I'll describe in another thread, but engine oil was one of the main ones. After the car was serviced at 15500 miles, I noticed serious exhaust smoke when accelerating hard. I wondered what oil they had used so phoned to ask what I should use as a top-up. "Any 5W-30 semi-synthetic is ok" I was told. :eek:
I wanted nothing more to do with this outfit and as 3rd year dealer warranty was probably now void, I decided to change the oil myself ASAP. Recommended Selenia 5W-30 I could buy for around £50 for 4 litres but settled on Triple QX ACEA C2 low SAPS at £28.50 for 5 litres (so 2 cans does 3 oil changes at 3.2 litres each).
Result is no more exhaust smoke and satisfaction that I know the job is done properly!
 
I agree, don't ever assume that the dealer (or local garage) is always correct. In my student days I had a Citroen 2CV; I purchased it from a Citroen dealer and it needed some work doing on the brakes before collection. A few weeks later when my brakes failed I found they had used LHM brake fluid instead of the ordinary stuff which led to the seals in my master cylinder and front drums failing at the same time! Just to be safe I have changed my oil using the same stuff as Quboffin from euro car parts.
 
Quboffin said:
Choosing correct oil is also critical, especially on MJTD.
To avoid paying over £400 for the second year dealer service, I used the IAM (advanced driver) scheme which is franchised to local garages. It costs £180 (less a £20 member discount) for the main B service and is guaranteed to maintain warranty.
I had a number of problems with this which I'll describe in another thread, but engine oil was one of the main ones. After the car was serviced at 15500 miles, I noticed serious exhaust smoke when accelerating hard. I wondered what oil they had used so phoned to ask what I should use as a top-up. "Any 5W-30 semi-synthetic is ok" I was told. :eek:
I wanted nothing more to do with this outfit and as 3rd year dealer warranty was probably now void, I decided to change the oil myself ASAP. Recommended Selenia 5W-30 I could buy for around £50 for 4 litres but settled on Triple QX ACEA C2 low SAPS at £28.50 for 5 litres (so 2 cans does 3 oil changes at 3.2 litres each).
Result is no more exhaust smoke and satisfaction that I know the job is done properly!
Click to expand...

Hi Quboffin,
'Over £400 for the second service'.........wow ! who you using fella......

My Qubo has recently had its second service, 4 years old, 19000 mile, MJD, at my Main Dealer.......full service, inc oil/oil filter/air filter/fuel filter/pollen filter/brake fluid change, and all the rest....handbrake ajusted, pads/disc....rear shoes all checked for wear, anti-freeze check.....and more.

All in price, inc parts/labour & the dreaded v.a.t, came in at a few pence over £209.

Cheers Qube O.:):):)
 
It's worth a trip up the Toll Road for that Qube O! My first year service at 7000 miles cost £181 for Selenia oil, oil and air filters only, plus checks. When I questioned the cost of second year service in Feb this year (>£400) the young lady on service desk said they could do the A service again as I'd only covered 15000 miles. I asked about changing pollen filter, she looked on their records and said it was done last year. I said no, air filter was changed. She said "they're the same thing"! Honestly!
Main problem is MD is multi-franchise - KIA, Renault, Citroen and Fiat (in that order!). When I enquire about parts - eg black decal behind side door on previous thread, I'm told "can you bring it so we can have a look, I'm not familiar with the Qubo". Doesn't inspire confidence does it?
 
I know what your saying.........I'm lucky to have a really good Main Dealer, with friendly knowledgeable 'fellas' on the service desk.......no offence meant to the ladies.

They know what it is your talking about...........and are happy to work with you. Take good care of my Qubo at a reasonable cost, and nothing to much trouble.

Cheers Qube O...
 
mikbak said:
Changed my oil and filter today, 3.2 litres as per handbook.
Old oil was pitch black..

I'm gonna do every year / 12000 miles from now on..
Click to expand...

I bought a new sump plug "just in case" (Fiat part 46823509) which cost about £10 inc P&P but then found lots of cheaper alternatives on eBay once I'd got the dimensions which are M14 x 10mm thread length with a torx T45. Also 16mm ID x 2.5mm O rings around £2 for 20 to fit the plug and worth replacing each oil change. (y)
 
Thanks for that, I eventually got mine out using Mole Grips.
 
Last edited:
Quboffin said:
I bought a new sump plug "just in case" (Fiat part 46823509) which cost about £10 inc P&P but then found lots of cheaper alternatives on eBay once I'd got the dimensions which are M14 x 10mm thread length with a torx T45. Also 16mm ID x 2.5mm O rings around £2 for 20 to fit the plug and worth replacing each oil change. (y)
Click to expand...
I'm sure they do this just to put people off carrying out their own maintenance. Is there really any need to have a torx socket on a sump plug?
 
Most Easterly Pandas said:
Why not? Loads of manufactures do it, I've never had an issue with it.
Click to expand...
There is no issue as long as you have a set of torx sockets! My 2007 Toyota Avensis has a 14mm hex head as do most fords; can you think of any good reason why it needs to have a torx head apart from to dissuade the home mechanic?
 
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