Asking this once again, so I don't need to remove camshaft and everything once again. Is it possible to get camshaft 180 degrees off if all timing marks are correctly aligned. Now i'm wondering if camshaft end that goes on camshaft sprocket has only one dot on it so it can fit only one way, or line accross whole camshaft end so it can be fitted 2 ways (180 degrees on/off).

You are correct , if cam pulley only has one timing mark it cannot be 180 degrees out.

It is possible to accidentally connect swap the low voltage wire to coils.

To be totally sure of cam timing , set flywheel to 0degrees and cam pulley marks aligned,
remove cam cover,
the inlet valve ,
exhaust valve of cylinder 4 should be equally open(cam lobes pushing down)
Cam lobes for cylinder 1 should be pointing up.
Please post pictures.
Is your car 1injector or 4 injector?

Don't worry.

Even if cam shaft timing not correct with your engine you would not have to remove everything to correct it

You are doing a good job.

Here is the picture of camshaft when marks are aligned.

I didn't touch low voltage connectors, so we can rule them out.
It's 4 injector system.

The picture is great .
I am pleased to report cam timing is correct.

Did you leave the low voltage connectors attached to coils and HT leads attached to coils when you did the engine build?
Did you label which coil was which?
Did you label the HT leads with the plug numbers ?

Did you add extra fuel?

Is there just one fuel line from tank to injectors?

Sorry for all the questions.

We will get it started.

I left low voltage connectors on, HT leads were off, but i'm sure I put them back in correct order. 1-2-3-4 (from timing belt to flywheel) to 1-3-4-2 (from cabin to radiator). Tested compression, all good.
It has 2 lines, one for supply, other is returning line.
I didn't add extra fuel yet. Car is still on stands on one side, so maybe it's even harder for fuel pump to supply fuel to the system. And yeah, I think it was fuel return line, when I first tried to crank the engine I realized it's cracked, was spraying fuel all over, replaced it.
I think to do this test tomorrow. Disconnect fuel rail with injectors on and run injector test via IAW scan program, to see if engine is getting fuel.
I really appreciate your help, mate.

You could try pouring an egg cup of fuel into the inlet and trying to start, if engine runs properly for a short while then you will know you have a fuel problem.

Will do that test tomorrow, if that fails will test injectors. Temperature gauge was jumping cause oil stick was touching its metal connector.

Good work finding cause of temp gauge jumping.

I'm sure there are a lot of people wishing you luck on this forum.

Fire popping out of throttle body and small explosions when pushing down throttle pedal should be something to worry about?

What you describe are classic signs of plugs sparking at wrong moment in cycle , as if coils wired wrong.
You don't want to try changing leads to rule it out.
The worst that could happen is it wouldn't work .
You could then put connectors back and look for another problem.
The choice is yours.

Not intentionally​ sounding grumpy . I know how frustrating things like this can be because of similar experiences.
Rule out what could be causing issues and move on to next thing to rule out.

Small pops and flashes of flame mean you have some fuel and sparks.
I can only think the way that fuel is igniting in the inlet manifold is if an inlet valve is still open when it's spark plug sparks.

One check you can do is set flywheel to 0
degrees , remove spark plug 1 or 4 make sure the piston is at top of bore.
I am sure it will be , just check and move on.

Just had a thought.
Where did the crank sensor pick up signal from?
Flywheel ? or toothed wheel bolted to crankshaft?

I had a lot of bugs on this rebuild journey, not a single thing went smoothly, but I keep rolling, I somehow enjoy it, especially when debugging moment happens.
Will pay attention at HT leads and connectors tomorrow as well. Maybe some of the sensors is the issue? If so, I could try to check them with multimeter.
It's picking signal from toothed wheel.
Once again thanks for help.
He'll be rolling soon.