Anybody know where I can get 2 new keys to replace my worn ones, not remote locking. None at my local locksmiths, says they went out years ago! 2000 Cabrio BTW. Can't see any on ebay.

Most of the fiat keys (if not all) have the same profile key - the one you buy doesn't necessarily need to be the same shape handle - the metal bit just needs to be the same. Should be plenty on fleabay that would suffice unless you really want it to be the same shape key...?

what does your key look like? Seen few different for the mk1s

digger58 said:

Anybody know where I can get 2 new keys to replace my worn ones, not remote locking.

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still chipped though..??

one of the forum key people could obviously POST a new key.. but that's only half the job..

Here is the BEST one!!!! Can't these be programmed using the procedure with the "Master" key as posted elsewhere on this forum?

digger58 said:

Here is the BEST one!!!! Can't these be programmed using the procedure with the "Master" key as posted elsewhere on this forum?

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maybe.. I'm sure minirib would know.

digger58 said:

Here is the BEST one!!!! Can't these be programmed using the procedure with the "Master" key as posted elsewhere on this forum?

Click to expand...

maybe.. I'm sure minirib would know.

are these SOLID mouldings..or can you just replace the "blade"

They are solid, I wonder about the chip?, I have read about drilling a hole for it and filling afterwards.

If you have the brown master key then you can program more keys no problem.
Not sure if Fiat still have these available but aftermarket versions are available.
For blanks any key cutters can order them for you Silca reference for the blank is GT15r. If your programming with the master key then you need the oem transponders for the keys which are Megamos id13.
If your getting keys to replace the worn ones then there is no point getting copies made from those as you will have the same problem. So ideally you want them cut by code to original spec. If you haven't got your key code not a problem it can easily be worked out from a picture of your key.
The cutting code for the keys above (which I assume aren't yours as they don't look that worn) is W001893 or the direct cuts are 321311133.

Many thanks for the great info, yes those are my keys, The wear I refer to is on the plastic handles, both are bad, this is the best one. I'll ask my local locksmith again. This is what is great about the forum, clear good advice. Thanks again

in a similar situation to yourself (think mine is worse tho!) and was looking to get a new key for my '96 Mk1, not sure if you have them over the pond but Timpsons checked my key in their machine and said they could do a new coded key for £40 (no master key needed) that would start the car and all that, wouldn't touch the blank I brought in but their new key looked exactly like it (key on the right)

yeah red master keys are really not even needed these days, just a nice thing to have as part of your history - immobilsers were not as advanced back then.. you should be able to take any mk1 fiat key, whether its from a car with the old code system and a red master or the later code2 system and they can just cut it and clone the transponder... If they say they can't just go to another place is my advice tbh. Not really needed the red key for many years to get a new key made, but the rumour lives on.

Does this post apply then?


Also make sure your locksmith is well aware you want coded keys my car has had a regular key cut for it for some reason

the keys he can give you are most likely kurtis key if they don’t program first time they won’t but if they do they shouldn’t give any trouble mine has one and it seems to work fine

they should look similar to your original blue keys and have a red resin in the back were the chip was put in if they are black or look dodgy make sure he has the right ones

remember to program
red key turn ignition on until light goes out and of again
first blue key turn ignition on until light goes out and of again
second blue key turn ignition on until light goes out and of again
then red key turn ignition on until light goes out and of again
then wait between 4 and 9 seconds turn the red key on again and
the light should stay on instead of going out this means it has accepted the programing if it goes out at this point keep turning it on and of until it stays on
then turn it off and wait 15 seconds and try the blue keys

if you have one of your original blue key you can use one of these as well as a new one to make it work less the key is gused as sometimes the code ecu forgets the key numbers (this is normally caused by someone messing around with their perfectly functional keys for unknown reasons lol)

not something i have ever done, but sounds like the procedure to code a 'virgin' key.. I've not had to get a new key for a fiat before but from what people have said to me you shouldnt have to code it like that - they should be able to use your existing blue key with their equipment and it'll read and then code the transponder in the new key so its the same as the existing one.. More modern cars seem to have some process which reads, and then changes and when you turn the car off so cloning keys in this way doesn't work anymore but thats not how our keys work they are too old for that, literally should just copy the transponder and cut the key and job done. Just make sure they agree to refund if it doesn't work is my only advice really.

Hi there,new member here and I need your help to understand my car immobilizer!
Just bought a mk1 punto elx 75 and the previous owner gave me only one blue key (and without transponder inside the key fob- what a trick!!!) and used the red key the last 2-3 years from what they told me afterwards.. So I ordered 2 megamos ID 13 with the intention to use the old blue and make one copy more if the code box still working after this abuse.From what I understand in the code 1 system the new keys "educated" or "adopted" with the ignition switch procedure. The virgin transponder don't need "writing" - "tuning" before use,am I wrong?This happens with the coil-antenna in switch, right? I followed the usefull sticky guide step by step and only the first time managed to finish the procedure (with one mistake- I waited only 15 sec before trying the "new" keys after the end and not 1 minute) and the blues didn't work.After the first try the sequense stopped every time in the second blue because the code light didn't come off.Probably I messed up..I need new "virgin" transponders to try again? Are these ID13 writables (inside the car and/or otherwise)?

These transponders are fixed code they can be used over and over again. You must program all three keys the master and two blue slave keys.
Are the transponders you have definitely the correct ones?

Hello Minirib and thank's! I bought the "glassy" megamos ID 13 - T5 transponders (like my red key has- I don't have 5 post's so the page of product is not added) in "virgin" condition. I thought that I can "write" new codes in these "blank" at my car ignition switch with the red master key and untill now I don't know if I this is how the thing works (and just my code box is problematic) or I need 2 already "encoded" transponders to "educate" the ecu to adopt..Everywhere I read that with the red key you can create 2 new slaves (max 8) but they don't tell if the keys transponders need to be "virgin" or already encoded.When you say program all three keys you mean change the code of the red one also?

Sorry i didn't put that very well you need the master key to initiate the programming mode then you need to have two blue slave keys to program.
The chips need to be Megamos id13 chips, If you have T5 chips (they are available as glass chips that look identical) they wont work for programming with the master key as they are blank emulators, that are used for cloning with a separate device.

Thanks again Minirib!Probably I have the blank emulators and because I read that the continuous use of red master key will damage the code box eventually, I am thinking to copy 2 chip from another code 1 punto and try to make them the 2 new slaves in my vehicle..Of course my last resort is to clone the red one and waiting for the failure : )
Just from curiosity: This chips (id 13) are writable only once (the first time) or rewritable?

The id13 chips can't be written to at all the code is fixed from the factory it never changes. When you program them to the car the code from the chip is written to the immobiliser ecu in the car nothing changes in the chip.
If you want i have plenty of id13 chips lurking up in the loft. If you pm me your address I could send you a couple.

I don't have words to thank you mate!I'll send you pm,but before that I'll visit a locksmith to check my transponders to ensure that these are the coulprit and not my code-box so to not bother you without reason..