Failed MOT on my 250,000 mile Mk1 because of split steering rack gaiters. I was surprised that the manual and web advice is that track rod ends need to be removed to replace the gaiters. This is not the case the the track rods can unbolt as the inner end has a ball joint to enable tracking adjustment so thought I would post how I did this.Obviously if the track rod ends have any play or the rubber is split or perished then they need to be replaced anyway and you can follow the instructions in the workshap manual(s):
Takes less then an hour to do; will need pliers, wire cutters or snips to cut plastic cable ties, stanley knife or similar, spanner for locknut 20mm on mine, mole or footprint wrench or stilson, small amount grease, Tip-ex, and safety glasses unless you wear specs. New gaiters and cable ties (I got a universal kit for £9 from local factors); pit or comfortable mat to lie on, small hands.....
No need to remove wheels or track rod ends; jack up and prop leaving room for wheels to move from lock to lock; do driver's side first as access easier and will give you experience.
Turn wheels to full right hand lock; clean rust off track rod (I used a stainless steel kitchen scourer) and mark position of locknut on track rod with Tip-ex.
Loosen locknut using mole wrench or similar to prevent track rod from turning; do not use the track rod end ball joint as a fulcrum to prevent turning as you may damage the ball joint and then you WILL have to replace it.
Use the stanley knife or wire cutters to cut the outer plastic tie and cut right through the gaiter so the track rod can turn and then using the mole unscrew the track rod from the track rod end.
Cut the the tie on the inboard end of the gaiter and pull the gaiter off and clear away any bits of gaiter or plastic.
If the rack looks dry put some grease on it but may not be necessary, avoid getting grease on the outside of the gaiter; put a little grease on the ridge on the track rod where the outer end of the gaiter fits.
Push the gaiter over the track rod ensuring the outer end passes over the little ridge and snugs down in the groove.
Do not put the outer tie on yet; screw the track rod back into the track rod end using the mole (put some grease on the threads) turning the steering as necessary ensuring the locknut ends up aligned with the Tip-ex mark when tightened. Fit outer cable tie and trim it.
Turn wheel to left full lock and the inner end of the gaiter should slide on OK. I found it easier to attach 2 ties together the get them round the gaiter and then tightened and trimmed them.
The passenger side is less easy because of access but still possible.
My locknuts undid easily because I put copper grease on the threads when changing the track rod ends a couple of years ago but otherwise they can be a challenge....
GOOD LUCK!
Takes less then an hour to do; will need pliers, wire cutters or snips to cut plastic cable ties, stanley knife or similar, spanner for locknut 20mm on mine, mole or footprint wrench or stilson, small amount grease, Tip-ex, and safety glasses unless you wear specs. New gaiters and cable ties (I got a universal kit for £9 from local factors); pit or comfortable mat to lie on, small hands.....
No need to remove wheels or track rod ends; jack up and prop leaving room for wheels to move from lock to lock; do driver's side first as access easier and will give you experience.
Turn wheels to full right hand lock; clean rust off track rod (I used a stainless steel kitchen scourer) and mark position of locknut on track rod with Tip-ex.
Loosen locknut using mole wrench or similar to prevent track rod from turning; do not use the track rod end ball joint as a fulcrum to prevent turning as you may damage the ball joint and then you WILL have to replace it.
Use the stanley knife or wire cutters to cut the outer plastic tie and cut right through the gaiter so the track rod can turn and then using the mole unscrew the track rod from the track rod end.
Cut the the tie on the inboard end of the gaiter and pull the gaiter off and clear away any bits of gaiter or plastic.
If the rack looks dry put some grease on it but may not be necessary, avoid getting grease on the outside of the gaiter; put a little grease on the ridge on the track rod where the outer end of the gaiter fits.
Push the gaiter over the track rod ensuring the outer end passes over the little ridge and snugs down in the groove.
Do not put the outer tie on yet; screw the track rod back into the track rod end using the mole (put some grease on the threads) turning the steering as necessary ensuring the locknut ends up aligned with the Tip-ex mark when tightened. Fit outer cable tie and trim it.
Turn wheel to left full lock and the inner end of the gaiter should slide on OK. I found it easier to attach 2 ties together the get them round the gaiter and then tightened and trimmed them.
The passenger side is less easy because of access but still possible.
My locknuts undid easily because I put copper grease on the threads when changing the track rod ends a couple of years ago but otherwise they can be a challenge....
GOOD LUCK!
