lolollo so thats why it wasnt starting

well that would do it lol... luckily for you its a non-interference engine so time it up and stick a new belt (get a tensioner too) and jobs a good'un.

depending on history of the car (or lack thereof) consider changing the water pump while the belts are off.

do you perhaps know how old belt is?

portland_bill said:

...If timing belt has jumped, we need to diagnose why. If it was overdue for replacement, or not tensioned properly, either could cause it. If they're ok, could be a seizing camshaft. Plenty of oil and changed regularly?

Click to expand...

flisko said:

camshaft will seize first if not enough oil?

Click to expand...

Not necessarily. Camshaft is further from the oil pump so can be starved first. Also, smaller oilways near top, and if oil not changed regularly, cam will suffer gumming up before crank. I've seen cam seizures a few times where crank is fine and reusable without work.

Tommygunn said:

"There's ya problem!"
Timing belt has stripped fifteen teeth.

Click to expand...

That's the result, not necessarily the cause.
Why did it strip teeth?
From the pic, it does not look like the rest of the teeth look distressed, so suggesting not an old worn belt. That points more at a tight camshaft.
Lift the lid off and check the camshaft rotates easily. Quick and easy to do, nothing to lose. Will also show that all else is well in there.
Cambelt teeth can also strip if it collects debris, like a plastic bag off the road. Any evidence of foreign matter?
Check water pump too. Cheap and easy to replace (although you may need to fight the original sealant). A seized pump will strip the teeth.
If you can't find any reason for the failure, change belt, pump, coolant and oil.

Your going to love this.
The car was a freebie from my wifes' relatives so I don't think it has really been thrashed or anything. Anyway, I found a sticker on the side of the belt cover for when the belt was changed. It says: 62,000Km on the 20/8/03. The clock now says 146,089Km!
I changed the oil and filter on the 16/11/13 when it said 141,525Km.

Having trouble telling if there is free movement of the camshaft as I can't really tell the difference between valve resistance and bearing resistance. For the little amount of give there is between valve contact it seems ok.

Tom.

well sounds like the typical fiat issue this does... cars not been thrashed or abused as such but not maintained - Its pretty standard issue for me to change all belts and fluids and filters etc on any car i buy for this kind of reason. I would suspect its never had a waterpump so i would change it - not like its expensive part for this engine. And make sure you get a timing belt kit (with tensioner) and not just a belt.

Tommygunn said:

Your going to love this.
The car was a freebie from my wifes' relatives so I don't think it has really been thrashed or anything. Anyway, I found a sticker on the side of the belt cover for when the belt was changed. It says: 62,000Km on the 20/8/03. The clock now says 146,089Km!
I changed the oil and filter on the 16/11/13 when it said 141,525Km.

Having trouble telling if there is free movement of the camshaft as I can't really tell the difference between valve resistance and bearing resistance. For the little amount of give there is between valve contact it seems ok.

Tom.

Click to expand...

so timing belts usually last give or take 12 years

we have finally debunked timing belt change interval

think of intervals as sell by dates on food.. Its the safe interval - most belts will last miles longer than the interval but that doesn't mean one should risk not changing them... Particularly when you consider that although FIRE engines are non-interference that is not true of most engines out there.. And imagine the stick a manufacturer would get if they stated 100k or 10 years for a belt only for the belts to regularly start failing prior to said interval.

Also the worst you could do to a belt in the interval period is prob to not run the car as rubber parts get hard and brittle hence why its not really best to buy a really low miler over a normal mileage car with proven history, the higher mileage car will prob be in better condition mechanically.

is there maybe some production timestamp on belt itself?
i wonder how old mine is

would prob not be readable after 5 years even if they did.. My general rule is if i don't know and it doesn't look really new then i change it - particularly on a FIRE as its so easy.

Tommygunn said:

Your going to love this.
The car was a freebie from my wifes' relatives so I don't think it has really been thrashed or anything. Anyway, I found a sticker on the side of the belt cover for when the belt was changed. It says: 62,000Km on the 20/8/03. The clock now says 146,089Km!
I changed the oil and filter on the 16/11/13 when it said 141,525Km.

Having trouble telling if there is free movement of the camshaft as I can't really tell the difference between valve resistance and bearing resistance. For the little amount of give there is between valve contact it seems ok.

Tom.

Click to expand...

Looks like just neglect then.
Oil should be changed annually if mileage does not demand it sooner.

To properly check the camshaft, take the cam cover off and turn the camshaft using the hexagon cast into it. (24mm I think) Set the crank on the timing marks, should I think put all the pistons half way, so no risk.

do all valves get damaged if its interference engine and is not timed properly and you try to start engine?

not definitely all no but you will prob bend a few - even if a some survived it wouldn't really make sense to not replace all of them and all the stem seals etc. I have seen destroyed pistons too but not from just trying to start a car.
I had a cam pulley decide it no longer wanted to be on the camshaft at motorway speed once on a cheapo escort.. When i took the head off (i knew it was totally fubar but was curious) all the valves were open and bent practically flat, had cracked 2 pistons and severely damaged the other 2 - worst sound i ever heard a car make!!! the bent actually stayed intact with the pulley in it and so was whipping round the engine bay smashing everything at the same time as valves punching pistons. It was not a good day lol

quite interesting, loud bang sound?

i would describe it as it sounds like you have force inducted nuts and bolts instead of petrol - more of clattering rattling noise than a bang

Ok gents, thanks for the help so far. My parts have arrived and I'm ready to fit them. However, one question before I do, the belt is directional and I need to know which way the crank and cam rotate when looking at the pulleys - clockwise or anticlockwise?

Cheers,
Tom.

to right clockwise

:yeahthat:

Thanks.

Tom.

I'd probably re-torque the head down as well, and give it a good engine flush with cheap diesel-spec 10W/40 oil and a cheap filter - the extra detergents should shift any residues especially if you give the car a good thrash!

Change the oil + filter again after 500 miles...