ok so must be similar issue in both, but the offside one didnt look rusted. hmm.

Q: Why wont it allow me to upload a small file that is the parts diagram, .jpg ?

sunflower888 said:

Q: Why wont it allow me to upload a small file that is the parts diagram, .jpg ?

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How small? Attachments are limited to 9.77mb which should be plenty, if it's bigger than that you'll need to Upload it to the gallery first, and may need to donate if you're running out of space (donations, no matter how small, give unlimited gallery space).

Eklipze3k said:

How small? Attachments are limited to 9.77mb which should be plenty, if it's bigger than that you'll need to Upload it to the gallery first, and may need to donate if you're running out of space (donations, no matter how small, give unlimited gallery space).

Click to expand...

It's very small, but maybe something to do with the size of the pixels / dimensions.

It's a brilliant diagram direct from Fiat, so I need to find a way to post it as it's really helpful to all.

Re: Please help.....update

Hi All, just to say my car passed the MOT now, all issues resolved.

Just to summarise the issues in case it helps others:

i) The small holes in the rear right wheel arch: were not structural, so no MOT fail. (I will have to look at getting them patched up so the water doesnt get in that area though).

ii) Handbrake: biting point was very high, easily adjusted from within the inside of the car and tightened quite straightforward once you take off the plastic cover, it was just a case of tightening a bolt to a particular level.

iii) Rear light columns, indicator causing the other lights to flicker in time too:
- this was caused by water having got into the unit, causing some rust at the lowest bulb, causing a shorting effect.
- however this didnt resolve the problem fully, we realised that the metal points which you plug into the connecting (white) plug, had some tiny oxidisation on them too. So with a file and some sandpaper, scored them to clean them back to fresh/raw metal, and once plugged in all resolved and fixed.

Thank you all for your help. The car is doing very well. I'm on 98450 miles..... should reach 100,000 in the year.

p.s. not many around in my area now (probably due the rust getting to the older ones), so it's like driving a more unique car. :slayer:

Re: Please help.....update

sunflower888 said:

we realised that the metal points which you plug into the connecting (white) plug, had some tiny oxidisation on them too. So with a file and some sandpaper, scored them to clean them back to fresh/raw metal, and once plugged in all resolved and fixed.

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If you smear the contacts with silicon grease (or even Vaseline) they won't rust again.

Re: Please help.....update

fingers99 said:

If you smear the contacts with silicon grease (or even Vaseline) they won't rust again.

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These didnt have rust, just a tiny bit of white colouring on the metal. Would that work for the connectors in the lights column, using grease?

Re: Please help.....update

sunflower888 said:

These didnt have rust, just a tiny bit of white colouring on the metal.QUOTE]



that's still a form of oxidisation ( corrosion / rust), ; - )
charlie

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Re: Please help.....update

fingers99 said:

If you smear the contacts with silicon grease (or even Vaseline) they won't rust again.

Click to expand...

what about copper grease?

Re: Please help.....update

sunflower888 said:

These didnt have rust, just a tiny bit of white colouring on the metal. Would that work for the connectors in the lights column, using grease?

Click to expand...

Yeah -- silicone grease is best (eBay or a good motor factor) else vaseline is a pretty good second.

Re: Please help.....update

flisko said:

what about copper grease?

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Problem is, it's just very ordinary grease with copper ground up in it. It's good for anti-seize, not a lot of use for anything else.

Silicone grease (and vaseline) are dielectric -- they actually improve electrical connectivity. An ordinary grease will just stop the rust (and make your fingers smelly).