Technical Changing heads

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Technical Changing heads

Elxpunto90

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Hi guys can anyone give me advice on cylinder heads

The head in my car has a shattered top end valve guide so I decided to get another standard head would it be okay to put my camshaft on the new head and bolt on to my car with a new head gaaket or would I need to get clearances done on cam shaft
 
Give it a thorough check first and maybe a skim if needs be but the heads are interchangeable. If your car is an 8V I have a new Panda 4x4 cam'd head in my shed that should give you a few more broken horses. :)
 
Like I said in the other post -- I'd skim the head (makes it clean and flat), cut in the valves (makes them seal properly) and re-shim the head.

Generally I pay something like £30 for a skim and valve re-cut. Shimming is easy DIY (all you need is a feeler guage and a bit of paper to write suff down on) when the head is off. You won't need all the shims changed (some you'll be able to swap around) and they're only a couple of quid a pop from Fluffy.

Do the lot and you can put your feet up for 40k miles.
 
Okay guys changed the head and valves done head is straight put back on car tried starting it's turning over when starting but won't idle it only idles like a tractor if I keep my foot on accelerator it's very jumpy lumpy any ideas please also when you do timing on car do you put bottom crank pulley mark inline with the crank sensor or is it the mark on the block because I used the mark on block last time the same as this time but now it won't run
 
Right I think the problem is lying around no 2 cylinder because if I disconnect the injector lead there's no change in idle pattern but if I do this to any of the others it changes and the same goes with the spark plug lead too does anybody have any ideas there's a spark coming of ht to plugs in all of them I'm totally confused on what it could be and no 2 injector is working properly and clicking I did clean and test out of car aswell as on car
 
Hi fingers tried swapping plugs and injectors no different so I did compression test cylinders 134 getting compression no 2 had nothing so I took rocker cover off and checked clearances with a piece of a coke can as didn't have a feeler gauge and all the others on 134 cylinders were either slightly tight when cam lobe was up but could still turn shims but no 2 were tight on both shims so I'm presuming it was open constant preventing a seal to make compression in cylinder 2 so I did a bit of swapping around shims on another cylinder and now it's moved to cylinder 1 so when I disconnect either spark plug or injector on it it doesn't make any difference like it did on cylinder 2 but because I swapped them around cylinder 2 changes note when disconnecting spark plug or injector so I presume cylinder 1 needs thinner shims to make valves shut properly will do another compression test tomorrow to see what psi there at at does this sound right to you still under runs on idle and konks presuming that would be the lost compression doing that it revs up ok and sounds better until it idles again
 
Hi fingers got a descent set of feeler gauges did check no1 and no2 valve clearances couldn't get feeler gauge in at all so presuming valve is constantly open causing loss of compression photo here of clearances shall I swap valve 3 and 8 with 1 and 2 and see if that works ImageUploadedByFIAT Forum1405272139.075838.jpg
 
The head I have put on the car was the one I bought the other week all looks in mint condition I was wandering whether it was my camshaft causing problem because it was ok on the old head I had on it but seems to be 2 shims with problem they all move up and down with no problems just the gap is tight not being able to put feeler blade in them
 
I've wrote down the shim sizes and moved them about a bit to adjust heights all look ok now apart from no 3 can't get no reading ImageUploadedByFIAT Forum1405365622.975851.jpgImageUploadedByFIAT Forum1405365644.645854.jpg
Think I need a thinner shim for it
 
I haven't got any more shims using the same shims camshaft and cups off my old head didn't get any with this head

Question
If there Is a tiny gap between shim and cam lobe when lobe is up is that ok which means valve will be shut as long there's a gap on all shims the car should run fine
I'm just having trouble finding clearance figures any where Haynes manual doesn't support my car and don't know who too ask who has them
 
Ok will try this fingers thanks for the measurements hoping to get it sorted been ages since last driven
 
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