Technical Track rod (tie rod) lock nut seized up - repair options?

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Technical Track rod (tie rod) lock nut seized up - repair options?

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After getting a new front lower suspension arm fitted to my Punto I took it to have the tracking checked and adjusted. However they couldn't free the locking nut (pictured below). They put the blow torch on it but no good, said they could try fitting a new track rod end, though it might need the inner one as well.

TrackRodLockNut2.jpg

Wondering about tackling the job myself. I have the Haynes manual but it only covers the basics of removing the track rod end (splitting the ball joint, counting the number of turns to undo the end, etc). I've looked at similar posts but not found very much about the inner rod so would value any advice/hints/tips. In particular:

Is it worth trying to replace just the track rod end? If so what would be the best way to separate this from the inner rod?

Would it be easier to replace the inner and outer parts together? If so how do you detach the inner rod from the steering rack -- the joint (picture below) doesn't seem to have any flats to put a spanner (or crow's foot) on. Also, I gather it is likely to have threadlocker applied - how difficult will that make it to unscrew - has anyone done this?

InnerTrackRod.jpg

Thanks!
 
After getting a new front lower suspension arm fitted to my Punto I took it to have the tracking checked and adjusted. However they couldn't free the locking nut (pictured below). They put the blow torch on it but no good, said they could try fitting a new track rod end, though it might need the inner one as well.

View attachment 134037

Wondering about tackling the job myself. I have the Haynes manual but it only covers the basics of removing the track rod end (splitting the ball joint, counting the number of turns to undo the end, etc). I've looked at similar posts but not found very much about the inner rod so would value any advice/hints/tips. In particular:

Is it worth trying to replace just the track rod end? If so what would be the best way to separate this from the inner rod?

Would it be easier to replace the inner and outer parts together? If so how do you detach the inner rod from the steering rack -- the joint (picture below) doesn't seem to have any flats to put a spanner (or crow's foot) on. Also, I gather it is likely to have threadlocker applied - how difficult will that make it to unscrew - has anyone done this?

View attachment 134038

Thanks!

there is a special tool for the inner tie rods,

in the past ive just used stilson's or used an old exhaust clamp.
 
If a garage has heated (red heat?)up the lock nut and it still wont undo it's unlikely you can do anything at home with a pair of axle stands and set of spanners. Some jobs are best left to a garage.
 
I usually use stilsons but, as said above, it can be a struggle on the drive and if you're not confident then safety related stuff like this is best left to a garage.
 
That's one type, others are a tube like device that slips over the end and grips when turned.
 
Do you mean a blow torch, or proper oxy-acetylene gear? Working on bolts that have been in place since 1918, there's not many that proper oxy-acetylene gear won't shift. Simple propane torches have failed many a time to get the job done though.

Not 100% sure. They said they were having trouble getting a good grip on the nut itself as well. To be fair I was there for the tracking so I suppose they were limited in how much time they could reasonably spend working on it.
 
I have had to apply heat to literally every turn of a track rod end on many occasions, again IMO if you haven't the proper tools/ramps and the track rod end nut is probably now rounded get garage to do it, it wont be expensive.
 
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Not 100% sure. They said they were having trouble getting a good grip on the nut itself as well. To be fair I was there for the tracking so I suppose they were limited in how much time they could reasonably spend working on it.

by looks of the picture youve posted above
your mechanic friends have heated that up until glowing red.

if heat dont move it nothing will,

replace inner tie rod they is not expensive.,

by the time youve paid out in more labour costs trying to undue something that is obviously welded with age /rust and heat it aint worth it
 
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