Technical Reliability issues

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Technical Reliability issues

If the ecu comes back with no fault, it will save me a lot of money, but will not have resolved my problem. I have checked various parts of the wiring with circuit tester, i.e. from ecu to coil pack, but there is plenty more to check.

Frustrating thing is that it is probably a very minor little fault, it is just a major issue to find it!
 
I might be wrong here but, is the ecu in the engine bay, if so it might be a dry joint in the ecu, when cold there is a connection, but when hot the soldering point becomes a dry joint, when the ecu was tested was it cold?

try testing the ecu when hot (heatup with hairdryer!).

all symtoms point to a dry joint somewhere, it's finding it, which will be hard part, sorry.

Rgds Steve
 
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Well it's not the ecu. BBA rang today and confirmed that it is ok and I should get it back on Thursday. This saves me a lot of money, but doesn't get me any closer to resolving the problem.
 
Problem solved, Bertie lives.

Having checked all the wiring, I invested in a set of noid lights which check the pulse at the injectors. It confirmed no pulse, which hinted that there was no signal comng from the camshaft sensor (the first thing I had replaced).

I checked the resistance on the new camshaft sensor and it measured 10 ohms. It should be around 400! I removed it and refitted the original and the engine ran, but still with the original problem with a failure to restart. However, I fitted a new sensor today and the engine runs and restarts. Been round the block a few times and given it a good wash. lets hope that is the problem solved and Bertie can celebrate his 20th birthday.
 
Problem solved, Bertie lives.

Having checked all the wiring, I invested in a set of noid lights which check the pulse at the injectors. It confirmed no pulse, which hinted that there was no signal comng from the camshaft sensor (the first thing I had replaced).

I checked the resistance on the new camshaft sensor and it measured 10 ohms. It should be around 400! I removed it and refitted the original and the engine ran, but still with the original problem with a failure to restart. However, I fitted a new sensor today and the engine runs and restarts. Been round the block a few times and given it a good wash. lets hope that is the problem solved and Bertie can celebrate his 20th birthday.

told u
 
Well Bertie has been running perfectly for 5 months now and celebrated his 20th birthday. Last used him on Thursday, then went to move him today for a wash and he wouldn't start. Fitted a noid light and confirmed no electrical pulse at the injector. Could it be the camshaft sensor again? I tested the resistance, which appears ok. Could it be a relay this time?
Looks like I know what I will be doing tomorrow!
 
Well Bertie has been running perfectly for 5 months now and celebrated his 20th birthday. Last used him on Thursday, then went to move him today for a wash and he wouldn't start. Fitted a noid light and confirmed no electrical pulse at the injector. Could it be the camshaft sensor again? I tested the resistance, which appears ok. Could it be a relay this time?
Looks like I know what I will be doing tomorrow!

mine is 20 years old aswell yo ho ho

what do you mean wouldnt start, cranking but not starting or?
 
Cranking ok. As I said, I checked with a noid light, which confirmed that there is no electrical impulse reaching the injectors. This is the same symptom I had when the crank sensor was faulty.
 
Went out to the car this morning and it started first time and has been fine since. I still suspect the crank sensor, so will probably replace it and keep the existing as a spare.
 
I would look at condition of earth strap / connection and coils. Both items can break down when warm.


I'd go with your suggestion. We hd a similar problem once on a 6 month old Panda. Turned out the connection between the ground (-) on the battery and the body was rotten.

Krank sensor was my firt guess, but that turned out not to be the problem (however, cheap (Chinese) spares sometimes don't work).
 
All other parts of the electrical side including earth and coil pack have been checked. Fortunately we have an independent Alpha and Fiat specialist locally and will source the part through them, rather than the local motor factors.
 
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