Hi all,

Still having probs with my motor (other threads)

On my coil pack casting in order it says

4
1
3
2

But my leads from when the engine was rebuilt were put in

1
4
3
2


Could this be my problem, although switching between them 2 combs, at the moment doesn't seem to make it any better, I know the inside of my engine is covered with black carbon sut? all the way to the end of the exhaust.

Can anyone confirm the order the leads go on.

Dave

Well just pulled my plugs and cleaned them, put the leads back as the casting shows, still the same? or would it take time clear up?

tis still misfiring

I wonder if a leaking inlet manifold would cause this.

Dave, it's a wasted spark system, so the spark is coupled in two sets of two, with one spark being wasted on the exhaust stroke of one piston whilst the other igniting the compressed fuel/air in the other. I think they are grouped 1 with 4 and 2 with 3, so swapping the positions of 1 and 4 makes no difference since they fire together anyway.

ooohhh thanks for that explanation mate, so I guess i'm still in the dark then ready scream mate, guess another head is in need as this started since the head transfer.

surly a none skimmed head wouldn't cause this. really really cant think of anything else.

Dave

cmgunn3r said:

surly a none skimmed head wouldn't cause this. really really cant think of anything else.

Dave

Click to expand...

I would suspect that it could cause this. If the head was warped, perhaps the new gasket has not sealed properly, causing a slight ingestion of water into the cylinders, damping the effectiveness of the spark. Are you losing any coolant?

This is the same problem already covered in great depth.
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto/242866-lambda-sensor-reading.html

Popular opinion is the Lambda sensor but OP insists its the cylinder head because he's replaced it recently although there are zero signs of a head gasket leak or faulty valves.

Please get the ECU codes interrogated and go from there.

Hi Mike,

I've not noticed the water coolant going down, But its only been jst over a week.

I would get the ecu read, but Like i said on that thread I can't find a garage that can get a connection 2 my ecu, Or in other cases they hav'nt got the connector, Hence why I asked on here if anybody would do it for me, With there set up I would travel to them of course.

There is how ever a slight greyish smoke coming from the exhaust and you can smell the cat when the engine get hot.

maybe it could be the lambda I did try another, but when I disconnect it when the engine is warm and running it makes no affect on the engine?

Just cant really understand how replacing the metal block would cause the sensor to go down? when it was idling good before with no misfire, stumbling etc. as if its being chocked. Unless this head is more worn than the one i had on, My cam lobes were in better condition for a start.

Plus these symptoms start from the 1st turn of the key when the engine is cold, and get worse as it warms up, rocker cover was that hot today I couldn't touch it.

Fiats use the same ECU connector as VWs so anyone (who's any good) should be able to do the job.

You can get the coolant tested for combustion products to rule out (or in) the head gasket. There are lots of other places for coolant to leak from.

If its bad there will be coolant and bubbles blowing into the header tank from the top vent pipe. Coolant can damage a Lambda sensor and the catalyst if left long enough.

Thanks for that mate,

Will look in the expansion tank in a moment, what odds would you say it is lambda sensor faulty? i know one site says they have a lifespan of 30,000 to 50,000 miles. I'm on 102,118miles now?

Its a tough decision for me as at the moment money wise, I've either got the choice of replacing the head or buying a new sensor.

I know if the engine is hot and I remove the wire for the o2 sensor, the engine is no different

Dave

With the engine running, remove and replace each spark plug lead in turn and define which ones make no difference.

Work from there.

Cheers

D

rallycinq said:

With the engine running, remove and replace each spark plug lead in turn and define which ones make no difference.

Work from there.

Cheers

D

Click to expand...

I've tried mate, and tried the coil pack test, where you run off one coil pack, then the other and it makes no difference.

All 4 of my spark plugs have black carbon sut on them and the full length of my exhaust pipe does.

cheers

Rite peeps,

I trying test my lambda sensor just want to make sure im getting this rite.

In the pics I'm putting the + probe of my multimeter to the wire arrowed in pic, my multimeter is set up as seen in the second pic, and I'm putting the - probe of my multimeter to the outer case of the lambda sensor.

My reading, engine off .001 and when engine is running it rise's to .013 and stays there. Unless i'm doing something wrong, I've rev'd the engine and the number doesn't move. That's in volt's by the way.

Is that rite?

if it is faulty I can get one tomorrow £40 from local motor factors.

Dave

I'm reading more on the net and its pointing more to that sensor? dare I risk the price? and replace it with new.

http://www.ehow.com/facts_4870063_what-symptoms-faulty-oxygen-sensor.html

http://www.ehow.com/facts_4815064_common-symptoms-bad-oxygen-sensor.html

Them too links are pretty much spot on, bearing in mind when the head was changed the exhaust manifold was just unbolted and pulled aside.

Dave

You know what? I think the pennie might have dropped lol I'll get a new lambda 2moz and let you know, If it doesn't fix it what else could it be after everything that controls air/fuel mixture has been replace.

Any tips for fitting this lambda as I know there easy to damage.

Dave

The trouble is without knowing the ECU codes its a bit of a guessing game. Just checked S4P. they are not cheap things to swap unless deffo blown

http://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Results&keywords=lambda

See if this helps:
http://www.autodiagnos.com/fileadmi...bulletins/misc/gea_testing_lambda_sensors.pdf

WhiteSei said:

The trouble is without knowing the ECU codes its a bit of a guessing game. Just checked S4P. they are not cheap things to swap unless deffo blown

http://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Results&keywords=lambda

See if this helps:
http://www.autodiagnos.com/fileadmi...bulletins/misc/gea_testing_lambda_sensors.pdf

Click to expand...

Thanks for advice and that pdf make's a really good read, I know what you mean, Just throwing parts and hoping 4 a fix isn't doing it any good im also losing hair lol no joke, apart from ruling out good parts. But taking in mind I have replaced everything that concerns the air/fuel ratio, And my current lambda sensor could have hit something when I unbolted the exhaust manifold and lowered it. Or for all I know it could have been on there since new.

Luckily my local motor factors (Smithsons in longton) only charges £40 for one.

I got a positive feeling it may be that as if it's disconnect hot or cold. It makes no difference, Had a look at the timing again today and its bang on. Also took all my spark plugs out and cleaned them. Still to no avail.

Reading that and info on the net. Its like a puzzle coming together. Fingers crossed as I will be getting one tomorrow. :worship:

Dave

Yep one expensive game.

Have you done a compression test on the new head? Air filter/TB all clean?

Regarding testing the Lambda - IIRC the two white wires are the heating element, you should read a resistance across the pair (i can't remember from memory but it was a few Ohms I think). You should read a fluctuating voltage across the grey and black when the engine is running; it should quickly switch from ~0.2V to ~0.8V every second or so. If you get a constant reading (or nothing at all, even), it's buggered.

Hi.

Just done the test as suggested by ST60SX.

When the engine first start for around 4-5mins the reading was moving between 900-850 steadily.

The the video is when it warmed up, After reving it does steady for so long around 800-700.

Video shows result's. If you din't mind looking.

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANcJpUa0o1w"]YouTube- DSCF9915.MP4[/nomedia]

Weird as it is drinking petrol. I top up £30 and that usually last's 2 weeks, at the moment its lasted 6days, I'm just on my bottom quarter line.

This sensor was off a car at the scrap yard, cant remember what model, but it was a mk1 punto.

Plus when I restart the engine when hot, It does the same cycle on the multimeter as if it was cold? stuck around 800-700 for around 20seconds.

Same as if I rev the engine, When I stop it stays around 700-800 for around 20seconds. before bouncing.

Dave

bad fuel consumption & lump idle with everything else looking ok points at poor mixture control. Lambdas are sensitive kit so used ones are always suspect.

Make sure you get the right type.