Technical Disks and pads - Torque settings + anything obscure when changing them?

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Technical Disks and pads - Torque settings + anything obscure when changing them?

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Disks and pads - anything obscure when changing them?

Hi again.

I was reading through the service history of the new Punto Twinair late last night and noticed an advisory on the last service about a ware lip on the disks.

Didn't think much about it as I was expecting it would be normal ware of a couple MM.

When washing the car this morning I noticed the biggest badest ware lip I've ever seen on a disk... dam I missed it when buying the car but hay ho.

These are vented disks so I'm not wanting to leave them much longer.

Having seen this in the Panda section I thought I best check

... I was going to ask about front pads as to wether they had the " Astra mk 3" syndrome , if you pushed back piston without clamping pipe and releasing the bleed nipple you rendered the master cylinder u/s due to turning the seals back on thereselves.


I know my Panda survived OK, but is there anything to worry about when pushing back the calliper pistons on a Punto?

Also is there anywhere I can get the torque wrench settings from please? Think they are about the same for Uno / Brava / panda but it would be nice to know.

Probably going to need to know...

Wheel bolts (probably 86Nm for alloy wheels)
Calliper to carrier bolts
Calliper carrier to stub axle bolts
Bolts that hold disk to hub (no not the hub nuts)

Thanks in advance :)
 
callipher carrier to stub axle I tend to make sure very tight but also use thread locktite to stop things coming loose caliper to carrier tight, I now always tend to clamp brake hose open bleed nipple and then compress piston,easy enough to bleed out with self bleed:)
 
callipher carrier to stub axle I tend to make sure very tight but also use thread locktite to stop things coming loose caliper to carrier tight, I now always tend to clamp brake hose open bleed nipple and then compress piston,easy enough to bleed out with self bleed:)

Thanks for the reply.

On the torque settings as I'm not a mechanic I struggle with the term very tight... over the years I've come a cropper with snapping bolts and suffered the consequences. Just a bit tighter... Oh :eek: Ffffffff :mad:

Also used to get paranoid it'd not under done it so don't leave it to chance.

Is to save time and hassle I don't try and guess.

Got a few torque wrenches in my collection up to a 3/4" drive for doing hub nuts scale is up to 406nM - way too tight for even hub nuts. but 240nm was beyond what I'd already got... Also got a 3/4breaker bar for cracking hub nuts. - got them to do a drive shaft / dif seal on a Brava about 10 years ago.

Good way of thinking about clamping the hoses and pushing back the calliper pistons too. It was something I'd never considered until the Astra MK3 comment the other day. Got clamps from when I did my Uno clutch :)

I think the only thing that puts me off slightly is knowing what happens to bleed screws when you try and open them... yes you can guess I followed the Haynes classic sketch to the tee with an open ended spanner to crack a bleed screw - oh it's all round now...

Always a socket set to crack them and a ring spanner to open and close during bleeding. Should be OK with callipers that are only 5 years old (y)
 
extremely little TA info out there,

for torque settings - I tend to use the old FIAT Porter manual,

find the torque value for a specific thread..


as Jerry said - what he's used on a panda (presumably) should carry across.

Yes very little info... I was a bit shocked when I looked at gear oil on euro car parts today (I like to replace it if I'm keeping the car a few years).. DCT fluid??? Oh no - not a dual mass flywheel... Oh bugger they have one listed for my car :( That makes a new clutch job rather expensive

Back to the torque Nothing in the hand book about how tight to put the spare wheel on the car :confused: OK it's probabley 86Nm for alloys

I was going to do just that... have a look in the Uno porter manual / various haynes manules and go somewhere in the middle.

Had forgot the porter manual gives thread details :) Many Thanks too.
 
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NEVER use open ended spanner on Bleed nipple if you have rounded it off you can use a pair of mol grips to get it loose best to buy a replacement,nipple If you are gointo 2DIY" you might be better off with a proper brake spanner(looks like ring spanner with a bit missing on the ring.Therubber brake pipe clamping you would be better of with aproper brake hose clamp(I have always used small mole grips)
 
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