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<!-- google_ad_section_start -->How to replace a PAS column on a Punto Mk2 HGT... Part 1<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
How to replace a PAS column on a Punto Mk2 HGT... Part 1
My apologies for some of the picture clarity they were taken on a mobile initially as a reference for myself! ;)
Published by Dark_Crusader
20-11-2010
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How to replace a PAS column on a Punto Mk2 HGT... Part 1

Hey F.F'rs !

Don't know if anyone else has posted this 'How to", but I did this Power Steering Column swap on my X-reg Fiat Punto HGT by myself in the cold month of December 2009 after it had failed the MOT fort not working. Well it's now November 2010 and at the time of typing this, since that time when I fitted it , the same week it PASSED it's MOT in a Government approved facility with flying colours.
Had to set the record straight before I get any doubters out there! LOL.

I have been told that this job should take around an hour, but mine was considerably longer due to having no instruction Manual or guide to work from and my taking the time to ensure this went according to plan, so don'tbe afraid to take your time as speed only comes with experience and practice!

If you are thinking of doing this job, a piece of advice ...

Only attempt this job if you are confident that you can pull the job off.

IF THERE IS THE SLIGHTEST BIT OF DOUBT IN YOUR MIND AS TO YOUR CAPABILITIES, THEN DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS, PLEASE LEAVE IT TO AN EXPERIENCED MECHANIC OR YOUR LOCAL FIAT SPECIALIST. I WILL NOT ACCEPT LIABILITY FOR YOUR MISTAKES.
You will obviously pay more, but at least it will have been done right if you can't do it


Column Buying Advice

1. Obviously it is up to you where you buy your Power Assisted Steering Column from.
If you are really strapped for cash you could buy second-hand for around 60-80 (or less at the time of posting) from E-bay, Gumtree, Loot, etc, but unless you're sure the Column code and the column itself is ok for sure, then I personally would be against this idea, as it could work out to be a false economy, especially if you have spent the effort to fix it and to have the same problem a month, three, six or twelve months down the line. Sure there may be a small minority of people who have managed to do this and have quite a long run with their column, but in terms of your own success and time, not knowing the history of the unit and no warranty, the chances of you having a second-hand column work for 12 months and beyond are slim to anorexic!

2. You could buy the Power Assisted Steering Column unit brand new if you have 1000.00 burning a hole in your pocket!, which is an ideal thing we'd all like to do but if the Punto is worth less than the value of your Column, unless you REALLY like your car, is it worth spending that much on it ? Piece of mind yes, but even Fiat admit the column is not guaranteed that the problem could crop up again after a while.

3. Buy it from someone on the Fiat Forum? Not a bad thing and sure you can do this if you feel confident about the seller, however I must refer to point 1. if I'm playing advocate, will they are Guarantee it as well ? I don't think they will somehow! If that is not an issue for you then go for it.

4. This was the option I opted for. The cost of my Power Assisted Steering Column was WAY cheaper than what I'd been quoted previously by Mechanics and alike.
I opted for a RE-MANUFACTURED UNIT, which was ALREADY CALIBRATED and the company I sourced my unit from was ECU Testing LTD and they have a shop on E-bay or I believe you can do phone orders too . Their unit at the time of posting this How-to, only cost me (at the time of posting prior to VAT increase in jan 2011), 224.00 and is guaranteed for TWO YEARS. They even supply some FIAT dealers with some of their units too! So that was good enough for me. The only stipulation they have is that you send your OLD faulty unit back to them which is obviously why you get it cheaper when they receive the unit then the Guarantee will kick in also,

If you send it via UPS they said it would cost (at the time of posting), around 12-15 to send. I sent mine via Royal mail and it cost around 20 via Special Delivery. If you don't return the old unit you will be charged an additional 80 and the warranty does not activate till it is sent back to them. So be warned!!

Now on to the main event!

!! PLEASE NOTE!! During this process you will need to swap your ignition barrel over to the new column! They are usually held in place by two long bolts and rivets if original part, which cannot be unscrewed you will need two similar bolts with appropriate nuts to secure them to the replacement column if not already supplied! Try also to take care as to not let your barrel fall apart when removing otherwise you will have to play a guessing game of how it went together so take note of assembly if unsure.

You will need Hex-bolts/allen Keys, or a Hex bit from an interchangeable screwdriver set, an assortment of phillips Screw drivers, with one or two of them being around 15-25 cm in length so you can get at some of the screws located deep in the steering column trim.
A ratchet set and/or spanners and a large adjustable spanner to remove the Boss nut of the steering wheel when you take it off (yes you will have to take it off). Which brings me nicely to my next point...

BEFORE DIS-ASSEMBLING ANY PARTS OF THE COLUMN OR STEERING WHEEL MAKE SURE THE ROAD WHEELS ARE DEAD STRAIGHT BEFORE STARTING AND REMOVING THE STEERING WHEEL !!


I had no helping hands with me, so l lined mine up with long planks of wood against the tyre walls, using the back wheels as a reference to align the front wheels. once you're happy you've aligned the wheels and the steering wheel is straight or as near dammit as possible, park it up, disconnect the battery and wait for 30 mins. I actually forgot to wait the 30 mins and this resulted in my air-bag warning light staying on once I fixed it - DOH!!


1. First, release the adjustable steering column lever at the base of the column to the 'down' position, then undo the bottom of the PAS columns plastic trim ensuring you keep the screws together once removed (Pic. 1).
Click image for larger version

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2. Remove trim that covers the interiors Fuse-Box (Pic. 2), taking care not to break the plastic hooks that are attached to the rungs below the Fuse-Box...
Click image for larger version

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3. Then moving on to the ignition barrel (Pic. 3-6) carefully detach the connecting blocks from your ignition barrel taking note of where they go, if unsure don't be afraid to label them in a way you remember,
( I wrote on bits of masking tape to help me remember where things went).
Remember it's nothing to be ashamed of to label things up it's just good common sense! Otherwise you might end up in wire re-connecting Hell lol.
Click image for larger version

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4. Next you'll see like a black metal casing on part of the base of the PAS column (Pic.7-9). Use your ratchet set or spanners to remove this...
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5. When you remove this part (Pic.10), you should find a plastic grommet holding a single black cable. Detach this noting how it is attached and where (Pic. 11 & 12).
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6. Moving to the Steering Wheel, grab your Hex tool and start loosening the bolts housed on the back of the Steering Wheel (Pic.13-15), taking note of how tight the bolts are screwed in as you need to know how tight they went on when you re-attach it...
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7. Once you have done this you should find that the central part (Horn) can come off (Pic. 16).
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BE VERY CAREFUL AT THIS POINT AS THIS IS WHERE YOUR AIR-BAG UNIT IS HOUSED SO PLEASE TAKE CARE AND ATTENTION WHEN DETACHING, do it slowly don't yank it off !!!.

8. After slowly removing you'll see on the back a green coloured module (Pic. 17) attached to the centre of the horn/air-bag. Gently prise this off...
Click image for larger version

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9. Next remove the metal plate covering the central Hex nut that is centrally seated on your Steering Wheel also detach black wire that is coming through your steering wheel from the connecting block inside the steering wheel (Pic. 18-20)
Click image for larger version

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10. Remove nut (Pic. 21), using appropriate sized ratchet. You may need someone to hold the wheel for you whilst you do this. I used my legs to steady the wheel when I did it, not ideal but it worked!
Click image for larger version

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When the Steering Wheel nut is off remove washer surrounding the thread at the top of the column (Pic.22).
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Now the steering wheel may have settled in position since last time it was taken off so tap the back of the Steering Wheel with a rubber mallet or if you don't have this then use the heel of your hand and firmly strike the back of the wheel in a North, East, South, West type of pattern. The wheel should only require a few taps to come off but DO NOT YANK IT OFF!!. The reason being (Pic.23-24), you still have the Airbag Sensor Wire and Black Wire still in the wheel at this point so please be careful!.
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END OF PART 1 of 2
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Old 29-09-2011   #1
Join Date: Sep 2011
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United Kingdom 
Re: How to replace a PAS column on a Punto Mk2 HGT... Part 1

Hello,

I hope you don't mind me asking but your article which is very comprehensive and a real help but I'm planning to have a go at replacing my daughters PAS column on her Punto this week - end and I have a couple questions:

During this process you will need to swap your ignition barrel over to the new column! They are usually held in place by two long bolts and rivets if original part, which cannot be unscrewed you will need two similar bolts with appropriate nuts to secure them to the replacement column if not already supplied!

Did you have buy the new bolts and if so where from? As for the rivets did you replace these with bolts or new rivets?

How careful do I have to be removing the ignition barrel does it come apart fairly easily what if I placed something like masking tape around the barrel do you think that it would help?

In anticipation thanks for your time.

Regards,

Jan
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Old 28-02-2012   #2
Join Date: Feb 2012
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Re: How to replace a PAS column on a Punto Mk2 HGT... Part 1

Quote Originally Posted by Dark_Crusader View Post
Hey F.F'rs !

Don't know if anyone else has posted this 'How to", but I did this Power Steering Column swap on my X-reg Fiat Punto HGT by myself in the cold month of December 2009 after it had failed the MOT fort not working. Well it's now November 2010 and at the time of typing this, since that time when I fitted it , the same week it PASSED it's MOT in a Government approved facility with flying colours.
Had to set the record straight before I get any doubters out there! LOL.

I have been told that this job should take around an hour, but mine was considerably longer due to having no instruction Manual or guide to work from and my taking the time to ensure this went according to plan, so don'tbe afraid to take your time as speed only comes with experience and practice!

If you are thinking of doing this job, a piece of advice ...

Only attempt this job if you are confident that you can pull the job off.

IF THERE IS THE SLIGHTEST BIT OF DOUBT IN YOUR MIND AS TO YOUR CAPABILITIES, THEN DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS, PLEASE LEAVE IT TO AN EXPERIENCED MECHANIC OR YOUR LOCAL FIAT SPECIALIST. I WILL NOT ACCEPT LIABILITY FOR YOUR MISTAKES.
You will obviously pay more, but at least it will have been done right if you can't do it


Column Buying Advice

1. Obviously it is up to you where you buy your Power Assisted Steering Column from.
If you are really strapped for cash you could buy second-hand for around 60-80 (or less at the time of posting) from E-bay, Gumtree, Loot, etc, but unless you're sure the Column code and the column itself is ok for sure, then I personally would be against this idea, as it could work out to be a false economy, especially if you have spent the effort to fix it and to have the same problem a month, three, six or twelve months down the line. Sure there may be a small minority of people who have managed to do this and have quite a long run with their column, but in terms of your own success and time, not knowing the history of the unit and no warranty, the chances of you having a second-hand column work for 12 months and beyond are slim to anorexic!

2. You could buy the Power Assisted Steering Column unit brand new if you have 1000.00 burning a hole in your pocket!, which is an ideal thing we'd all like to do but if the Punto is worth less than the value of your Column, unless you REALLY like your car, is it worth spending that much on it ? Piece of mind yes, but even Fiat admit the column is not guaranteed that the problem could crop up again after a while.

3. Buy it from someone on the Fiat Forum? Not a bad thing and sure you can do this if you feel confident about the seller, however I must refer to point 1. if I'm playing advocate, will they are Guarantee it as well ? I don't think they will somehow! If that is not an issue for you then go for it.

4. This was the option I opted for. The cost of my Power Assisted Steering Column was WAY cheaper than what I'd been quoted previously by Mechanics and alike.
I opted for a RE-MANUFACTURED UNIT, which was ALREADY CALIBRATED and the company I sourced my unit from was ECU Testing LTD and they have a shop on E-bay or I believe you can do phone orders too . Their unit at the time of posting this How-to, only cost me (at the time of posting prior to VAT increase in jan 2011), 224.00 and is guaranteed for TWO YEARS. They even supply some FIAT dealers with some of their units too! So that was good enough for me. The only stipulation they have is that you send your OLD faulty unit back to them which is obviously why you get it cheaper when they receive the unit then the Guarantee will kick in also,

If you send it via UPS they said it would cost (at the time of posting), around 12-15 to send. I sent mine via Royal mail and it cost around 20 via Special Delivery. If you don't return the old unit you will be charged an additional 80 and the warranty does not activate till it is sent back to them. So be warned!!

Now on to the main event!

!! PLEASE NOTE!! During this process you will need to swap your ignition barrel over to the new column! They are usually held in place by two long bolts and rivets if original part, which cannot be unscrewed you will need two similar bolts with appropriate nuts to secure them to the replacement column if not already supplied! Try also to take care as to not let your barrel fall apart when removing otherwise you will have to play a guessing game of how it went together so take note of assembly if unsure.

You will need Hex-bolts/allen Keys, or a Hex bit from an interchangeable screwdriver set, an assortment of phillips Screw drivers, with one or two of them being around 15-25 cm in length so you can get at some of the screws located deep in the steering column trim.
A ratchet set and/or spanners and a large adjustable spanner to remove the Boss nut of the steering wheel when you take it off (yes you will have to take it off). Which brings me nicely to my next point...

BEFORE DIS-ASSEMBLING ANY PARTS OF THE COLUMN OR STEERING WHEEL MAKE SURE THE ROAD WHEELS ARE DEAD STRAIGHT BEFORE STARTING AND REMOVING THE STEERING WHEEL !!


I had no helping hands with me, so l lined mine up with long planks of wood against the tyre walls, using the back wheels as a reference to align the front wheels. once you're happy you've aligned the wheels and the steering wheel is straight or as near dammit as possible, park it up, disconnect the battery and wait for 30 mins. I actually forgot to wait the 30 mins and this resulted in my air-bag warning light staying on once I fixed it - DOH!!


1. First, release the adjustable steering column lever at the base of the column to the 'down' position, then undo the bottom of the PAS columns plastic trim ensuring you keep the screws together once removed (Pic. 1).
Attachment 83954

2. Remove trim that covers the interiors Fuse-Box (Pic. 2), taking care not to break the plastic hooks that are attached to the rungs below the Fuse-Box...
Attachment 83955

3. Then moving on to the ignition barrel (Pic. 3-6) carefully detach the connecting blocks from your ignition barrel taking note of where they go, if unsure don't be afraid to label them in a way you remember,
( I wrote on bits of masking tape to help me remember where things went).
Remember it's nothing to be ashamed of to label things up it's just good common sense! Otherwise you might end up in wire re-connecting Hell lol.
Attachment 83956Attachment 83957Attachment 83958
Attachment 83962
4. Next you'll see like a black metal casing on part of the base of the PAS column (Pic.7-9). Use your ratchet set or spanners to remove this...
Attachment 83963Attachment 83964Attachment 83965

5. When you remove this part (Pic.10), you should find a plastic grommet holding a single black cable. Detach this noting how it is attached and where (Pic. 11 & 12).
Attachment 83966Attachment 83967

6. Moving to the Steering Wheel, grab your Hex tool and start loosening the bolts housed on the back of the Steering Wheel (Pic.13-15), taking note of how tight the bolts are screwed in as you need to know how tight they went on when you re-attach it...
Attachment 83968Attachment 83969Attachment 83970

7. Once you have done this you should find that the central part (Horn) can come off (Pic. 16).
Attachment 83971




BE VERY CAREFUL AT THIS POINT AS THIS IS WHERE YOUR AIR-BAG UNIT IS HOUSED SO PLEASE TAKE CARE AND ATTENTION WHEN DETACHING, do it slowly don't yank it off !!!.

8. After slowly removing you'll see on the back a green coloured module (Pic. 17) attached to the centre of the horn/air-bag. Gently prise this off...
Attachment 83972


9. Next remove the metal plate covering the central Hex nut that is centrally seated on your Steering Wheel also detach black wire that is coming through your steering wheel from the connecting block inside the steering wheel (Pic. 18-20)
Attachment 83973Attachment 83974Attachment 83975

10. Remove nut (Pic. 21), using appropriate sized ratchet. You may need someone to hold the wheel for you whilst you do this. I used my legs to steady the wheel when I did it, not ideal but it worked!
Attachment 83976


When the Steering Wheel nut is off remove washer surrounding the thread at the top of the column (Pic.22).
Attachment 83977

Now the steering wheel may have settled in position since last time it was taken off so tap the back of the Steering Wheel with a rubber mallet or if you don't have this then use the heel of your hand and firmly strike the back of the wheel in a North, East, South, West type of pattern. The wheel should only require a few taps to come off but DO NOT YANK IT OFF!!. The reason being (Pic.23-24), you still have the Airbag Sensor Wire and Black Wire still in the wheel at this point so please be careful!.
Attachment 83978Attachment 83987



END OF PART 1 of 2
Hello. Same problem as previous owners. Intermittent power steering. I followed the excellent instructions for replacing the column. Last hurdle (hopefully) I have failed.
I have undone the bottom nut from the column to the spline, by the clutch pedal but I can't remove the bolt, it is hitting the bulkhead, the bolt is at 12.00 o'clock position. I didn't want to turn the wheels to give access to the bolt as this would upset the wheel alignment.
Any suggestions, please. Thanks Ron
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Old 28-02-2012   #3
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Re: How to replace a PAS column on a Punto Mk2 HGT... Part 1

Hi. Can anybody help. My daughter has a Mk 2 1999 Punto. The power steering goes off intermittently, so I thought that I would have a go at replacing the column. I have followed the excellent instructions provided on the forum by Dark Crusader but have get stuck on the last section where the nut has been removed from the column to the spline at the floor by the clutch pedal but I can't remove the bolt. It hits the bulkhead. The bolt is at the 12.00 o'clock position. I thought about turning the wheels / column to push out the bolt but this would upset the wheel alignment, which I've been careful to keep straight, as per the advice. I presume that there is a key where the bolt goes through stopping the column from lifting off the spline with the bolt in place
Can anybody help with recommendations to remove this bolt.
Thanks Ron.
I have also found a loose cut wire under the dash, a very thin wire. I don't think that I broke it on removal of the wires to the column, I can't see another loose/broken end or a connector with a missing wire. However, one problem at a time is enough for me.
I need to get the old column out, so that I can buy a replacement. Thanks again, if somebody could advise me. Ron
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Old 05-03-2012   #4
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Re: How to replace a PAS column on a Punto Mk2 HGT... Part 1

Hi Ron!

Sorry I did not respond back quicker as I'm not on here as much as I used to be.
With your issue the only thing I can think of (bearing in mind I am not a proffesional mechanic) is before you start to mark on the ground the wheels in the straight position with either chalk or tape, then turn the wheel with the bolt still in untill you can get access to remove the bolt. Once you have replaced your column and secured it plus the bolt in the lower shaft and tightened the bolt, put the steering wheel back on but do not fasten it as you just want it to assist you so you can re-align the wheels to the original position you marked out previously?

Once happy with the alignment you can re-tighten the wheel and start putting things back in place.

As for that loose wire I think I'd need to see some pics as to its location and type before I can help you with that issue.

Hope that helps !
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Last edited by Dark_Crusader; 05-03-2012 at 16:27. Reason: error
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Old 19-09-2012   #5
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Re: How to replace a PAS column on a Punto Mk2 HGT... Part 1

Quote Originally Posted by Dark_Crusader View Post
Hey F.F'rs !

Don't know if anyone else has posted this 'How to", but I did this Power Steering Column swap on my X-reg Fiat Punto HGT by myself in the cold month of December 2009 after it had failed the MOT fort not working. Well it's now November 2010 and at the time of typing this, since that time when I fitted it , the same week it PASSED it's MOT in a Government approved facility with flying colours.
Had to set the record straight before I get any doubters out there! LOL.

I have been told that this job should take around an hour, but mine was considerably longer due to having no instruction Manual or guide to work from and my taking the time to ensure this went according to plan, so don'tbe afraid to take your time as speed only comes with experience and practice!

If you are thinking of doing this job, a piece of advice ...

Only attempt this job if you are confident that you can pull the job off.

IF THERE IS THE SLIGHTEST BIT OF DOUBT IN YOUR MIND AS TO YOUR CAPABILITIES, THEN DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS, PLEASE LEAVE IT TO AN EXPERIENCED MECHANIC OR YOUR LOCAL FIAT SPECIALIST. I WILL NOT ACCEPT LIABILITY FOR YOUR MISTAKES.
You will obviously pay more, but at least it will have been done right if you can't do it


Column Buying Advice

1. Obviously it is up to you where you buy your Power Assisted Steering Column from.
If you are really strapped for cash you could buy second-hand for around 60-80 (or less at the time of posting) from E-bay, Gumtree, Loot, etc, but unless you're sure the Column code and the column itself is ok for sure, then I personally would be against this idea, as it could work out to be a false economy, especially if you have spent the effort to fix it and to have the same problem a month, three, six or twelve months down the line. Sure there may be a small minority of people who have managed to do this and have quite a long run with their column, but in terms of your own success and time, not knowing the history of the unit and no warranty, the chances of you having a second-hand column work for 12 months and beyond are slim to anorexic!

2. You could buy the Power Assisted Steering Column unit brand new if you have 1000.00 burning a hole in your pocket!, which is an ideal thing we'd all like to do but if the Punto is worth less than the value of your Column, unless you REALLY like your car, is it worth spending that much on it ? Piece of mind yes, but even Fiat admit the column is not guaranteed that the problem could crop up again after a while.

3. Buy it from someone on the Fiat Forum? Not a bad thing and sure you can do this if you feel confident about the seller, however I must refer to point 1. if I'm playing advocate, will they are Guarantee it as well ? I don't think they will somehow! If that is not an issue for you then go for it.

4. This was the option I opted for. The cost of my Power Assisted Steering Column was WAY cheaper than what I'd been quoted previously by Mechanics and alike.
I opted for a RE-MANUFACTURED UNIT, which was ALREADY CALIBRATED and the company I sourced my unit from was ECU Testing LTD and they have a shop on E-bay or I believe you can do phone orders too . Their unit at the time of posting this How-to, only cost me (at the time of posting prior to VAT increase in jan 2011), 224.00 and is guaranteed for TWO YEARS. They even supply some FIAT dealers with some of their units too! So that was good enough for me. The only stipulation they have is that you send your OLD faulty unit back to them which is obviously why you get it cheaper when they receive the unit then the Guarantee will kick in also,

If you send it via UPS they said it would cost (at the time of posting), around 12-15 to send. I sent mine via Royal mail and it cost around 20 via Special Delivery. If you don't return the old unit you will be charged an additional 80 and the warranty does not activate till it is sent back to them. So be warned!!

Now on to the main event!

!! PLEASE NOTE!! During this process you will need to swap your ignition barrel over to the new column! They are usually held in place by two long bolts and rivets if original part, which cannot be unscrewed you will need two similar bolts with appropriate nuts to secure them to the replacement column if not already supplied! Try also to take care as to not let your barrel fall apart when removing otherwise you will have to play a guessing game of how it went together so take note of assembly if unsure.

You will need Hex-bolts/allen Keys, or a Hex bit from an interchangeable screwdriver set, an assortment of phillips Screw drivers, with one or two of them being around 15-25 cm in length so you can get at some of the screws located deep in the steering column trim.
A ratchet set and/or spanners and a large adjustable spanner to remove the Boss nut of the steering wheel when you take it off (yes you will have to take it off). Which brings me nicely to my next point...

BEFORE DIS-ASSEMBLING ANY PARTS OF THE COLUMN OR STEERING WHEEL MAKE SURE THE ROAD WHEELS ARE DEAD STRAIGHT BEFORE STARTING AND REMOVING THE STEERING WHEEL !!


I had no helping hands with me, so l lined mine up with long planks of wood against the tyre walls, using the back wheels as a reference to align the front wheels. once you're happy you've aligned the wheels and the steering wheel is straight or as near dammit as possible, park it up, disconnect the battery and wait for 30 mins. I actually forgot to wait the 30 mins and this resulted in my air-bag warning light staying on once I fixed it - DOH!!


1. First, release the adjustable steering column lever at the base of the column to the 'down' position, then undo the bottom of the PAS columns plastic trim ensuring you keep the screws together once removed (Pic. 1).
Attachment 83954

2. Remove trim that covers the interiors Fuse-Box (Pic. 2), taking care not to break the plastic hooks that are attached to the rungs below the Fuse-Box...
Attachment 83955

3. Then moving on to the ignition barrel (Pic. 3-6) carefully detach the connecting blocks from your ignition barrel taking note of where they go, if unsure don't be afraid to label them in a way you remember,
( I wrote on bits of masking tape to help me remember where things went).
Remember it's nothing to be ashamed of to label things up it's just good common sense! Otherwise you might end up in wire re-connecting Hell lol.
Attachment 83956Attachment 83957Attachment 83958
Attachment 83962
4. Next you'll see like a black metal casing on part of the base of the PAS column (Pic.7-9). Use your ratchet set or spanners to remove this...
Attachment 83963Attachment 83964Attachment 83965

5. When you remove this part (Pic.10), you should find a plastic grommet holding a single black cable. Detach this noting how it is attached and where (Pic. 11 & 12).
Attachment 83966Attachment 83967

6. Moving to the Steering Wheel, grab your Hex tool and start loosening the bolts housed on the back of the Steering Wheel (Pic.13-15), taking note of how tight the bolts are screwed in as you need to know how tight they went on when you re-attach it...
Attachment 83968Attachment 83969Attachment 83970

7. Once you have done this you should find that the central part (Horn) can come off (Pic. 16).
Attachment 83971




BE VERY CAREFUL AT THIS POINT AS THIS IS WHERE YOUR AIR-BAG UNIT IS HOUSED SO PLEASE TAKE CARE AND ATTENTION WHEN DETACHING, do it slowly don't yank it off !!!.

8. After slowly removing you'll see on the back a green coloured module (Pic. 17) attached to the centre of the horn/air-bag. Gently prise this off...
Attachment 83972


9. Next remove the metal plate covering the central Hex nut that is centrally seated on your Steering Wheel also detach black wire that is coming through your steering wheel from the connecting block inside the steering wheel (Pic. 18-20)
Attachment 83973Attachment 83974Attachment 83975

10. Remove nut (Pic. 21), using appropriate sized ratchet. You may need someone to hold the wheel for you whilst you do this. I used my legs to steady the wheel when I did it, not ideal but it worked!
Attachment 83976


When the Steering Wheel nut is off remove washer surrounding the thread at the top of the column (Pic.22).
Attachment 83977

Now the steering wheel may have settled in position since last time it was taken off so tap the back of the Steering Wheel with a rubber mallet or if you don't have this then use the heel of your hand and firmly strike the back of the wheel in a North, East, South, West type of pattern. The wheel should only require a few taps to come off but DO NOT YANK IT OFF!!. The reason being (Pic.23-24), you still have the Airbag Sensor Wire and Black Wire still in the wheel at this point so please be careful!.
Attachment 83978Attachment 83987



END OF PART 1 of 2
All I have been researching this fault extensivly and would like to say that I would be happy to help with any technical queries of infact replace a component for you. PM if you need help.....
Thanks
Dave
PS: My 1968 Fiat 500l blew up cylinder number two...Guess its dig the old parts catalogue out for Middle Barton this weekend.
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Old 06-03-2013   #6
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Re: How to replace a PAS column on a Punto Mk2 HGT... Part 1

Great guide, but it seems even after 30 mins of waiting the airbag warning light came on for me too!
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Old 21-01-2014   #7
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Re: How to replace a PAS column on a Punto Mk2 HGT... Part 1

As I mentioned above ^ I managed to sucsessfully replace the PAS column and has worked fine for nearly a year now. Also it seemed waiting for 30 mins failed to stop the airbag light coming on. As I'm now due to have an NCT (MOT) in May is this light just a matter of getting a mechanic to reset the system?
Cheers, Ger.
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