Bloody nightmare , Ive driven over 350 miles to the Eden project and about 320 in smoke started coming from the drivers side whilst going down a steep hill , of course due to there not being a spare wheel i didn't bother bringing a jack or tyre wrench , Ive just been to Eurocarparts and bought (sigh) a jack to go with my 3 at home , copper grease ,tyre wrench a set of brake pads , I've also got a flat screwdriver to push back piston , if it goes wrong I will be a dead man and I'm not talking about the failing brakes , any advice , mostly concerned that piston won't go in with just levered screwdriver , its literally metal to metal at the moment , thanks

Piston should go back relatively easily , don't confuse pads jammed in frame with seized piston, if corrosion has built up between frame and pads that can cause pads to jam/overheat. If you have to force pads out of frame that's likely the problem. Use screwdriver to chip corrosion off frame so new pads fit freely.
If caliper is type with slide pins into frame make sure pins moving freely.
If old pads drop out and piston very very hard to push back you may have caliper problem.
Take cap off master cylinder when attempting to push back piston , be aware fluid level will rise.
V V important do the same work on both sides to maintain even braking or you could have a serious accident.
Very Good luck to you.
You could also ask a local if they know anyone who does their own car work who may help with tools/moral support or decent little garage.

I use a G clamp for pushing piston back in .

silicone gun works too for pushing piston back in

Personally im a wedge a screwdriver in and push piston back in that way

Before i then continue to disassemble i give the caliper a good old wraggin to ensure sliders are nice and free
If icant move caliper in sliders by hand easily
It needs a good clean and lubrication

I do like to wiggle pads back and forth with screwdriver to make sure they can move

If any part fails a simple push test
Its an automatic strip clean inspect rebuild and lubricate

In my time i find more seized sliders and pads vs actual calipers that are stuck solid....

Ziggu

I did it ! Well chuffed with myself, thanks for your help , Ive attached a photo of the old pads , to be honest Ive seen worse ,copper greased back ofpads slider seemed to move freely , I can now continue on my holiday ! Thanks again

Ok , I didnt do it !, for some reason burning smell and smoke is continuing , car is braking without issue , however burning rubber smell on heavy breaking , any ideas , any help would be appreciated , thanks

Neil75 said:

Ok , I didnt do it !, for some reason burning smell and smoke is continuing , car is braking without issue , however burning rubber smell on heavy breaking , any ideas , any help would be appreciated , thanks

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Oh dear,
Check tyre not rubbing on anything , take wheel off and check for any signs of rubbing urgently.
Check suspension spring not broken.
Check brake hose to caliper not rubbing in wheel or tyre.
Good luck.
Report back as it doesn't sound safe .
Jack

Check all tyres just in case smoke / smell traveling from point of origin.
Check for lose plastic wheel arch liners.
Have look in engine bay too for anything touching fan belt.
Is anything melting onto exhaust pipe?

Ok , thanks .Spun tyre whilst on jack,spins freely , not catching and caliper is retracting nicely as stops only when pedal pressed ,hose tucked niceley behind wheel where it should be and spring in one piece , only thing i could see that might be rubbing is there is a metal plate at back of rotor which I've bent away from rotor just in case it's catching , but only seems to be smoking when braking

Neil75 said:

Ok , thanks .Spun tyre whilst on jack,spins freely , not catching and caliper is retracting nicely as stops only when pedal pressed ,hose tucked niceley behind wheel where it should be and spring in one piece , only thing i could see that might be rubbing is there is a metal plate at back of rotor which I've bent away from rotor just in case it's catching , but only seems to be smoking when braking

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Check the other things too.
Do check inside edge of tyre , putting steering on full lock may give you enough view or take wheel off.
Under braking the front of the car dips so the wheel is closer to wheel arch , jacked up the suspension extends so wheel is further away from wheel arch.
The splash guard you bent away from disc would make a screeching noise but no burning rubber smell.

Neil75 said:

Ok , thanks .Spun tyre whilst on jack,spins freely , not catching and caliper is retracting nicely as stops only when pedal pressed ,hose tucked niceley behind wheel where it should be and spring in one piece , only thing i could see that might be rubbing is there is a metal plate at back of rotor which I've bent away from rotor just in case it's catching , but only seems to be smoking when braking

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Smoking sounds to me like you are touching something hot. The exhaust can be held in place with rubber rings.

Could burning oil on top of engine block smell like rubber ?

Neil75 said:

Could burning oil on top of engine block smell like rubber ?

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not going to smell like rubber. Best to burn some oil and check.

Ok , this is the conclusion that I have come to ,it may be nonsense but I'm hoping you can help me if that is the case , brakes all seem good , caliper is not stickibg. So now I'm looking at the fact that when I'm on a steep decline and brake then something is rubbing in the area of the drivers side wheel arch as if sudden braking is pushing something forward , if you look at my photo the flywheel is very close to some sort of rubber stopper, in fact it is within 2mms , is this normal ? I'm now convinced that this is my issue !

That is the crank sensor. It needs to be very close to the pulley, or the signal will be lost or weak, causing misfire, or fail to run. Don't try to adjust it unless absolutely sure it is rubbing.

Oil onto hot engine will smell horrid.

On the Panda, the RH diff seal is above the exhaust. When mine leaked, it dripped onto the exhaust, and smelt, but only noticeable occasionally. No drips on floor, as only leaked when running, and all burnt by exhaust. Evidence is stain on exhaust.

Ok Portland bill , we might be getting somewhere, cars idle is very lumpy , i hear that crank sensor can affect this also so the two may be connected , can crank sensor be adjusted with basic tools in the middle of nowhere with a 300 mine trip close on the horizon ? or should I wait until I get home ?

Neil75 said:

Ok Portland bill , we might be getting somewhere, cars idle is very lumpy , i hear that crank sensor can affect this also so the two may be connected , can crank sensor be adjusted with basic tools in the middle of nowhere with a 300 mine trip close on the horizon ? or should I wait until I get home ?

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I've not got the Punto workshop manual.
The Panda one shows the sensor mounted in a bracket that is part of the crankcase casting, so not adjustable. Do not attempt to adjust this casting by levering against it, it will probably break off, then you are in deep do-do.

If the sensor is too close, we have to understand why. How has it got closer recently? Is it the sensor, or perhaps the pulley at fault. If it is still working, enjoy your holiday and have a look when you get home.

All seems to be ok short term ,im relieved now I know it's not the brakes , ill take it steady on way home , mostly motorways so it seemed to be ok on way up and I'll have a look when I get home , thanks for all the advice

Check the flexible brake hoses. If they have detached from their anchor points through rust (or been fitted incorrectly, there are posts on here where garages have looped them wrongly), they may come into contact with the wheel.
Look for rubbing spots.
I recommend you check this as it's a safety issue.
Your crank sensor looks normal to me (the sensor is fitted on the engine via a bracket, so there's no way the engine can move relative to the sensor)