Technical Timing belt line up

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Technical Timing belt line up

tabu

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Hello,

I'm trying to change the cam belt and head gasket on a mk2 punto 8v, it's been sitting since March so thought I'd tackle it as have a little spare time.

I've added an image to see if I've line up the cam shaft properly any advice is welcome, have been working off Haynes manual.

Thanks
 

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Here's another pic
 

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there is a notch on cam sprocket that needs to align with a notch on head- on your pic, there are few topics with 8v timing stuff

to time bottom end you got two options, at crank sprocket or at gearbox side-much easier and faster- notch on flywheel has to align with biggest tooth on gearbox


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Thanks, for getting back,

Is this image of the bottom pully?
Would there be any specific tools that make both bottom and top pullies line up together?

I have looked at a number of helps, I just wasn't sure if I'd lined it up right.
On mine there doesn't appear to be a notch on the cam pully just an arrow, also in terms of looking at it there's a bit of a skewed perspective so was a bit apprehensive that it's a little imprecise.
 
That image is on the other end of the crank at the clutch bellhousing.
The camshaft notch is easy to line up with the mark on the head. The crank pulley is not so clear. That's why some use the bellhousing marks.
The timing belt usually has two marks on the back. One lines up with the cam pulley mark, the other with the crank pulley mark. One mark is at a tooth the other is in the gap between two teeth.
If all else fails the crank is in the right position when the tooth with the mark on it is the first one fully engaged with the belt.
I'd say quite a few are going around with a tooth out of alignment. The motor will start and run almost normally and you only notice a difference when you try do go for power at high revs.
 
There is loads of photo's on the punto section of the 8v cambelt

Peace of cake :)

You may just need to rotate engine a wee bit more to get line to mark up
The timing marks and PHYSICAL indents or indented lines that align with the notch in the head, and the crank with the casing

Once both have lined up (should do as it was running)
Simply whip old belt off and then back on with new
Perfect time for a water pump too!

Ziggy
 
Thanks for all your help, I'll take a look at some of the how tos and take it from there.
 
Hello been a while since been able to approach doing the head and belt.

Finally got the head off, quick question do the cylinders look healthy?

If so I'll get the head skimmed and hopefully get the car back on it's wheels.

Thanks
 
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Here's the pic
 

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Seen a lot worse. They don't look unhealthy :)
When you're cleaning off the deck pack them with paper towels and run a bit of grease around the edges to trap dirt falling in and check for any gritty stuff that may have gotten sandwiched on the top rings between the piston and the bore. Again a dab of grease on something will help pick it up.
 
Great thanks, I'll get the head done in the week
 
Great that's reassuring, but what of the smoke and jittery clattering sound is that normal or is it out by a lot?

Thanks for your help
 
Great that's reassuring, but what of the smoke and jittery clattering sound is that normal or is it out by a lot?

Thanks for your help

Smoke is likely normal after head gasket job -> likely some oil spillage on hot components, will burn off and stop.

As for clattering sound ... Valves have this metal caps (whatever those are called in English... tappets?) on top of the springs with shims. If you interchange those, you will have a bit of a cluttering noise as valve clearances would be incorrect. Just a guess.
 
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Check that the headgasket is on the right way around. There should be a rectangular tab about 10x20 mm sticking out just by the dipstick.
If fited the wrong way it will prevent oil reaching the top and result in clicky clattery noises.
 
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