Hi,

As part of my annual MOT ordeal (lol) I am doing an O/S track rod end. It was easy enough to get the retainer nut loose; bit of heat, couple of soakings in good old wd40. But bugger me if the track rod end isn't seized hard on the inner tie rod!

Anybody had this happen? My main problem is I can't get any strength into it. Have got a set of plumber's grips (footprints) on the tie rod end near the ball joint, but finding it really hard to get any purchase on the tie rod. I've got some pump grips on it but it just keeps spinning round....

Any suggestions please? I'm off back outside in the cold with my blowtorch hahaha

there is a nut on there, turn it clockwise -right to release pressure from track rod, then it should go off with ease

flisko said:

there is a nut on there, turn it clockwise -right to release pressure from track rod, then it should go off with ease

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He got that off already.

judderbar said:

He got that off already.

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i can still see it on pic

Aye track rod ends can be a pain with rust. Simple job turning into pain in the bum. Failing a good soaking & some heat, you need to get the big guns out in the form of a gas axe, get the area red hot, that will sort things out.

Just for the record, if the inner rod threads are badly corroded, it's likely you'll have to replace as well. a wee tip is to clart the new threads with anti wash off grease, even covering with amalgam tape will help the dreaded rust.

Having another look at your pic' & I don't want to sound rude, but you could be using better tools that are up to the job..Just my thoughts.

Get two decent hammers, preferably lump hammers and hit them both against the track rod end on opposite sides at the same time, Also a bit of heat would help, You need to hold the threaded end from the rack steady so put you decent wrench on that end, if the stilson has decent sharp jaws use that, the ball joint is easy to hold as you have the joint itself to hold. If you have backed of the lock nut a couple of turns, try tightening the end first before you try to loosen, Sometimes it's easier to do that.

jimboy said:

Aye track rod ends can be a pain with rust. Simple job turning into pain in the bum. Failing a good soaking & some heat, you need to get the big guns out in the form of a gas axe, get the area red hot, that will sort things out.

Just for the record, if the inner rod threads are badly corroded, it's likely you'll have to replace as well. a wee tip is to clart the new threads with anti wash off grease, even covering with amalgam tape will help the dreaded rust.

Having another look at your pic' & I don't want to sound rude, but you could be using better tools that are up to the job..Just my thoughts.

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Not at all! The essence of my question is; what tool SHOULD I be using instead of the red handled pump grips in the picture. Obviously I am a novice mechanic with limited tools. But my stepdad has a fairly well stocked garage, and I'm willing to buy tools off ebay/amazon...

If you were doing this, what would you be using?!

The problem is, the inner tie rod is essentially a long thread with no flat edges to get a shifting spanner or plumber's wrench onto?

Locking pliers/mole grips? Some other kind of vice grip?

Appreciate your answer, good tip re the grease and tape idea

digger58 said:

Get two decent hammers, preferably lump hammers and hit them both against the track rod end on opposite sides at the same time, Also a bit of heat would help, You need to hold the threaded end from the rack steady so put you decent wrench on that end, if the stilson has decent sharp jaws use that, the ball joint is easy to hold as you have the joint itself to hold. If you have backed of the lock nut a couple of turns, try tightening the end first before you try to loosen, Sometimes it's easier to do that.

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Thanks for the tips! Will try that with the two hammers.

Had this on mine
Some bastard haf used thread lock, after several adjustments and not been cleaned, it was like rubber balld which jammed it up

I was forced to cut with a 1mm disc a slot in the track rod, just deep enough to release the threads to allow them to turn

I copper greased them back on up plenty on refit so that it shouldnt stick again


Ziggy

You can buy a lock nut that slips over threads for this kind of application. Can't remember where I saw them last. Alternatively, one of those self tightening spanners (gets tighter the more torque you out on it) might help.

It'll only be the first few turns of thread that are rusted solid

http://www.wixroyd.com/en/catalog/work-holding/t-nuts-t-bolts-washers-collar-nuts/quick-nuts/24520

But, I agree, with better hand tools you might get it off. I also inherited a monkey wrench (who doesn't), but as I don't fix tractors it went in the steel recycling. Shifters would Be a poor choice too.

Try some decent mole grips (locking pliers) on the threaded part. My track rod ends have a parallel flat for a normal spanner. Adjust so they are as tight as possible.

flisko said:

i can still see it on pic

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and me


this nut has to be slackened first often needs heat

Skotten84 said:

It was easy enough to get the retainer nut loose; bit of heat, couple of soakings in good old wd40.

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Loose should be sufficient. Being visible should be no problem.

But you could be right he was talking about the ball joint nut.

judderbar said:

Loose should be sufficient. Being visible should be no problem.

But you could be right he was talking about the ball joint nut.

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I was talking about the nut highlighted in the photo above, it only needs 1/2 turn but I gave it a couple to get it out the way of the blowtorch and give more space for the wd40 to find its way in...

Got myself a set of mole grips! Angus vs the TRE round II today after the footie

Give it a good clean with a wire brush, soak, clean, cross fingers

Ditch the WD40 & get some decent Plusgas or similar penetrate spray.

inki said:

Ditch the WD40 & get some decent Plusgas or similar penetrate spray.

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Thanks for the tip! I'm actually using the wd40 brand penetrate spray that came up when I did a search on amazon. Never heard of plusgas; will give it a whirl!

Refit the track rod end loosely in the hub and use the stilsons on the inner tie rod to crack it off, works mint

Thanks for all your help peepz!

Skotten84 said:

Thanks for all your help peepz!

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amazing the difference the right tools can make!